[JohnnyCanuck]

"percussive maintenance"

As a retired navy man myself I have often seen this maintenance procedure employed. Never knew it had its own name though



JC

 

[golfbravobravo]

"Percussive maintenance."

So good, Imma gonna steal that phrase. Thanks for the update regarding, er, updates.

As a retired navy man myself I have often seen this maintenance procedure employed. Never knew it had its own name though

JC

With a tool known as a "Birmingham Screwdriver" in England.

 

[CAPT Deadpool]

As a retired navy man myself I have often seen this maintenance procedure employed. Never knew it had its own name though



JC

Anyone who has operated an M-16 or M4 should remember SPORTS for clearing jams and malfunctions: Slap (the rifle/percussive maintenance), Pull (Slide/Charging Handle), Observe (Chamber/Action), Release (Slide Handle), Tap (the forward assist [lacking in original models and added to address the M-16s propensity to jam]/ more percussive maintenance), Squeeze (trigger, hopefully your efforts are rewarded with a bang and not a click).

Edit: The newer models are much much less prone to jamming than Mike and other Vietnam Vets likely remember. I trained with Vietnam era M16A1s in ROTC (truly jam prone), but once in service always found the current issue weapons to be reliable if you kept them cleaned properly.

 

[Jheal]

With a tool known as a "Birmingham Screwdriver" in England.

In non-PC times it also was referred to as Irish easing oil.

 

[JohnnyCanuck]

Anyone who has operated an M-16 or M4 should remember SPORTS for clearing jams and malfunctions: Slap (the rifle/percussive maintenance), Pull (Slide/Charging Handle), Observe (Chamber/Action), Release (Slide Handle), Tap (the forward assist [lacking in original models and added to address the M-16s propensity to jam]/ more percussive maintenance), Squeeze (trigger, hopefully your efforts are rewarded with a bang and not a click).

Edit: The newer models are much much less prone to jamming than Mike and other Vietnam Vets likely remember. I trained with Vietnam era M16A1s in ROTC (truly jam prone), but once in service always found the current issue weapons to be reliable if you kept them cleaned properly.

Our military here in the Great White North used the FN C1. Twice the weight, half the fun.

JC

 

[Rensek]

So my wife gave me an Emotiva A-100 as a present today, and it's a pretty cool piece of gear. Way better then the class D stuff I've heard recently. But now I have a problem. My Elacs are black, my senns look black, and the A-100 is black.

I need a black Modi 3 to complete the set.

I haven't seen any black modi 3s yet. Has anyone had experience painting their silver Schiit cases?

Would @Jason Stoddard care to share what kind of black paint they use when they paint their cases black?

If someone has good insight, a modi 3 b stock might find it's way to a new home.

 

[JLoud]

I have an Emotiva A-100 as well. Very nice piece of kit. Especially for the price. The headphone out is way better than other speaker amps I have heard.

 

[ashirin]

So my wife gave me an Emotiva A-100 as a present today, and it's a pretty cool piece of gear. Way better then the class D stuff I've heard recently. But now I have a problem. My Elacs are black, my senns look black, and the A-100 is black.

I need a black Modi 3 to complete the set.

I haven't seen any black modi 3s yet. Has anyone had experience painting their silver Schiit cases?

Would @Jason Stoddard care to share what kind of black paint they use when they paint their cases black?

If someone has good insight, a modi 3 b stock might find it's way to a new home.

This isn't exactly what you asked for, but right now, Schiit has closeout Modi 2 Ubers in black for only $69 on their b-stock page, which seems like a pretty sweet deal and an easy solution to your problem.

 

[mp29k]

So my wife gave me an Emotiva A-100 as a present today, and it's a pretty cool piece of gear. Way better then the class D stuff I've heard recently. But now I have a problem. My Elacs are black, my senns look black, and the A-100 is black.

I need a black Modi 3 to complete the set.

