[FrivolsListener]

I agree but I was taught to love both colors:

Hail to the Orange, Hail to the Blue
Hail Alma Mater, Ever so true
We love no other, So let our motto be
Victory, Illinois Varsity!

Blech. Blue LEDs are wonderful as long as they aren't underneath a proper vacuum tube.

 

[Ableza]

re: heat. I suspect that the touch temps being reported are a little exaggerated because people are not used to them. Most PCBs and the components used on them are rated to between 70 and 100C. For those who do not speak Celsius, that is 158 to 212 F. The temperature of the device is always a little higher than the surface of the heat sink, so if the outside of your Schiit product is "too warm to hold," but is not burning you, that means it is likely less than 60C or 140F and the devices inside should be safe. If it was hotter than that you'd be reaching for first aid. The outside of my Mjolnir 2 after it's been on for a while is about 42C or about 108F. The volume control is less than that.

 

[FrivolsListener]

If you want a blue glow to the tube you get a gas tube voltage regulator. They're kinda pretty.

 

[Ableza]

Blech. Blue LEDs are wonderful as long as they aren't underneath a proper vacuum tube.

I don't know, they look nice in my Butler...

 

[FrivolsListener]

re: heat. I suspect that the touch temps being reported are a little exaggerated because people are not used to them. Most PCBs and the components used on them are rated to between 70 and 100C. For those who do not speak Celsius, that is 158 to 212 F. The temperature of the device is always a little higher than the surface of the heat sink, so if the outside of your Schiit product is "too warm to hold," but is not burning you, that means it is likely less than 60C or 140F. If it was hotter than that you'd be reaching for first aid. The outside of my Mjolnir 2 after it's been on for a while is about 42C or about 108F. The volume control is less than that.

This is definitely more than a Mjolnir 2 -- I've played with them repeatedly at RMAF. I'd say your 140 F temperature is about right. That's my water heater setting and I take *very hot* showers. (My skin is deep red when I shower. I'm probably doin' it wrong...) I would guess the temp of the case is just shy of 140 F and the knob is maybe 5 F below.

 

[the finisher]

I'm pretty sure Jason and Mike would sell out for a billion. Then they could start another company, maybe called "Assless Audio."

Without them it's just no schiit.

OMG HEAT IS THE ENEMY OF ELECTRONICS ARGH ARGH GONNA DIE HOLY CRAP!

I like my Schiit warm, I leave it on to keep it so.

 

[Maishar]

So ~45C is fine for my Gungnir?
(Although with an AC Infinity fan it’s much much lower)

 

[Jason Stoddard]

This is definitely more than a Mjolnir 2 -- I've played with them repeatedly at RMAF. I'd say your 140 F temperature is about right. That's my water heater setting and I take *very hot* showers. (My skin is deep red when I shower. I'm probably doin' it wrong...) I would guess the temp of the case is just shy of 140 F and the knob is maybe 5 F below.

Very doubtful it's that high, unless your house is 85 degrees F. Check it with an IR thermometer.

 

[Jason Stoddard]

Guilty, but nothing to do with the intartubes. More like having frail electronics that only work when they are stone cold, and worry about, well, frankly, everything from hot semiconductor junctions to thermal stress on PC boards. (The former from working with solar panels, where ambient temperature change can add or derate a panel by 30%, and the latter from having to repair cracked solder connections on the final amps on RF transmitter boards.)

*shrug*

If it gets that hot, it gets that hot.

For other readers, if I'm understanding the application of Continuity to a next-gen Asgard, it would run Class A up to 1 watt, something like the Asgard 2 does now, but would run in this new mode. I would expect it to still shed 40 watts of heat while sitting idle, but it wouldn't scale up linearly for power output of more than 1 watt.

As I've said, we wouldn't put a 5-year warranty on it if we didn't think it would last 10 years.

Asgards are ridiculously, ridiculously reliable.

 

[madwolfa]

Guilty, but nothing to do with the intartubes. More like having frail electronics that only work when they are stone cold, and worry about, well, frankly, everything from hot semiconductor junctions to thermal stress on PC boards.

But with Asgard, it's not the electronics or a PC board that is getting hot, it's the case that is getting hot, radiating all the heat away from the output devices (instead of trapping it inside), which is exactly how it was designed.

 

[FLTWS]

The case is the heat sink in all the Schiit boxes I own. I expect the warmth, even at the volume knob.

 

[winders]

As long as the manufacturer didn't desecrate the warm orange-red glow of the tubes with blue LEDs lighting them from underneath.

I hate blue LEDs! Yes, natural tube lighting is the way to go. I remember my dad showing me the insides of our B&W TV with it powered on and the lights all off at night. That was a beautiful site. I remember going to the local Alpha Beta grocery store and checking tubes on the tube test by the entrance. New tubes were just sitting there in boxes. Too bad many of you don't have memories like that!

P.S. Forever is a long time....

 

[FrivolsListener]

But with Asgard, it's not the electronics or a PC board that is getting hot, it's the case that is getting hot, radiating all the heat away from the output devices (instead of trapping it inside), which is exactly how it was designed.

In my case, it was from working on obsolete commercial GE Mastr II radios used as repeaters. They can handle the duty cycle. They have a ginormous heat sink, but they do also have short leads to the final amps. That is where the cracks happened.

Ironically, it may be that in this case, it was just the wild temp swings of being in an unheated building on a mountain top (-20 F in winter is not unusual) to having to dissipate heat of some guy who will not shut up running the (FM) transmitter at full power (there is no other power level with FM).

In any event, the leads broke off the PC board. Which was warmed incidentally by the final amp.

 

[madwolfa]

Blue lights must die.

 

[JohnnyCanuck]

For other readers, if I'm understanding the application of Continuity to a next-gen Asgard, it would run Class A up to 1 watt, something like the Asgard 2 does now, but would run in this new mode. I would expect it to still shed 40 watts of heat while sitting idle, but it wouldn't scale up linearly for power output of more than 1 watt.

But don't forget -- the output devices will be on a much larger heat sink.

JC