[cbl117]

I need some help, please.
 
These are a matched pair of 60's Amperex Bugle Boys 6DJ8 certified from Tube Museum.  I purchased second hand, and would like some additional eyes on these to confirm authenticity.  Can someone help me identify the year of these 6DJ8 tubes and also confirm they were made in PHILIPS HEERLEN HOLLAND.  The boxes say Amperex, A North American Philips Company.  Electron Tube.  Green and yellow.  Supposed to be NOS with only a few hours from original buyer.
 
I also noticed one of the posts for the halo getter is tilted on one tube...like the one side's tab never made it in all the way.  I think this is "as is" from the factory because the gettering follows the exact angle of the halo.  Can someone confirm if this is an issue.  I'm reluctant to stick into my Lyr 2 until I know more about these tubes.
 
I should note...both delta signs look like the triangle on the right side....The left side isn't drawn correctly.  My apologies.
 
 

 
 

 

 

[TK16]

Can you take a picture of the getter? Is it round or D shaped?

 

[cbl117]

Both getters are halos (round).  NOT D-getters.
 
Heres a picture of the tilt I'm referring to.  You can see the tab isn't in all the way
 
.

 

[rnros]

GA3 was used in 1960 for the O-getter version. GA2 was the previous D-getter.
Delta 0B is Heerlen 1960 February. Delta 9J is Heerlen 1959 October.

The improper getter post mounting should not be a problem unless it picks up vibration and creates noise. Listen to tube without a signal while increasing the volume to full (high gain). Also try tapping the tube lightly. But realize a high percentage of tubes do have some noise. You would just be looking for something odd or excessive. The post may be crooked but still secure with the typical tack weld. Either way won't harm the amp, it's not part of the circuit, just a support for the getter halo and shield.

 

[cbl117]

GA3 was used in 1960 for the O-getter version. GA2 was the previous D-getter.
Delta 0B is Heerlen 1960 February. Delta 9J is Heerlen 1959 October.

The improper getter post mounting should not be a problem unless it picks up vibration and creates noise. Listen to tube without a signal while increasing the volume to full (high gain). Also try tapping the tube lightly. But realize a high percentage of tubes do have some noise. You would just be looking for something odd or excessive. The post may be crooked but still secure with the typical tack weld. Either way won't harm the amp, it's not part of the circuit, just a support for the getter halo and shield.

Thank you for the information.  Just a few more questions:
 
These are claimed to be NOS.  Do they appear NOS?
Is it typical for the labeling to be different for these tubes?  Meaning the placement of "made in holland" 
The boxes they came in say:  "Amperex, A North American Philips Company"  Are these the original boxes for this time period?
 
Thank you for your help!

 

[MWSVette]

 
Thank you for the information.  Just a few more questions:
 
These are claimed to be NOS.  Do they appear NOS?
Is it typical for the labeling to be different for these tubes?  Meaning the placement of "made in holland" 
The boxes they came in say:  "Amperex, A North American Philips Company"  Are these the original boxes for this time period?
 
Thank you for your help!

As far as NOS you cannot tell by the way by the way they look.  It is how well they measure.
 
The most important information on the tube is the acid etched code.  Any other labling makes little difference as the manufactures sold to various companies that would use their own labels.  Philips is Amperex in North America the tubes were made in Holland and labeled for sale in North America. 

 

[cbl117]

Thanks.  The certification from Tube Museum states they test 13,200/12,600 and 13,200/12,600.
 
This is the box they came in:

 
 
I thought this was time period accurate box.

 
So to confirm, the box is time period accurate since they were labeled for sale in North America.  
 
Quote:

  As far as NOS you cannot tell by the way by the way they look.  It is how well they measure.
 
The most important information on the tube is the acid etched code.  Any other labling makes little difference as the manufactures sold to various companies that would use their own labels.  Philips is Amperex in North America the tubes were made in Holland and labeled for sale in North America. 

