[busseysound]

Some have asked, so I am just reporting back on the SR Purple fuse now that I have had several full days worth of burn-in, and it's a real game changer fellas. I am actually quite shocked with how it was able to enhance all aspects of the sound, and to a degree that is quite obvious and seriously mind blowing. All aspects of the sound have improved, as in the noise floor is pitch black, PRAT has improved, bass is tighter, deeper, more impactful and textured, mids have more space and seperation, with better detail and realism, the highs are smooth but well extended, and the stage is more holographic with added depth and height in all directions. The way the instruments and vocals are more fully fleshed out and lifelike sounding is stunning. This fuse has some serious voodoo magic inside it.

The performance upgrade provided by this fuse was just as substantial as a good tube roll and perhaps maybe even a bit more, and I will be changing out the fuses in all my components in the near future.

Amazing! I'm wondering if it's possible to change the fuse in an MJ2. Which amp did you try your fuse with?

 

[jonathan c]

Some have asked, so I am just reporting back on the SR Purple fuse now that I have had several full days worth of burn-in, and it's a real game changer fellas. I am actually quite shocked with how it was able to enhance all aspects of the sound, and to a degree that is quite obvious and seriously mind blowing. All aspects of the sound have improved, as in the noise floor is pitch black, PRAT has improved, bass is tighter, deeper, more impactful and textured, mids have more space and seperation, with better detail and realism, the highs are smooth but well extended, and the stage is more holographic with added depth and height in all directions. The way the instruments and vocals are more fully fleshed out and lifelike sounding is stunning. This fuse has some serious voodoo magic inside it.

The performance upgrade provided by this fuse was just as substantial as a good tube roll and perhaps maybe even a bit more, and I will be changing out the fuses in all my components in the near future.

No fuses in ears, though…

 

[Wes S]

Amazing! I'm wondering if it's possible to change the fuse in an MJ2. Which amp did you try your fuse with?

I have only tried it with my RH-5 so far, but I am going to be replacing the one in my Pendant SE next.

I am not sure on the size of the fuse for the MJ2, but I just looked at a picture of the insides of the amp, and the fuse is close to where you connect the power cord, and I imagine it's not hard to change (it was super easy with my RH-5).

 

[G0rt]

I have only tried it with my RH-5 so far, but I am going to be replacing the one in my Pendant SE next.

I am not sure on the size of the fuse for the MJ2, but I just looked at a picture of the insides of the amp, and the fuse is close to where you connect the power cord, and I imagine it's not hard to change.

Do we have any idea why it might make such a difference?

 

[Wes S]

Do we have any idea why it might make such a difference?

I have no idea, but I am not alone in my findings with the new Purple fuse. Synergistic Research puts some kind of "magical" compound inside the fuse, as well as some other "treatments", and the result is mind blowing.

 

[Ah Clem]

What is the value of the fuse in the Mjolnir 2? Which Purple fuse should I purchase?

 

[bcowen]

The 5814 is a killer tube, and I have a couple of the Sylvania Triple Mica Grey Plate Square Getter (My favorite from that family) that I will never get rid of.

Just don't EVER get the Philips ECG version of the 5814 (blue silkscreened text). It's a 'kill your ears' tube, and probably one of the worst sounding tubes I've ever heard. I've never tried an RCA, but the Sylvania is very, very nice.

 

[bcowen]

Hi, I picked up a mjollnir 2 last month. It worked fine for 3 days then the fuse blew. I sent it back to schiit and got it back recently and have had the same thing happen.

I've not used anything balanced -> single ended connectors like mentioned in the manual. Any idea what might be causing the fuse to repeatedly blow in the unit?

Anyone know where can I procure a replacement fuse?

Have you checked your line voltage? And assuming you bought the MJ2 used, have you checked to be sure it is configured for the right voltage (ie: not set up for 230v and being plugged into 115v or vice versa)?

 

[roman410]

What is the value of the fuse in the Mjolnir 2? Which Purple fuse should I purchase?

The size of fuse in MJ2 it is small (5x20mm).

