[MWSVette]

   
Yep, that definitely has the inward curve of a '7', whereas mine is straight like '1'.  Perhaps they skipped a lot of change codes in the intervening year.  Hard to believe they'd go from VR1 to VR7 without skipping some.  Wonder if we could find out (not that it matters).
 
Hope they work out for you 

I'll let you know when I get them...
 
Thanks

 

[gibosi]

   
Yep, that definitely has the inward curve of a '7', whereas mine is straight like '1'.  Perhaps they skipped a lot of change codes in the intervening year.  Hard to believe they'd go from VR1 to VR7 without skipping some.  Wonder if we could find out (not that it matters).

 
VR2 corresponds to about 1960 (VR2 ⊿0H3 from my collection). The tube was first introduced in 1959, so VR1 likely corresponds to 1959 or early 1960. VR5 corresponds to 1965 and 1966 (VR5 *5J and VR5 *6I from my collection). And from above, VR7 corresponds to late 1967.
 
Regarding your "1"....  Perhaps the top of the "7" has worn off? Or perhaps the die didn't make perfect contact during the etching process?
 
edit: typo

 

[ThurstonX]

   
VR2 corresponds to about 1960 (VR2 ⊿0H3 from my collection). The tube was first introduced in 1959, so VR1 likely corresponds to 1959 or early1960. VR5 corresponds to late 1966 (VR5 *6JI from my collection).. And from above, VR7 corresponds to late 1967.
 
Regarding your "1"....  Perhaps the top of the "7" has worn off? Or perhaps the die didn't make perfect contact during the etching process?

 
That's the thing, esp. after looking at the photo @MWSVette posted.  If you download that photo and view it full size, or even zoom in a bit, you can see the curve on the "stem" of the '7'.  Both my tubes show a totally straight stem, as with a '1'.  And they come from the same factory.  I'll post a photo or two, if I can get it to show well enough.  Trust me, I thought about it as a '7' where the top didn't get etched well.
 
When did they start making E188CCs?  FWIW, I agree with you about the change codes and earlier dates.
 

---

 
Here's a photo mine where you can see the change and date codes pretty clearly.
 

 
 
 
Here's an edited version of the photo @MWSVette posted, highlighting the VR code where the '7' is pretty clear.
 

 
 
Best viewed full size.
 
The only other thing I can add is that you are referencing Heerlen-made E188CCs, whereas these were made in France.  Perhaps the change codes are different because they started making them at Suresnes later than in Heerlen.

 

[mikoss]

Yeah the codes aren't in sync between plants. I went through this comparing Hamburg to Heerlen as well.

Hey how do the French tubes compare to the Holland ones? Never read a comparison, but the French ones go for much cheaper. Lots of green Dario's on eBay.

 

[Oskari]

I agree with the out of sync plants. It's entirely plausible that Suresnes made VR1s in mid-60s and VR7s during 70s.

 

[Johnny121]

  Hi. I found pair of Philips SQ with code
first:        7LG delta 2a3
second:   7LG delta 9I5
What year it could be?
Is it worth to buy if I have pairs of Orange Globe and Bugle Boy?

I bought them for 38$ with shipping. I hope that on friday I'll have them and I'll compare them to my Amperex.

 

[Exacoustatowner]

 
I bought them for 38$ with shipping. I hope that on friday I'll have them and I'll compare them to my Amperex.

Good luck! I am really enjoying the tube rolling. I bought a pair of Novib socket savers to make it easier and reduce wear on the sockets.

 

[Rayoki]

So some life events are pushing me to sell my gear for now, If you're interested in picking up some great tubes shoot me a message.
 

1. Rb2013's Reflektor 75 HG's 
2. Telefunken Cca's
3. Made in the US Amperex 7308 (these i bought used)
4. Mullard 6922's

 
These are some of the Best tubes around so let me know.
 
Also I'll be putting up listings for the LCD-2, Lyr 2, and Bifrost Uber.

 

[billerb1]

  So some life events are pushing me to sell my gear for now, If you're interested in picking up some great tubes shoot me a message.
 

1. Rb2013's Reflektor 75 HG's 
2. Telefunken Cca's
3. Made in the US Amperex 7308 (these i bought used)
4. Mullard 6922's

 
These are some of the Best tubes around so let me know.
 
Also I'll be putting up listings for the LCD-2, Lyr 2, and Bifrost Uber.

 
Sorry to hear it.  Hope things go well for you.

 

[Rayoki]

   
Sorry to hear it.  Hope things go well for you.

Appreciate it.

 

[Exacoustatowner]

  So some life events are pushing me to sell my gear for now, If you're interested in picking up some great tubes shoot me a message.
 

1. Rb2013's Reflektor 75 HG's 
2. Telefunken Cca's
3. Made in the US Amperex 7308 (these i bought used)
4. Mullard 6922's

 
These are some of the Best tubes around so let me know.
 
Also I'll be putting up listings for the LCD-2, Lyr 2, and Bifrost Uber.

Oh that is a damn shame! best wishes!

 

[Johnny121]

  Good luck! I am really enjoying the tube rolling. I bought a pair of Novib socket savers to make it easier and reduce wear on the sockets.

Doesn't that socket affect the sound?

 

[MWSVette]

  So some life events are pushing me to sell my gear for now, If you're interested in picking up some great tubes shoot me a message.
 

1. Rb2013's Reflektor 75 HG's 
2. Telefunken Cca's
3. Made in the US Amperex 7308 (these i bought used)
4. Mullard 6922's

 
These are some of the Best tubes around so let me know.
 
Also I'll be putting up listings for the LCD-2, Lyr 2, and Bifrost Uber.

Good luck with your life events and sale...
 
PM'd about the CCa's

 

[Rayoki]

 
Doesn't that socket affect the sound?

I have found no discernible change in sound quality using socket savers. with that said i did buy some tubemonger ones which are sturdy and well built so I imagine it might depend on the quality fo your tube savers.

 

[MWSVette]

 
Doesn't that socket affect the sound?

No change in SQ from the socket savers.