 

[MWSVette]

 

I would not concern myself with the boxes too much.  Both that you show are vintage boxes.
 
The most important things if your concern is are the tubes legit are the etched date codes and measurements.  Any seller could easily put tubes in a different box.
 
Of course how they sound to you is most important of all...

 

[BrettMatthews]

My tubes ad has been posted http://www.head-fi.org/t/809682/lots-of-tubes-for-sale
 
Feel free to make some offers, and if someone is interested in the whole lot we can work something out.

 

[TK16]

  Both getters are halos (round).  NOT D-getters.
 
Heres a picture of the tilt I'm referring to.  You can see the tab isn't in all the way
 
.

This pic is much better, I would not be too concerned about it, if it worries you return it, I would check for microphonics, either tap the tube gently or switch from low gain to high gain and see if you hear anything, boxes are useless in determining authenticity unless you got sealed boxes, paint can be the same. Etched factory markings are what to go by. The 1 with the change code and followed by the delta code etc.
 
 
Guys I may have some sets as well to sell, maybe some Reflektors, Tesla, and Amperex 1960 D-getter pair USA, currently pondering if I want to sell and then how much.
Shipping would only be lower 48 states USA only.

 

[cbl117]

  This pic is much better, I would not be too concerned about it, if it worries you return it, I would check for microphonics, either tap the tube gently or switch from low gain to high gain and see if you hear anything, boxes are useless in determining authenticity unless you got sealed boxes, paint can be the same. Etched factory markings are what to go by. The 1 with the change code and followed by the delta code etc.
 
 
Guys I may have some sets as well to sell, maybe some Reflektors, Tesla, and Amperex 1960 D-getter pair USA, currently pondering if I want to sell and then how much.
Shipping would only be lower 48 states USA only.

I put them in last night and they do sound great.  No noise or at least not any more than the stock Canadian tubes from Schiit.  I think the thing I notice the most is more bloom.  It gives a slight 3 dimensional feel to the music, where voices and harmonicas sound like they are in front of you...sort of like you are the musician.  I noticed that with Ryan Adams' Come Pick Me Up.
 
I also noticed, or at least perceived, a very slight reduction in gain.  Meaning I need to turn up the volume very slightly to get the same volume as before.  I wonder if this is because of the bugle boys more airy presentation, which needs additional volume to fill the ears.  Any thoughts on that?
 
I had a matched pair of Philips Miniwatt SQ E88CC Gold Pin, Made in Holland, from the tube depot coming next week.  Any guess as to what the differences will be from these '59/60 BB and the miniwatt SQ?

 

[TK16]

Decided to keep the sets for now.

 

[adrenal]

Hi all, just started tube rolling.
Would like to try E188CC's but cheaper than the earlier Siemens offerings that people laud.
Any opinions on these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-E188CC-7308-PHILIPS-ITT-LORENZ-audio-tubes-NOS-E-188-CC/282042427433?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36539%26meid%3Db081085538d540f3986f3b8dedcdbee4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311610910455&rt=nc

 

[cbl117]

What's the general consensus on powering on/off the Lyr 2?  When I leave my headphones connected, I do notice a low level pop from the drivers when powering on/off.  i hear a pop as the relay engages after 20 seconds on power on, and a pop as I turn the switch off in the back.  The pops are low level, but it has me wondering if I should wait to plug in my headphones ~30 after turn on, and unplug them first before powering off.

 

[MWSVette]

  What's the general consensus on powering on/off the Lyr 2?  When I leave my headphones connected, I do notice a low level pop from the drivers when powering on/off.  i hear a pop as the relay engages after 20 seconds on power on, and a pop as I turn the switch off in the back.  The pops are low level, but it has me wondering if I should wait to plug in my headphones ~30 after turn on, and unplug them first before powering off.

 
 
I have had no problems with the relay pop when the Lyr powers up. I also leave the hp's plugged in so far without any negative consequence.