I'd buy that as is. Who needs paint to gunk things up?!Mjolnir 3 first article metal is in.
This is unanodized/unpainted/unfinished fit check stuff.
Now it's straight into production.
You want it anodized - unless we’re about to talk about the merits of corrosion in class A operation and its effects on sound quality.
With those 2 and FV you'll never need to heat your listening space again!
Can see nice chamfering at all top openings.Mjolnir 3 first article metal is in.
This is unanodized/unpainted/unfinished fit check stuff.
Now it's straight into production.
If you're wanting best sound go for the separate dac, and if you can swing just a little higher grab a modi multibit 2. A surprisingly great little dac.
Was this a 'If you're gonna buy an amp in June, then I'm going to CA in July" thing, or an "I'm gonna buy an amp in June before the wife blows through the $$$ in July" thing?
A curmudgeon like myself. Well done.For the vast majority of today's poopular "fArtists" I would say any hole they leave upon their demise can be easily filled with a shovel.
Yes. I am olde and honest. I care not much for the majority of today's "musical" fare. Yes, there are a few talented folk our there and I wish them well. The rest? I wish them that which rhymes with "well".I am such a meanie.
If others disagree that is fine with me. I just do not think much of the stuff that young people and people that must want to seem "young" (loudly) listen to but never seem to actually purchase, at least when I ax them if they buy hard copies. I have bought 8-Tracks, Cassettes, Records (78s/45s/33s), CDs, DCCs, MiniDiscs, Downloads, etc. I do not support with my money or my ears what I do not enjoy, especially so when I consider it vile in content.
Tina Turner was a gorgeous Goddess.
ORT
How old is the Jotunheim? The only other consideration is if it’s out of warranty. Getting the new Multibit card installed would re-activate a 2 year warranty. I would personally wait for the new unison Multibit card that is coming out soon. But the modi Multibit 2 would be better due to more inputs than the DAC card alone.
That's a perfectly valid approach to figuring these things out.
Here's my ritual for when I listen to a new (to me) amp:
1) Plug in the headphones that I like
2) Open my reference tracks playlist in Roon, which is just an eclectic bunch of exceptionally well recorded and mixed music across my usual genres, each track with its own attributes that I know like the back of my hand and that I can listen for to assess the strengths and weaknesses of a given piece of gear
3) Start playing the tracks and fiddle with the amp's volume knob and all its relevant switches until a setting is found that pleases my picky-A-F ears
And no, I'm not posting this to have the thread degrade into an argument about spread sheets and numbers vs. listening. We've been there. We've done that. And nothing of value ever really came from it. No debate can and should be had over this, as each approach is both utterly flawed and perfectly valid in its own way.
They just lead to different outcomes.
Your approach is the more scientific one, if you will. It allows you to learn something about the interaction between different pieces of gear and transducers, and you will probably end up with a result that is the "correct" one from the perspective of an engineer or physicist, including all that peace of mind that a lot of people draw from knowing that they've done it just the way they're "supposed to" from an engineering point of view.
Meanwhile, and more often than not, I learn nothing of real (i.e. scientific/technical) value from my approach. Well, nothing other than what switches need to go where to make things sound good to my ears. But that only ever benefits me, really, seldom anybody else.
Even worse, my approach has also lead to results that make Jason (as the designer of the amps in question) roll his eyes at me in the "best" of cases, and outright cringe in some of the more … uhm … egregious ones. Like when I mentioned a few months ago that I get this truly magnificent sounding result from using a Piety with my 13 ohm Æon Noirs. Or when I mentioned years ago that I have a pair of (supposedly) 60 ohm planars that sound especially magnificent when plugged into my Valhalla 2.
But then again — and while I know that nothing could be further from the truth — I sometimes think that Jason only added the impedance multiplier to Folkvangr just so that I would finally shut up for once about how much I enjoy plugging my low-impedance planars into everything that comes across my desk, but especially into amps that were never designed to drive them.
Which one of those spaces is for the @ArmchairPhilosopher switch? Or is that to be located on the back, next to the power switch?Mjolnir 3 first article metal is in.
This is unanodized/unpainted/unfinished fit check stuff.
Now it's straight into production.
That's why I never made it to Director. Couldn't keep my mouth shut. And, "because I said so" never cut it for me.Don't worry I am!But the massive geek in me wants to know the why. Just like in one of our company meetings a couple months ago, the CEO made a statement about a change in procedure. I asked "Why?"
I have the original multi-bit card in my OG Jotunheim. It sounds spectacular. The new card includes Unison USB, but of course, that won't do you a ton of good without another Unison USB source. AFAIK, the only Unison USB source is the (new and pending) Urd CD transport / USB hub.
https://www.schiit.com/about/news/unison-usb-for-99-modi-3
