Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Jan 1, 2015 at 1:05 PM Post #4,621 of 151,557
  Simple method to tell if "burn-in" is real:  Purchase two identical amps (or headphones or speakers or whatever.)  Give both unopened boxes to a friend.  Instruct the friend to take them home and place one unopened box in a closet, and to open the other one and use it or "burn it in" by whatever method you choose, but that your friend must do this without telling you which one they "burn in."  After the prescribed time, your friend should unbox both units and place them side by side.  Have a second friend go get them both without knowing which is which and bring them to your house.  Your friend must now set them both up in as identical a method as possible while you are out of the room.  (this is where A/B switches can come in handy.)  Now listen to identical tracks on them both.,  If the "burn in" process made any difference you should be able to immediately determine by ear which is which.  If not, then, well...

 
 
  Yeah, you could do this, but it's not a statistically valid data set with an N of 1 to perform a 1-proportion test. 
 

 
 
I have a pair of Nuforce HA-200 amps that can be run as both single ended and as monoblocks. The first one I had for a month and left on pretty much all the time. At first I thought I heard a difference over time, but couldn't tell for sure. Then when I got the second one I hooked them up as monoblocks (ie: one for each channel) and played some mono recordings so the output would be identical on each side. Did I hear any difference? Nope, nothing.
 
I can pick out difference between amps, dacs, even filters sometimes, but perhaps the supposed subtleties of solid state burn-in are beyond me or weren't exhibited on my system.
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 1:12 PM Post #4,622 of 151,557
 
-I guess this is where we'll have to agree to disagree.
 
Once noise and distortion are below audible levels (Which they are, by orders of magnitude, in most competently designed equipment), an amp is an amp is an amp and a DAC is a DAC is a DAC. 

 
 
No point in upgrading equipment then, is there?  
wink_face.gif

 
Jan 1, 2015 at 1:19 PM Post #4,623 of 151,557
I'm also a new G/M user, upgraded from the uB/A2 stack.  Been using the G/M for a couple weeks, on & off.  They make my LCD-X sound better.  If, over time, the SQ continues to improve, I think that's just an unexpected benefit.  You know, lagniappe.
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 2:14 PM Post #4,625 of 151,557
  You are correct about my simple test lacking statistical validity, but so too does a single user proclaiming how much "burn in" helped his Whammo Widget Mark 3.  As both an engineer and a person who has done statistically valid group testing, the idea that electronics (especially solid state electronics) "improve with age and use" is a myth, one perpetuated by reported subjective perceptions by people who desperately want to believe it.  Your perceptions may indeed change with time, but that does not mean the gear has.

Interesting thing, this burn-in -
 
  1. it always results in the amp/preamp/DAC sounding better
  2. it is always an even number of hours -- for example, 400 hours, not 374.5
  3. and if a dealer claims that a certain number of hours of burn-in are needed for a piece of equipment to sound its best, the time needed for a reasonable person to do the burn-in almost always exceeds the number of days that the dealer allows for returns...
 
That said, my newest laptop really came into its own after 200 hours of reading posts on head-fi...the colors popped, it surfs faster and I wept when I saw how it updates Excel calculations. Granted, I was supposed to be doing work and got fired, but it was worth it! 
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Jan 1, 2015 at 2:26 PM Post #4,626 of 151,557
Electrical designs are about more than noise and distortion. Frequency response is important to make sure that it's wide enough for human hearing, but one thing you might not think about is what it actually looks like. We assume something relatively flat, but the reality is that there will always be some "not flatness" in the response. This means that some frequencies will be louder than others. Will you notice it? That's a bit harder to say, but you can always add more components to get this to be "more flat".
 
-Sure there is more to it than noise and distortion, and I'll be the first to admit that my response was brief to the point of inaccuracy, and then some. (Which is pretty impressive, seeing as it was a pretty long-winded post... :)
 
Anyway - to elaborate a little - if an amplifier is designed with sensible noise and distortion figures in mind, and the passband is as wide or even slightly wider than our hearing range, and if it can deliver enough power into the inductive load that is the loudspeaker to give a sensible dynamic range while still keeping the distortion figures below audible levels - then an amp is an amp is an amp.
 
