[rlow]

Well, unless the Octal LISST get done a bit early. These are the same as the regular LISST, but fit the octal sockets in a Saga and Freya. This should provide a solution for those of you who don't want to burn tubes, but don't want empty holes on the top of their preamps.

Is there another reason other than filling the holes that the LISST provide? Do you essentially get the extra gain like in the regular Freya tube mode, and the ability to drive longer cable runs in Saga tube mode? Is that basically it vs. passive or JFET?

 

[Alcophone]

Is there another reason other than filling the holes that the LISST provide? Do you essentially get the extra gain like in the regular Freya tube mode, and the ability to drive longer cable runs in Saga tube mode? Is that basically it vs. passive or JFET?

You should also get true balanced output from single ended inputs without having to use actual tubes this way.

 

[33na3rd]

[QUOTE

That sounds like a picture should be posted of the new gear/stand...

Welcome to my mess! I even included one of our cats for Pietro!


Saga gets her own glamour shot. I put an adhesive backed Rhinestone on the volume control so that I could see it better in the dark.


These are my first components from Schiit. Something tells me that it won't be my last!

 

[rlow]

Welcome to my mess! I even included one of our cats for Pietro!


Saga gets her own glamour shot. I put an adhesive backed Rhinestone on the volume control so that I could see it better in the dark.


These are my first components from Schiit. Something tells me that it won't be my last!

Wow you've got a pretty good array of audio business going on there, including a really funky looking turntable on the right. Also what speakers are those?

Nice idea on the rhinestone. I think Schiit should incorporate more rhinestones standard.

 

[rlow]

You should also get true balanced output from single ended inputs without having to use actual tubes this way.

Hmm, do you know this is true or just an assumption because it does this with regular tubes?

 

[Alcophone]

Hmm, do you know this is true or just an assumption because it does this with regular tubes?

I'm assuming so, since Freya doesn't know what tubes got inserted. Still could be wrong, though.

 

[rlow]

I'm assuming so, since Freya doesn't know what tubes got inserted. Still could be wrong, though.

My suggestion about the tube gain was a guess too. Hopefully someone who knows their Schiit will set us straight

 

[33na3rd]

Wow you've got a pretty good array of audio business going on there, including a really funky looking turntable on the right. Also what speakers are those?

Nice idea on the rhinestone. I think Schiit should incorporate more rhinestones standard.

Thank you!

The turntable is a Michell Gyro SE. They've been making it & improving it for quite awhile. Old tables are able to be brought up to date with the newer parts.

The speakers are Audio Physic Virgo 2's. (88.5dB 3.7ohms) I bought them new 20 years ago. Last November I rebuilt the crossovers with advice from Joachim Gerhard, the original designer. He was very gracious and patient with me. When the old crossovers needed repair, I thought about getting new speakers. Your ATC's were on the list, they are lovely speakers! It only cost $150 to rebuild the crossovers myself, so that's what I did!

I also put a couple of silver rhinestones on just the up/down buttons of the remote. It makes it much easier for me to make small volume adjustments with the remote, and you can do it by feel without having to look at the remote. I never thought I'd be hanging out at the craft store, picking out rhinestones for my Schiit!

 

[rlow]

Thank you!

The turntable is a Michell Gyro SE. They've been making it & improving it for quite awhile. Old tables are able to be brought up to date with the newer parts.

The speakers are Audio Physic Virgo 2's. (88.5dB 3.7ohms) I bought them new 20 years ago. Last November I rebuilt the crossovers with advice from Joachim Gerhard, the original designer. He was very gracious and patient with me. When the old crossovers needed repair, I thought about getting new speakers. Your ATC's were on the list, they are lovely speakers! It only cost $150 to rebuild the crossovers myself, so that's what I did!

I also put a couple of silver rhinestones on just the up/down buttons of the remote. It makes it much easier for me to make small volume adjustments with the remote, and you can do it by feel without having to look at the remote. I never thought I'd be hanging out at the craft store, picking out rhinestones for my Schiit!

You're a regular rhinestone cowboy my friend!

I have heard very good things about the Audio Physic speakers. I may audition a pair some day myself, although I do love the ATCs for sure.

 

[Alcophone]

You're a regular rhinestone cowboy my friend!

I have heard very good things about the Audio Physic speakers. I may audition a pair some day myself, although I do love the ATCs for sure.

Have you had a chance to compare yours to the SCM11?

 

[HumanFly]

This is my first post after reading HeadFi for a while now.
Glad to be here!