I bought my first MJ2 couple years ago, used and that one was have installed T type (slow blow) fuse of value 1A.
My second Mjolnir 2, what I own right now, come replacement of first one directly from Schiit audio, and this was have installed F type (fast blow) fuse value 2A.

I replaced original Fast blow 2A fuse for SR orange Fast blow 2.5A.

I recommend to you open your MJ2 and check type and value of fuse installed, and order next value up SR purple fuse.

My Mjolnir 2 it is configured for 115v. MJ2 configured for 230v, can have different value of fuse.

 

[G0rt]

I have no idea, but I am not alone in my findings with the new Purple fuse. Synergistic Research puts some kind of "magical" compound inside the fuse, as well as some other "treatments", and the result is mind blowing.

Interesting. Synergistic has been widely panned as snake oil WRT their many products, but nevertheless...

Knowing a little about the sonic impact of tube vs SS rectification, much of which is the effect of the load dependent nonlinear internal series resistance of any vacuum rectifier, which despite any purely theoretical imperfection can clearly sound really GOOD, I wonder if they might be doing something along that line.

Might be interesting to measure the voltage drop across one of those purple urples under load. A 'perfect' fuse would measure near zero, but perfect ain't ever what it used to be.

 

[Wes S]

Interesting. Synergistic has been widely panned as snake oil WRT their many products, but nevertheless...

Knowing a little about the sonic impact of tube vs SS rectification, much of which is the effect of the load dependent nonlinear internal series resistance of any vacuum rectifier, which despite any purely theoretical imperfection can clearly sound really GOOD, I wonder if they might be doing something along that line.

Might be interesting to measure the voltage drop across one of those purple urples under load. A 'perfect' fuse would measure near zero, but perfect ain't ever what it used to be.

I hear ya on the snake oil with SR, and I know they get that a lot. They do have some strange products, but I have also read great stuff about them from very respectable people in the hobby. The way I look at is that SR offers a 30 day no hassle return policy on everything, so there is no loss in trying. I am a simple guy, and all I know is the Purple fuse made everything sound better, and I will not be returning it. In fact, I am saving up for 4 more of them to put in all my other components, and I especially can't wait to hear what one can do in my Pendant SE.

 

[busseysound]

The size of fuse in MJ2 it is small (5x20mm).

I bought my first MJ2 couple years ago, used and that one was have installed T type (slow blow) fuse of value 1A.
My second Mjolnir 2, what I own right now, come replacement of first one directly from Schiit audio, and this was have installed F type (fast blow) fuse value 2A.

I replaced original Fast blow 2A fuse for SR orange Fast blow 2.5A.

I recommend to you open your MJ2 and check type and value of fuse installed, and order next value up SR purple fuse.

My Mjolnir 2 it is configured for 115v. MJ2 configured for 230v, can have different value of fuse.

Took the fuse out of my MJ2. On one end I saw a letter P and 250V. The other side had 1.6A - So I know I should get a 2.0A fuse but not sure if it's slow or fast?

 

[bcowen]

Took the fuse out of my MJ2. On one end I saw a letter P and 250V. The other side had 1.6A - So I know I should get a 2.0A fuse but not sure if it's slow or fast?

There should be a "T" or an "F" marked on one end...may be on the end of the end cap itself. Hard to see at times without a strong light and magnifying glass. Perhaps what you're seeing as a P is actually an F ? "T" is a slo-blow, and "F" is a fast blow.

 

[busseysound]

There should be a "T" or an "F" marked on one end...may be on the end of the end cap itself. Hard to see at times without a strong light and magnifying glass. Perhaps what you're seeing as a P is actually an F ? "T" is a slo-blow, and "F" is a fast blow.

Just opened it back up and saw the "F" with a line under it. I suspect that's it?

 

[busseysound]

Just opened it back up and saw the "F" with a line under it. I suspect that's it?

Actually I did some more research and found the exact fuse in the MJ2. It's a Littelfuse 1.6A 250V 239 series slo blow part # 023901.6HXP (they only make the slo blow in the 239 series looks like).