I haven't seen any black modi 3s yet. Has anyone had experience painting their silver Schiit cases?

Would @Jason Stoddard care to share what kind of black paint they use when they paint their cases black?

If someone has good insight, a modi 3 b stock might find it's way to a new home.

Or grab a black Bifrost 4490. I saw them up a day or so ago.

 

[Rensek]

This isn't exactly what you asked for, but right now, Schiit has closeout Modi 2 Ubers in black for only $69 on their b-stock page, which seems like a pretty sweet deal and an easy solution to your problem.

Thanks, but I'm quite enamored with modi 3, I love the toggle switch in front. Im hoping mimby gets upgraded to a toggle switch someday. I own both mimby and modi 3. And I prefer that toggle switch.

 

[ashirin]

Thanks, but I'm quite enamored with modi 3, I love the toggle switch in front. Im hoping mimby gets upgraded to a toggle switch someday. I own both mimby and modi 3. And I prefer that toggle switch.

I actually completely agree. I also love the Modi 3 and I think the toggle switch on the front is definitely better than the button implementation on Mimby and Modi 2 Uber. Modi 3 also has the awesome USB power feature. I just thought I'd mention the Modi 2 though because it gets you a brand-new black Schiit DAC for $70, and some people would also probably consider the linear power supply an upgrade over Modi 3.

Painting a Modi 3 sounds like a fun project though, even if you don't quite get the same powder-coated finish that I've seen Schiit black gear come with. In any case, enjoy your Emotiva A-100! I've always wanted one of those to play around with but never had a specific enough need for it to justify the cost.

EDIT: looking through the A-100 product page, I noticed that you can use internal jumpers to allow the amp to put it's full power into the headphone output. According to the specs, that's almost Ragnarok levels of power for headphones! Quality is of course an entirely different matter... but that's still pretty cool.

 

[garbulky]

Hey all,

Interesting discussions about obsolescence. We have a FormLabs Form2 3D printer, which was recently replaced by the Form3. When this happened, there were the usual questions about support for the older product. And FormLabs was forthright, saying they would support the Form2 until 2023 at least.

Cue the howling. "Oh my gawd, are you kidding, only four more years for a 3D printer I spent $3500 on? That's completely mercenary/unfair/horrible and you are the worst people on the planet!"

And yeah, in some ways, I get it. If I'd just bought a Form2 and was a very, very light user of it, and I was unaware of what usually happens when companies say "at least," and didn't have any experience with 3rd party support, I might be miffed.

But we bought ours to use it. It's been a year and a half, and it's already getting full of spilled resin, the sensors aren't connecting to the tank all the time anymore and need to be cleaned and re-set regularly, and I know that by the time 2023 rolls around, we're gonna have an obsolete printer half-full of partially cured resin and limping along on percussive maintenance and a prayer. And even then, I bet there will be resins, tanks, and other stuff available well past 2023, and there will probably be a company or two who make parts for it in 2033, given the 50K user base.

"So what does this have to do with audio?" you might ask.

Good question. Here it is, bald as Kojak: even Schiit can't guarantee infinite upgrades indefinitely.

Yep. I'm saying it. At some point in the future, we won't be able to continue upgrading our platforms. The platforms themselves will have to change. Hell, we've already made some huge and unplanned changes to platforms to ensure upgradability, like when Bifrost Multibit came out. Bifrost Multibit, in many cases, required a new motherboard, as well as an analog board. This is a big, big change.

Why? Simply because it's impossible to predict everything that might come up in the future. You cannot create an infinitely protean system, at least without infinite time and infinite cost. You will bump up against the constraints of the system as designed.

Want an example? Well, back when I had an agency, it was common for companies to come to us and say something like, "I want a website that can accommodate all of our growth and changes for the next decade."

In 2001.