I have the same issue as you. In the end i abandoned the hifiberry card and i run the files from the Rpi3B (via USB) into the Yggy.
I was very happy when the Volumio software recognised the Yggy.

Previously i had the Pi paired with the Hifiberry Digi+ Pro with BNC into the DAC.
Whenever i touch the externals of the usb port on the rpi (no insertion of usb), the DAC clicks.

I managed to reduce the clicks after opening the transformer jumper and running the OS exclusively on the SD card. But it still clicks, just less.
(It seems to click more with the FLAC files and the OS file co-located on the same card)

No matter how much buffer and buffer time i set, the DAC's relay clicks while playing music midway.

I suspect the issue has to do with either 1. The Galvanic isolation and / or 2. The clock from the hifiberry with Yggy's Master clock resulting in the temporary loss of signal locking.

With the USB connection, its perfect!

Hi there and welcome!

So you get no USB-noises at all over gen-5?
I`m not amazed gen-5 works but if it would make pi-usb sound perfect it works really, really well.
You have no other mods? Just the pi?

 

[T1YggCrackPi]

Hi there and welcome!

So you get no USB-noises at all over gen-5?
I`m not amazed gen-5 works but if it would make pi-usb sound perfect it works really, really well.
You have no other mods? Just the pi?

Thanks for the greeting!

Straight USB out from RPi3 with nothing in between to the DAC. No mods. No usb noise with my Gen5. Its good so far.

 

[Locutus73]

@Jason Stoddard. My suggestion on the home theater bypass would be: Add a switch of some sort to select how each input acts. Is could be dip switches placed on the back or bottom like mani, so one couldn't inadvertently hit the switch plugging in a cable, that would signal the processor as to how to treat that input. Freya would ship with all the switched in say the variable position where the volume knob controls it. If one wanted a bypass they would flip the switch for the input they wanted to use as a home theater bypass to say fixed. Where when one goes to that input the processor would set the mode to passive and set the volume to max, then when someone switched off that input it would default back to whatever mode and volume level it was before. This would make it so any input could be a bypass and one could not accidentally switch to another with the volume up or put an input into bypass by hitting it plugging in a cord. As you would have to change it to bypass when you set it up it is less likely to accidentally put an input bypass on something that shouldn't, and you don't have to go through a menu of lights to change it if you no longer want a bypass. This would mean a board and case revision in addition to firmware instead of being just a firmware update.

Instead of a dip switch solution that implies changes to the hardware, since the preamps can be configured (via max volume+passive mode) to HT bypass, I was thinking to a simple solution: a user configurable default mode for each input with a very simple user interface.

• Standard mode: you click the input selection button and you go to INPUT 1 with its default volume+mode, click and INPUT 2 with its default settings… click and INPUT 3 with its default settings.
• Program mode: you click the input selection button and you go to INPUT 1 with its default volume+mode, click and INPUT 2 with its default settings… push and hold, INPUT 3 is selected with its current default settings and, keeping the button pressed, you change the volume and/or the operating mode, you release the button and the current settings are saved as the new default ones for INPUT 3.

So you can have INPUT 1 with volume 0%+tube as default setting, INPUT 2 with volume 30%+JFET Buffer and INPUT 3 as HT bypass with volume 100%+passive.
This solution doesn’t involve apparent changes to the hardware, at least to the external chassis/input-output/user interface; if the electronics can support this (@Jason Stoddard knows it), it could be implemented on current hardware with a new firmware that could become the default one for new batches of preamps and could be flashed on units that go back to the factory for repairs.

Locutus73

 

[Locutus73]

The new Guides should be up this evening or tomorrow. I just need to do the photos.

Choosing a DAC/Amp
Choosing a Headamp
Choosing a DAC
Choosing Amps & Preamps

What about a stackability guide with hints to devices that can be stacked having the same form factor and/or cannot be stacked (e.g. for heating issues)?

Locutus73

 

[rlow]

Have you had a chance to compare yours to the SCM11?

I did yes. For me they were just a bit too lightweight for a rock speaker (great for jazz). Even though the SCM19s only show a couple of HZ lower in frequency response in the specs, they go a fair bit deeper in reality, and they sound more relaxed and natural. The 11s are speed demons with the most taut bass I've personally ever heard, just not as deep or impactful enough for my musical tastes. Also, I believe this contributed to a feeling of a smaller soundstage in the 11s compared to the 19s, which bugged me coming from a speaker that had an even bigger soundstage than both of them (Wharfedale Jade 3), although the 19s are pretty close.