[valiant66]

What about the Cube?

https://www.zuaudio.com/loudspeakers/cube-1a

Thanks for that link! They would be perfect for a small apartment with those Ikea Kallax cabinets.

But rolling off at 80 Hz they would definitely need subs.
.

 

[Yethal]

I'm all for remote controls. For family, I suspect any remote for Yggy will still have the tiny cryptic icons for inputs and still require training, however. They still cannot operate the Roku remote without 'dad technical support'.


Mine sits in a drawer. I could not hear any diff with phase switching, but it's likely just me.

I don't use the BF2 remote either but that's mostly because it sits on my desk. If it were part of my living room setup then I'd probably never touch the front panel of my yggy just like I never touch the front panel of my rag2

 

[golfbravobravo]

Which... depending on how you had it setup, is likely true. Now, if you had the Allo USB solution, I'd be a bit more surprised.

The Pi2AES hat is amazing for the money, though.

But the Allo (and other HATs) are not USB out......

 

[sp33ls]

But the Allo (and other HATs) are not USB out......

This?https://www.allo.com/sparky/usbridge.html

 

[Les Strat]

Except that the goal is switching between digital sources, while a preamp is an analog source switcher and level adjuster. The Schiit co-founders talked about a digital "preamp" at some point, but AFAIK nothing came of it.

When in use ( currently boxed, pending building work) my Yggy is primarily used with one digital source- BNC S/PDIF.

However, when I get a new CD transport, I might be using the Unison USB input (if I buy an Urd) or RCA if I get another make, such as Audiolab.

Either way, I will need to be able to switch inputs on my Yggy.

Unlike a remote volume control ( which I already have) I don’t regard digital input switching via remote as essential, but the symbols on the Yggy for the digital inputs are totally incomprehensible, especially after a few beers.

Fortunately, I doubt that I will be switching digital inputs very often!

 

[golfbravobravo]

This?https://www.allo.com/sparky/usbridge.html

Sure, but the context was RPi and that isn't for a Pi is it?

It's also a bit baffling to me why anyone would choose USB as the output (but assuming they sell a bunch, clearly they do) when there are better alternatives.

 

[sp33ls]

Sure, but the context was RPi and that isn't for a Pi is it?

It's also a bit baffling to me why anyone would choose USB as the output (but assuming they sell a bunch, clearly they do) when there are better alternatives.

Technically for the Sparky, which is just a different SBC than the RPi.

I agree, USB is not ideal. Which is why I use the AES input on the Yggy with my Pi2AES. Great performance.

 

[Alcophone]

It's also a bit baffling to me why anyone would choose USB as the output (but assuming they sell a bunch, clearly they do) when there are better alternatives.

USB is the only asynchronous digital audio format, i.e. the only way for the DAC to control the clock used for the connection, instead of the source.

Mike prefers Unison USB over other inputs, as far as I know.

An increasing number of DACs are USB only.

A lot of DDCs also have only a USB input, like the Singxer ones.

 

[Dynasty62]

Does anyone know if the Freya S can be opened to change the fuse? Mine arrived with the fuse unseated and rattling around inside (can see this through the vent holes).

Do I have to RMA?

 

[Zer0.p0int.Zer0]

Edit

That’s what I thought at first too, but I don’t think it’s rattling inside the amp. Check the buttons on the front. Mine are really loose and rattle when you shake it. They are way looser than the buttons on any other model I have.

 

[sp33ls]

USB is the only asynchronous digital audio format, i.e. the only way for the DAC to control the clock used for the connection, instead of the source.

Mike prefers Unison USB over other inputs, as far as I know.

An increasing number of DACs are USB only.

A lot of DDCs also have only a USB input, like the Singxer ones.

This topic can get pretty complicated and could lead to a a whole can of worms...

With a high quality DAC like the Yggy and Unison USB, I would say you're splitting hairs either way. Technically, optical is what most engineers recommend because it doesn't introduce any chance of RFI -- while it can have a bit more jitter, but this is something that is cleaned up and solved for anyways.

But because most optical transmitters tend to only go up to 24/96, I tend to use balanced AES. If my Pi2AES offered USB out, I'd probably try it with Unison.

 

[rkw]

I'm curious to see if I can hear differences when I play with the phase invert function this weekend.

It depends on the album (even each track), the amount of low frequencies and whether the phase got inverted during recording or production. There was a discussion previously. See this and some of the posts that follow afterwards:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...most-improbable-start-up.701900/post-15386152

 

[Dynasty62]

That’s what I thought at first too, but I don’t think it’s rattling inside the amp. Check the buttons on the front. Mine are really loose and rattle when you shake it. They are way looser than the buttons on any other model I have.

Apologies, visual inspection revealed it is the fuse rattling around. However, I don't see an obvious way to remove the cover. There aren't screws in the corners like other Schiit products.

I remember reading that some versions of Freya could not have their covers opened even to change the fuse. I am not sure if the Freya S was one of them.

I may have to just RMA and wait another week for delivery. Seriously bummed.

Update: RMA'ed (return/exchange). Pity that changing a fuse requires sending the unit back, though I have no idea what damage the fuse caused while rattling around inside the device through cross-country shipping, or what kind of a strong impact the unit sustained as to knock a fuse out of its receptacle despite the Freya being fairly securely packed from the factory. Props to Schiit for offering the resolution quickly. I just hope a faster shipping method is used for my replacement.

 

[Paladin79]

Apologies, visual inspection revealed it is the fuse rattling around. However, I dont see an obvious way to remove the cover. There aren't screws in the corners like other Schiit products.

I remember reading that some versions of Freya could not have their covers opened even to change the fuse. I am not sure if the Freya S was one of them.

I may have to just RMA and wait another week for delivery.

Covers can be removed but one has to be careful in re-attaching the cover because of the front buttons and LED. You are probably better off sending it back

 

[sp33ls]

LiM arrived today. Gonna give it a few days to run in. But first impressions are very nice. Not as "in your face" as OG. Thanks for convincing Jason to try the 16-bit version, @Baldr