Also, do keep in mind that any inaccuracies in the amplifier's phase/frequency response will be dwarfed by those of the loudspeaker, which will be at least an order of magnitude larger.
 
I'm just trying to point out that--objectively--there are always tweaks that your electrical designers can make to improve the transparency of the equipment, and yes, they can be as neurotic about electrical perfection as much as high end audiophiles are about audible perfection.

And just to be clear: I still agree that past a certain point, you want to look at additional features in better audio gear rather than chasing those audio unicorns.

 
-Everything can be made _better_; however, once some piece of kit reproduces sound with specs exceeding our (rather limited!) abilities of perception, there's not really much to be gained by improving further on any parameters. To put it simply - there is no such thing as 'more inaudible'.
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 2:30 PM Post #4,627 of 151,557
   
You bet, so the next time you feel like upgrading send your money to me and don't bother. 
very_evil_smiley.gif

 
Thank you for your kind offer.
I was thinking about buying a kilobuck amp or DAC, where should I send the money?
wink_face.gif
 
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 2:39 PM Post #4,628 of 151,557
  Simple method to tell if "burn-in" is real:  Purchase two identical amps (or headphones or speakers or whatever.)  Give both unopened boxes to a friend.  Instruct the friend to take them home and place one unopened box in a closet, and to open the other one and use it or "burn it in" by whatever method you choose, but that your friend must do this without telling you which one they "burn in."  After the prescribed time, your friend should unbox both units and place them side by side.  Have a second friend go get them both without knowing which is which and bring them to your house.  Your friend must now set them both up in as identical a method as possible while you are out of the room.  (this is where A/B switches can come in handy.)  Now listen to identical tracks on them both.,  If the "burn in" process made any difference you should be able to immediately determine by ear which is which.  If not, then, well...

Not bad.  Tyll did almost this with a couple pairs of AKG702's (I think). Ran one for weeks or months, set the other aside, ran his test suite on both, and listened.  He believed he uncovered very slight differences that point to burn in being a true phenomenon.  Or not.  It was not blind or double blind though still a pretty objective test.
 
 
Yeah, you could do this, but it's not a statistically valid data set with an N of 1 to perform a 1-proportion test. 
 
Or, one could rely on the experience on the community of real-life users here who are sharing their experiences honestly for the benefit of the community-at-large. So, when I posted that my rev 1 Bifrost took about 400 hours to fully burn-in and stop improving in it's sound quality, you can rest assured that those comments were shared honestly and in good faith and without any agenda. Other folks can take that for whatever they think it is worth, and use that intelligence to make a more informed decision about whether a product represents a value proposition for them or not. If it does, great. If not, they can move on to something else. Horses for courses.
 
That's one of the real benefits of a community like this; folks can share their experiences and sensibilities! It's all good!  
redface.gif
 

I generally stop reading posts once they hit comments along the lines of 100, 400, months of burn in.  Falls into the "whatever" category to me.  If you believe it, good for you.  Edit - this sounds a bit harsh.  I don't mean to sound like a dick (though I often do).  I just don't buy the hundreds of hours stories.  I've tried a couple of noted "hundreds of hours of burn in required" products in the past, and didn't really notice changes past the 5 to 20 hours of mental conditioning in any case.  And yes, subjective and vague.  It's been several years, and the further past age 50 I get, the shorter my memory gets….
 
  You are correct about my simple test lacking statistical validity, but so too does a single user proclaiming how much "burn in" helped his Whammo Widget Mark 3.  As both an engineer and a person who has done statistically valid group testing, the idea that electronics (especially solid state electronics) "improve with age and use" is a myth, one perpetuated by reported subjective perceptions by people who desperately want to believe it.  Your perceptions may indeed change with time, but that does not mean the gear has.

