[ShortBtwnHdset]

Damm, that sucks, Drummer Boy... I'm sure Schiit can handle it, but you will be without for a while, as well as expense. I've heard of tubes hot-plating, usually taking down what they're plugged into in the process, but that was with the larger output tubes. Doesn't sound like this was the case, so no idea why or what is wrong. Strange that you didn't blow a fuse first.

 

[Drummer Boy]

Damm, that sucks, Drummer Boy... I'm sure Schiit can handle it

Yes, very thankful for Schiit's customer service. All my interactions have been nothing short of stellar over the years. Also, not too concerned about being without the MJ2, given I have other amping options. Mostly interested in what may have gone wrong. Not sure if they will actually disclose what they fix once they do find out what is responsible for the issue.

 

[ScubaMan2017]

Yes, very thankful for Schiit's customer service. All my interactions have been nothing short of stellar over the years. Also, not too concerned about being without the MJ2, given I have other amping options. Mostly interested in what may have gone wrong. Not sure if they will actually disclose what they fix once they do find out what is responsible for the issue.

That’s an expensive amp. You have the right to ask what had to be fixed.

 

[Drummer Boy]

Update: Got my repaired (warranty) MJ2 back, which was a 10 day turnaround, shipped from MA to CA, repaired, and back to MA. Again, I have only ever received +A Customer Service from Schiit. As for what was wrong with the amp, they replaced the resistor and 200V regulator, as well as the left channel output devices - so yeah, my unit was officially "fried."

 

[billerb1]

Check the Classifieds here for Brimar triple mica square getter 1956 Footscray matched pair.

 

[FFEL]

My mjolnir also just went cold. I suspect that the internal fuse blew but Schiit wants me to try new tubes in the system first. Anyone know if the light on the front turns on IF the tubes are removed? My mjolnir does not light up or anything. Any recommendations on cheap-ish tubes? I looked at the tube rolling thread and most of the ones that I saw were quite expensive.

 

[shafat777]

I have a pair of Brimar CV4033 Footscray 57 Halo getter 12AT7 nos tubes if anyone is interested.

 

[ShortBtwnHdset]

Hey FFEl! Sorry to hear about diffuculties. Getting into the amp to replace fuse isn't very hard, I would check fuses before much anything else. Littlefuse 1.6 amp slow blow 5X20, 115V. As long as you unplug and are careful, shouldn't be a problem, unless your uncomfortable handling high voltage electronics.

As to the cheap tube set, you probably want to steer clear of anything that takes an adapter (extra expense), so stick with 6DJ8 types for now. Do you have a buddy with a used set he can lend? Do you have the solid state tubes/cans the Mjolnir originally came with?

 

[FFEL]

Hey FFEl! Sorry to hear about diffuculties. Getting into the amp to replace fuse isn't very hard, I would check fuses before much anything else. Littlefuse 1.6 amp slow blow 5X20, 115V. As long as you unplug and are careful, shouldn't be a problem, unless your uncomfortable handling high voltage electronics.

As to the cheap tube set, you probably want to steer clear of anything that takes an adapter (extra expense), so stick with 6DJ8 types for now. Do you have a buddy with a used set he can lend? Do you have the solid state tubes/cans the Mjolnir originally came with?

Hey, thanks for the reply! I heard that it voids the warranty if I open it up. I've sadly have only had the mjolnir for a year and a half. Is it worth voiding it?

I managed to find a local seller. I believe I picked up some cheap JJs from him. My Mjolnir did not come with solid state tubes (I think), they look like regular tubes. Solid state tubes/cans are all metal, right?

 

[ShortBtwnHdset]

Hi All! Quick update, I've finally got everything ordered for my stage 2 mods. I'll be redoing the 1000uF w/bypass caps , using better bypasses (V-cap Odams), redoing the 680UF w/bypass caps, using Odams, Adding 22uf Audio Note Kaisei Lytics to bypass the 2200 uF's on the pre-out XLR's, further bypassed by .22 uF Odams.

On the PS rails, I'll be double bypassing the 10,000 uF's on the 19 V rails with FG Nichicon Lytics plus film Wima MKS2s, and the HV rail again with FG lytics and films.

I thought real hard about both an external 6.3V supply, as well as Ideal bridge rectifiers, but holding off on external for now, and most everything available Ideal bridge wise is on larger proto boards, plus ideal bridges don't play well with center tapped transformer secondary's. Would probably work on the heater and HV rail's though. Would have to add some resistance downstream to slightly step down the voltage. The external supply may still make a later appearance if I ever do a stage 3 mod.

I went ahead and bought a beafier, modern 1000VA variac. Won't probably start modding for a week or so.

 

[ShortBtwnHdset]

Do you have a buddy with a used set he can lend?

...Solid state tubes/cans are all metal, right?

Hey, if it voids the warranty, then defintely dont open. ..

Yep, I bought my Mjolnir used so it didn't include them. Were they only an aftermarket purchase?

 

[FFEL]

Hey, if it voids the warranty, then defintely dont open. ..

Yep, I bought my Mjolnir used so it didn't include them. Were they only an aftermarket purchase?

Hey, I guess I'll just cry paying the shipping fee.... lol

I believe the tubes that came with the mjolnir is whatever is listed on their site. They didnt have a brand or anything but they look just like the JJs that I just got. I haven't had a chance to roll tubes since they're so expensive.

 

[shafat777]

If anyone interested, I have listed my cap modded MJ2 for sale in the classified section. I have a Caying HA-6A tube amp coming in a few days so i have decided to part ways with my rare 1 of 4 in existence tube hybrid amp.

 

[billerb1]

Since I moved to the Telefunken G73R's, my former #1 Telefunken ECC801S's (matched pair) are now available in the Classifieds. Great deal.
PM me.

 

[ShortBtwnHdset]

Hi All!

I wanted to give an update. I have started stage 2 mods, system has been down a few weeks, but I'm getting closer to being finished. These V-Cap Odams are a little larger than the low grade film caps that came out, and fitting them is a pain, requiring spacers and careful placement and extended leads.

The Audio Note silver resistors are installed, I believe these are in the tube signal path, there has to be a reason Schiit went with thru hole resistors here instead of SMD.

I decided to leave the large PS caps in, and piggy-back smaller, lower ESR electrolytics at approx 1% of the rail capacitance, then bypass that with film at approx 1% of that. So for the 680 uF 250V caps, 680uF X 2 = 1360uF, used a single 15uF electrolytic and a single .1 uF film (I did check with an ohm-meter, the PS cap pairs seem to be tied together). On the regulated rails (150V and 14V on transformer labeling) I also bypassed the smaller caps after the regulator with film. Decided not to bypass the 19V rails that I assume are the beef behind the mosfets, they have active noise cancelling and I'm not sure if I would mess something up there.

In doing the pre-out balanced output caps , I trimmed the leads too short on an electrolytic and made that cap unusable. I've had to purchase another ,ordered that tonight. I still have to start installing the 3 ODAMS on the bottom back side of the board, once everything else is in place. I'll finally need to widen the holes on the bottom plate and add one small hole.

My biggest area of concern are the small electrolytics on the bottom back of the board. leads on the 8.5V rail are awful close to the case of the cap, may need to redo that one.

Anyway, pics included, Ya'll have a great night.

Edit: sorry guys, must have been tired, cap values are now corrected, and rail voltages.