[UntilThen]

Don't hear too much arguments. Whatever sounds good to you, use it.

 

[winders]

IBut I've heard many arguments that coaxial is better than toslink... Not sure if that is the case.

That is the case.

 

[Mike Foley]

It must be frustrating to have the Tannoys, and not be able to listen to them. I'd be itching to buy a cheapo power amp just to get them run in before Vidars arrive.
Great looking system. I love the look of the equipment table.

Now my Tannoys are in. Freya's prepped. Bimby on all the time. Couldn't wait for the Vidars!

Now my Tannoys are in. Freya's prepped. Bimby on all the time. Couldn't wait for the Vidars!

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

That is the case.

Mike did once give a list as I remember. (so any mistake is mine)
In order of quality:
1. EAS/EBU
2. SPDIF Coax
3. SPDIF Toslink
4. USB

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

So I was just minding my own business listening to music when....
The Ragnarok gave 3 loud clicks, gave some smoke signals trough the top and stopped.
Only thing it does now is flashing the 3 gain leds.
That's kind of fast for a 3 month old amp.
Somebody any idea if I did something wrong?

edit: A few pointers.
1. I did not change a thing in my cables or connections.
2. After unplugging all cables it does not come out of the protection mode so it has to be in the rag itself.
edit2:
Constanza never comes near the amp.
edit3:
I could cry.
edit4:
I did power cycle the rag.

 

[sam6550a]

For me this is a very simple, relatively inexpensive solution. USB by-pass function of https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product..._sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Sounds great with Bimby.

Most motherboards have an on-board SPDIF output that appears physically as a 2 to 5 pin header on the board. Find a SPDIF expansion port bracket for the motherboard that fits the header, and you have SPDIF coax output for almost $200 less than the Asus card. After all, you are not using any of the expensive stuff on the sound card, you depend upon the Schiit box for the D to A magic.

 

[Blue Warper]

Mike did once give a list as I remember. (so any mistake is mine)
In order of quality:
1. EAS/EBU
2. SPDIF Coax
3. SPDIF Toslink
4. USB

According to Mike (I think we're referring to the same post of his), you should add BNC right after AES/EBU and before SPDIF Coax.

 

[Blue Warper]

So I was just minding my own business listening to music when....
The Ragnarok gave 3 loud clicks, gave some smoke signals trough the top and stopped.
Only thing it does now is flashing the 3 gain leds.
That's kind of fast for a 3 month old amp.
Somebody any idea if I did something wrong?

edit: A few pointers.
1. I did not change a thing in my cables or connections.
2. After unplugging all cables it does not come out of the protection mode so it has to be in the rag itself.
edit2:
Constanza never comes near the amp.
edit3:
I could cry.

Sorry for that...
Please excuse me for the probably obvious question (just trying to be a bit helpful), but did you power cycle your Ragnarok after that failure?

 

[sam6550a]

So I was just minding my own business listening to music when....
The Ragnarok gave 3 loud clicks, gave some smoke signals trough the top and stopped.
Only thing it does now is flashing the 3 gain leds.
That's kind of fast for a 3 month old amp.
Somebody any idea if I did something wrong?

edit: A few pointers.
1. I did not change a thing in my cables or connections.
2. After unplugging all cables it does not come out of the protection mode so it has to be in the rag itself.
edit2:
Constanza never comes near the amp.
edit3:
I could cry.

Sounds like some small variation of infant mortality--with most solid state devices, if they do not fail in the first 3 to 6 moths of use, they will not fail for a long, long time into the future. However, this documented observation is also subject to Edsel Murphy's Law---if anything can go wrong, it will. Thankfully, Schiit has a good warranty policy. Sorry for your loss.

 

[Aaron Shi]

It must be frustrating to have the Tannoys, and not be able to listen to them. I'd be itching to buy a cheapo power amp just to get them run in before Vidars arrive.
Great looking system. I love the look of the equipment table.

Sorry Crutchfield, I just bought a Marantz power amp for 800 from you and will return it once the Vidars arrive...

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

Sorry for that...
Please excuse me for the probably obvious question (just trying to be a bit helpful), but did you power cycle your Ragnarok after that failure?

Oh yes.
Also without any cables (save the power cord)

 

[Pietro Cozzi Tinin]

Sounds like some small variation of infant mortality--with most solid state devices, if they do not fail in the first 3 to 6 moths of use, they will not fail for a long, long time into the future. However, this documented observation is also subject to Edsel Murphy's Law---if anything can go wrong, it will. Thankfully, Schiit has a good warranty policy. Sorry for your loss.

I know they have a good warranty policy and I will not give up on it because it sounds sooo goood.
I hope Schiit Europe does too and the problem is solvable fast.
Now I have no speaker audio at all.
Hope it will not be weeks or months. Don't know if they have to send it to the US.
Maybe there's a demo model for me to use.
So Jason... if you read this..

 

[Blue Warper]

Oh yes.
Also without any cables (save the power cord)

Yes, I see. It was my only idea, sorry... I know Rag is a very complicated beast and perhaps you've just hit an unexpected condition in its microprocessor-managed operations. I only have a 'humble' (but beloved) Asgard 2...
I think Schiit will soon fix your issue, whatever it is.

Good luck!

 

[sam6550a]

According to Mike (I think we're referring to the same post of his), you should add BNC right after AES/EBU and before SPDIF Coax.

SPDIF coax can utilize a BNC or an RCA plug---it is still SPDIF coax signaling.

 

[Letmebefrank]

I have Asus P9X79 WS with optical s/pdif out. Hmm, looks like that can also work.
But I've heard many arguments that coaxial is better than toslink... Not sure if that is the case.

Your motherboard does have a S/PDIF header on the motherboard, not including the optical out on the back. The internal header with that board I linked you in my last post will output Coax S/PDIF.

See this older pic;