As one might expect from my just previous comment, I'm with Ableza on this one.  I *think* I've experienced burn in on a couple of pairs of headphones, most recently the Alpha Primes.  It could well be mental burn in, though I believe "burn in" or more likely mechanical run in is a reasonable phenomenon to expect from a headphone, as it is in great part a mechanical system with moving parts, flex, wear and tolerances, etc.  Or not….  It could easily all be mental burn in, and I have no data to support either on those couple of experiences.
 
   
 
No point in upgrading equipment then, is there?  
wink_face.gif

I disagree with the amp is an amp is an amp, ac is a dac is a dac logic.  In a perfectly designed state, yes.  Once physical reality sets in, different parts, designs, etc. will (should?) make a difference.  I think the differences have been measured, different levels of distortion, different harmonics prominence of distortion, other "stuff".
 
   
You bet, so the next time you feel like upgrading send your money to me and don't bother. 
very_evil_smiley.gif

You are rotten!  Now, if this approach works, please let me know….
wink.gif
  EDIT - I just read the intervening post.  It looks like this is a non-starter among generally reasonable folk.
 
My qualifications - Mechanical engineer, decent ear, logical guy, analytical guy, blowhard who likes new, shiny things even if they don't sound any better.  Sometimes I like them well enough that I convince myself they sound better.  Sometimes they actually do sound better….
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 2:45 PM Post #4,629 of 151,557
  Okay, we can agree to disagree!
wink.gif
 A DAC is not a DAC, and an amp is most definitely not an amp; in fact I've found power amps often make the biggest difference in systems. Noise and distortion were responses that the stereo magazines like Audio and Stereo Review of the 60s, 70s, and early 80s were measuring and effectively saying that all amps sound the same, which was clearly not the case. The Crown DC300 measured beautifully and sounded like crap; a tube-based Conrad-Johnson Premier 5 didn't measure as well, and sounds wonderful. Actually, even a Dyna Stereo 70 sounds better than a Crown DC300. 

 
-In that case they probably weren't measuring the right things.
 
I'll stand by my statement that competently designed amplifiers (operating into loads for which they are suitable; ie. do not use a relatively high output impedance OTL tube amp to drive a loudspeaker with 2 ohms impedance, to take it to extremes) all sound more or less the same IF (and this is an important if!) that is the stated design goal.
 
There's no doubt one can tailor the characteristics of an amp to obtain, for instance, a 'house' sound for the press and us audiophiles to fret about - but any competently designed amp driven within its design limits should sound more or less the same as any other competently designed amp driven within its design limits. 
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 2:58 PM Post #4,631 of 151,557
   
-In that case they probably weren't measuring the right things.
 
I'll stand by my statement that competently designed amplifiers (operating into loads for which they are suitable; ie. do not use a relatively high output impedance OTL tube amp to drive a loudspeaker with 2 ohms impedance, to take it to extremes) all sound more or less the same IF (and this is an important if!) that is the stated design goal.
 
There's no doubt one can tailor the characteristics of an amp to obtain, for instance, a 'house' sound for the press and us audiophiles to fret about - but any competently designed amp driven within its design limits should sound more or less the same as any other competently designed amp driven within its design limits. 

Agreed.  Well stated.  I do find differences, even when this is the supposed stated design goal.  I think the issue is humans getting in the way.  The design goal itself ends up being subjective when different humans do the designing and listening.  The premise, though, is solid.
 
   
-Depends. (There are lots of (valid; don't get me wrong - I am as guilty as the next guy!) reasons to upgrade one's kit beside sound quality alone..)

Also agreed.  I LOVE shiny things for sure!
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 3:21 PM Post #4,632 of 151,557
Your first assertion is refuted by the behavior of most audiophiles. They constantly 'upgrade' their gear. Presumably, this is the result of "burn-in" making their gear sound less good over time. I suggest burn-in making gear sound better is the exception.