Yeah. Smart companies run away from such requests, because they know this is impossible. You don't know what the company has planned for the next decade, because they probably don't know. And even if you did, you don't know what the future would hold. In 2001, the idea of embedding was completely alien. The financial crisis was 7 years away. You. Had. No. Idea.

Want a more topical example? Our DACs. We designed them for the upgrades we could foresee. Did we design them for all upgrades possible, forever? Of course not. Hell, the back chassis have fixed holes. We couldn't add another input without chassis changes. This isn't impossible, but this isn't ideal. And heck, do we know every single permutation of DSP and DAC we might come up with? No. Progress might break our own assumptions.

"Oh holy hell, this is Jason saying there will be no more upgrades!" someone will cry.

In short: no. We will continue upgrading DACs as meaningful changes can be made. We've made a few changes we don't consider meaningful. At least not in the "buy another $500 upgrade" level meaningful. But when there are major changes, of course we will offer upgrades, as long as it is possible to do so. We're going to be especially careful to protect your investment in Yggdrasil, because this is an expensive DAC (the bleating of the car-price DAC makers notwithstanding).

However, we're going to be more careful as to the timing of upgrades, to make sure you don't have to deal with them all the time, and we're going to be trying to make sure the majority of upgrades don't require sending the DAC back to us. These are both reasonable requests, that we have screwed up on in the past. We get it, and we're going to make it better.

I hope this helps clear a few things up on upgrades, in the absence of a complete chapter. Things have been pretty busy, with multiple prototypes running around here, so I've been distracted. We're very close on the release of Ragnarok 2 and four other products (which will make more sense as a group when it happens), so please bear with me...there's lots more of my blather coming.

All the best,
Jason

I guess I don't see the downside of offering a bunch of upgrades back to back. People don't want it; don't get it.

 

[Mike-WI]

So my wife gave me an Emotiva A-100 as a present today, and it's a pretty cool piece of gear. Way better then the class D stuff I've heard recently. But now I have a problem. My Elacs are black, my senns look black, and the A-100 is black.

I need a black Modi 3 to complete the set.

I haven't seen any black modi 3s yet. Has anyone had experience painting their silver Schiit cases?

Would @Jason Stoddard care to share what kind of black paint they use when they paint their cases black?

If someone has good insight, a modi 3 b stock might find it's way to a new home.

Well they have a Modi 2 uber in black b-stock for $69
https://www.schiit.com/b-stocks

 

[Rensek]

I actually completely agree. I also love the Modi 3 and I think the toggle switch on the front is definitely better than the button implementation on Mimby and Modi 2 Uber. Modi 3 also has the awesome USB power feature. I just thought I'd mention the Modi 2 though because it gets you a brand-new black Schiit DAC for $70, and some people would also probably consider the linear power supply an upgrade over Modi 3.

Painting a Modi 3 sounds like a fun project though, even if you don't quite get the same powder-coated finish that I've seen Schiit black gear come with. In any case, enjoy your Emotiva A-100! I've always wanted one of those to play around with but never had a specific enough need for it to justify the cost.

EDIT: looking through the A-100 product page, I noticed that you can use internal jumpers to allow the amp to put it's full power into the headphone output. According to the specs, that's almost Ragnarok levels of power for headphones! Quality is of course an entirely different matter... but that's still pretty cool.

Aye, it will be interesting to see what the internet gives me for painting aluminum. I think the folks who use the jumpers to bypass the resistors on that headphone amp are crazy. I barely get the knob to 9 on the amp, and it's really loud. Magni 3 in high gain is the same way.

The USB power supply on modi 3 doesn't bother me at all. Jason said an iPhone charger measured best, and I have a couple sitting around so that's what I use.

Not that I can hear a difference between stock and the apple charger, but I have one, so might as well use it.

 

[Gazny]

Looking to upgrade my modi as I need another dac and just got new cans(isine10's b-stock) any paths that I should consider. I am currently looking at a BiMby. Anyone know if the Gimby has the same boot up time? or can I just leave both these on?