Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
Oct 5, 2017 at 5:07 PM Post #25,336 of 152,215
I was watching a docu on vinyl resurgence and saw this serious expert.
Just look at the settings on his EQ.
His speakers are real bad or he is deaf.

Or it's a relic not actually plugged in or hooked up to any system and setup that way to generate comments. He pulled you right in!
 
Oct 5, 2017 at 5:15 PM Post #25,337 of 152,215
...
Would prefer to have a way to check the output voltage on both Gungnir and on Freya. Also to check if both pins on the XLR are life.

I just have a moment, so at the risk of redundancy, what is stopping you?
  • Make certain your DMM or scope has high enough input impedance to avoid loading the output
  • Understand if your DMM or scope gives you accurate RMS and peak reading for a sinusoidal signal at any frequency, or just for power-line frequencies. My (older, inexpensive) DMM only claims to provide accurate RMS and peak for 50/60Hz, while my (newer, but also inexpensive) scope's manual says it is accurate for any frequency within its measurement range.
  • Back off the shell and any insulating sleeve from the XLR female that you are plugging into the Gungnir/Freya output. Neutrik XLRs do this by unscrewing the rear boot (which loosens the cable clamp, both can then slide backward), Switchcraft XLRs have a set screw than has to be run down. I think other brands tend to fall into one of these patterns.
  • Once the outer shell and any insulator are pushed back onto the cable, clip leads from your DMM or scope should reach to the solder side of the XLR's connectors
  • Download or create some 0dBFS test tone at audio frequencies of your choice, play and measure. Repeat on different channels and different places in the chain
  • Close up any XLRs you opened for measurement when you are done
If you don't want to temporarily open up one side of your normal interconnect, you could purchase just an XLR female (if out of circuit measurement is sufficient); or one male XLR, one female XLR, and two short pieces of any reasonable (inexpensive) balanced cable, and make a short patch cable with a parallel, unterminated stub of cable coming out of the female for measurement purposes. Those things are so easy to solder than even I can manage it (with much-cursed bifocals and hands that aren't as steady as in my youth). Make sure not to short the unterminated cable stub ends to each other or anything else conductive.

Unless I'm missing something, I don't see why you can't do this to satisfy yourself about levels before hauling gear anywhere for testing or repair.
 
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Oct 5, 2017 at 5:19 PM Post #25,338 of 152,215
Or it's a relic not actually plugged in or hooked up to any system and setup that way to generate comments. He pulled you right in!
You could be right.
I had the same idea.
Even thinking it maybe was for his led lights.
Oh Winders... You're so wise. Thanks for reading my post.
 
Oct 5, 2017 at 7:27 PM Post #25,339 of 152,215
I run 10 kW monoblocks... anything to avoid clipping!
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88195_DC-Audio-10.0k.html

Look how massive this is!


Wow ... times have changed! When I was into car audio, my car was barley larger than the previously mentioned Trabant ... I don't think this would have fit! I was already suffering from overheating issues with the 1KWs!!! This was back in the 90's though, and Class D wasn't prolific like it is now.
 
Oct 5, 2017 at 7:48 PM Post #25,340 of 152,215
Famous last words...
Beans shall be spilled anytime soon now
tagazou.gif
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 12:01 AM Post #25,341 of 152,215
It's easier to fry speakers with too little power than too much power, it's the distortion components from an overloaded amp that destroys drivers.

Easier, yes. But too much power can still blow speakers. Distortion from underpowered amps tends to fry tweeters, but I've torn the voice coil out of a woofer before by hitting a speaker with too much power. Expensive to get reconed...
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 12:18 AM Post #25,342 of 152,215
I was watching a docu on vinyl resurgence and saw this serious expert.
Just look at the settings on his EQ.
His speakers are real bad or he is deaf.

Fidel Castrate's long lost love child? Looks like he might be wearing a limited edition Angela Lansbury T-Shirt too! Sweeeeeet!

ORT
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 1:09 AM Post #25,343 of 152,215
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I want to ask anyway, cause I hope I'm wrong.

Will the Loki work with Jotunheim?
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 1:20 AM Post #25,344 of 152,215
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I want to ask anyway, cause I hope I'm wrong.

Will the Loki work with Jotunheim?
With an external single-ended source, or external, single-ended output, yes. With the internal DAC module and headphones... probably not. Also not sure how useful it will be on a raw phono signal.
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 2:30 AM Post #25,345 of 152,215
What is the problem with amps running hot? Before I had dual Vidars, I used a Nakamichi Stasis PA-5. When I originally got it, it sounded somewhat blah. I did some research, changed two caps, and it still sounded somewhat blah. Then, I was browsing the forums and saw a post by Mr. Nelson Pass, who designed the darn thing.

His recommendation to somebody else complaining about a boring sounding amp was to adjust the bias up until the outermost edge of the heatsink on each side would reach 50 degree celsius during continuos use. He even recommended using a fan, from what I remember.

I went and bought the quietest laptop cooling pad I could find, placed the amp on it, adjusted the bias until it was at 50*C. At that temperature, it was so hot that it was unpleasant to leave your hand on the heatsinks for a longer period of time. It greatly improved the sound of the amplifier, especially at lower volumes.

So how hot is too hot? Did anyone ever bother to measure the temperature of their vidars?
 
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Oct 6, 2017 at 2:32 AM Post #25,346 of 152,215
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I want to ask anyway, cause I hope I'm wrong.

Will the Loki work with Jotunheim?

SOURCE → analogue out → LOKIJOT → PHONES
or
SOURCES → digital/analogue JOT → analogue out → LOKI → AMP → SPEAKERS

But because there's no tape loop, you can't use Loki with the internal DAC and headphones.
.
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 3:37 AM Post #25,347 of 152,215
All hail The Hipster Grand Master....

I was watching a docu on vinyl resurgence and saw this serious expert.
Just look at the settings on his EQ.
His speakers are real bad or he is deaf.

 
Oct 6, 2017 at 5:42 AM Post #25,348 of 152,215
I'm pretty sure I know the answer but I want to ask anyway, cause I hope I'm wrong.

Will the Loki work with Jotunheim?

That's exactly how I'm using my Loki presently and am enjoying the combo on the HD800.
 
Oct 6, 2017 at 8:22 AM Post #25,349 of 152,215
Wow ... times have changed! When I was into car audio, my car was barley larger than the previously mentioned Trabant ... I don't think this would have fit! I was already suffering from overheating issues with the 1KWs!!! This was back in the 90's though, and Class D wasn't prolific like it is now.

I thought running two 15s each with their own 1KW at 4 Ohm class AB amp in my vehicle was insane. I suppose an amp like that is targeted to be used with something like MTX's 22" Jackhammer subwoofer.

Rockford Fosgate makes an amp that can put out 7.5KW x 2 at 4 Ohm!
 

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