(As well, there is likely to be a biased selection mechanism in what people report. People more frequently report their (apparently) successful 'experiments' than the ones that result in worse sound. Unhappily, scientific journals tend to operate a similar bias for 'positive' findings, thus distorting attempts to evaluate confirmation and disconfirmation of various theories - but that's another story).

I think the even number of hours is likely to be people rounding the figure.

Congrats on your laptop. I fear I'm experiencing the opposite effect wrt hundreds of hours of head-fi posts :wink:

Interesting thing, this burn-in -


  • [*] it always results in the amp/preamp/DAC sounding better
    [*] it is always an even number of hours -- for example, 400 hours, not 374.5
  • and if a dealer claims that a certain number of hours of burn-in are needed for a piece of equipment to sound its best, the time needed for a reasonable person to do the burn-in almost always exceeds the number of days that the dealer allows for returns...

That said, my newest laptop really came into its own after 200 hours of reading posts on head-fi...the colors popped, it surfs faster and I wept when I saw how it updates Excel calculations. Granted, I was supposed to be doing work and got fired, but it was worth it! :p
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 3:51 PM Post #4,633 of 151,557
If you have an example of someone stating that their gear sounded worse after several hundred hours of burn-in please point me to it since I've never seen anyone say that.

As for the reason people upgrade, I don't think it has anything to do with something sounding worse because someone used it (provided they used it as designed), people often just want to try different gear in their quest for the "absolute sound". However, if you can point to examples of people upgrading because their gear's sound got worse through use (tube lifespans excepted), please do.
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 4:34 PM Post #4,634 of 151,557
^ I think you missed the tongue-in-cheek aspect of my post. You also entirely missed the serious points (e.g. "biased seletion mechamism") made. Never mind.

Btw, you didn't point out examples for your absolutist statements either.

This discussion is finished.
 
Jan 1, 2015 at 4:48 PM Post #4,635 of 151,557
 
Still need more hours on it....check back with us in three or four months if you decide to keep it and let us know what you find. I've been down this "burn-in" road a number of times, it's not fun, but the results at the end are worth it. 


Ok, so thank you everyone for your tips, I really do appreciate each and every opinion put forth. My original post was just letting Jason know my experiences with Schiit's website in response to his saying in the last chapter that he knew it was a bit difficult for people new to Schiit to pick products from the expanded line, but you all have given me fantastic insights and advice that I will take to heart. :)
 
I decided to keep the Gungnir/Mjolnir and will use and enjoy it for the next 6-12 months (per purrin's suggestion). Since I'm accustomed to its sound now, I can use it is as a reference system to explore areas of audio that I have yet to explore, like the mysterious and controversial fields of power conditioning, cables, and perhaps even other headphones. There's no substitute for personal experience, and not buying Ragnarok right now will give me a bit of funds wiggle-room to try out other gear in the chain. Knowing about those other pieces of the chain (including whether or not I even need them) will make my Yggdrasil/Ragnarok experience even better when the time comes.
 
Per many suggestions here, I have ordered a Tripplite Isobar as an inexpensive experiment in power, and I may explore other things like power cables or isolation transformers later. I may also try various cables. I've done enough reading and lurking to understand all of the controversy behind both of these subjects and I'm not interested in debating them; it's worth a few bucks to just try them out for myself and let my ears be the judge. :) The journey, etc.
 
After 6-12 months of enjoying the Gungnir/Mjolnir and experimenting with other parts of the chain, I will almost certainly upgrade to Yggdrasil/Ragnarok and either sell or repurpose the Gungnir/Mjolnir. Upgrading both together will give me a bigger and perhaps more satisfying "jump," and I'll be better prepared from my experimentation to intelligently choose the rest of my chain (and to appreciate the subtleties of Ygg/Rag). 
 
This was all probably more info than anyone wanted, but in case anyone else was contemplating the same conundrum with similar gear, that's my thought process after reading the fine advice given by all. :)
 

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