[roncruiser]

Bare in mind that the Humble comparisons are made for XO applications, not as coupling caps, so the results may vary.

Thanks man. I appreciate your knowledge.

What do you mean by XO application?
---cross over--- figured it out!

Still there are so many AC coupling caps out there to experiment with!

 

[qwin49]

Thanks man. I appreciate your knowledge.

What do you mean by XO application?
---cross over--- figured it out!

Still there are so many AC coupling caps out there to experiment with!

Absolutely, plenty of choice.
It was the most I'd ever spent on caps, but decided I didn't want to second guess what might or might not work, so went with what was reported as a fairly major improvement. It was a fit once and forget scenario.
What swung it for me, was the designer at the company that made my phono stage (Longdog Audio or LDA) said he had carried out this mod on a Freya+ for another customer. When I ordered my Phono stage, which was built to order, he asked about the rest of my set up and my Freya+ came to his attention. He said the ODAM caps were a very worthwhile upgrade that I should consider doing myself, as he knew I had fair DIY skills. I trust his judgement more than most, so went with it and was not disappointed.
Some of the Mundorf caps have proportions that might suit. Even Auricap XO are to large a diameter, but being short in length, you might be able to stagger their positions, so not side by side. It's a gamble, but I'm sure others would be interested in what you find fits and how they sound.

 

[belgiangenius]

Bare in mind that the Humble comparisons are made for XO applications, not as coupling caps, so the results may vary.

True. I've had experience with a few of the capacitors on his list and, from my experience, I'd say his ratings are spot on.

 

[qwin49]

True. I've had experience with a few of the capacitors on his list and, from my experience, I'd say his ratings are spot on.

Yep, me to, I've used 5 or 6 brands in passive XO's and tended to agree with his rating. Thinking about it, its more like 9 types.

 

[theeclone]

Voshkod rockets! Taking for a test drive in the freya n gain stage.

 

[PoMarantz]

O.K. Fellas......wish me luck..... I've got my V-Cap Capacitors, 1mm PTFE Tubing and Vents.... This should be FUN!!!!
Warranty-Void....HERE WE COME!!!!!

 

[mmmadog]

So we have gone from tube rolling to capacitor rolling??

 

[sahmen]

So we have gone from tube rolling to capacitor rolling??

Not to forget resister-rolling, as described on this Schiit Freya DIY modding site:

*The second modification is to replace the 8 pieces of 2W Dale metal film resistors with 2W Audio Note Tantalum types. There are 4 pieces of 22k resistors in the differential amplifier´s anode connection and 4 pieces of 47k resistor in the cathode follower´s ground connection. These tantalum resistors are also not cheap but their impact is easily heard. There are even two other even more expensive resistor types from Audio Note available. Still, they need some significant time to break-in and results right after installation are quite poor. The sound difference from the Audio Note to the Dale is not as big as the difference in capacitors from MKP10 to ODAM."

I am not sure why the ongoing conversation on this thread has not alluded to this 2nd mod, or has it? Or are the resistor mods just not as popular as the capacitor mods?

 

[theeclone]

Any thoughts on running 12av7 or 12ay7 tubes in the gain stage of the freya n with socket adaptors? The heater current is less than the 6n1p's and the gain is slightly higher.

Please & thank you

 

[PoMarantz]

So we have gone from tube rolling to capacitor rolling??

It's all the rage! You get more bang for your $400.

 

[PoMarantz]

Not to forget resister-rolling, as described on this Schiit Freya DIY modding site:

*The second modification is to replace the 8 pieces of 2W Dale metal film resistors with 2W Audio Note Tantalum types. There are 4 pieces of 22k resistors in the differential amplifier´s anode connection and 4 pieces of 47k resistor in the cathode follower´s ground connection. These tantalum resistors are also not cheap but their impact is easily heard. There are even two other even more expensive resistor types from Audio Note available. Still, they need some significant time to break-in and results right after installation are quite poor. The sound difference from the Audio Note to the Dale is not as big as the difference in capacitors from MKP10 to ODAM."

I am not sure why the ongoing conversation on this thread has not alluded to this 2nd mod, or has it? Or are the resistor mods just not as popular as the capacitor mods?

I would need more very specific information to make that mod…which I do not have. I need the exact correct replacement resistors and technique to remove and replace them. I do have that info for the capacitors.
I am slightly out of my comfort zone with the circuit board modifications, but I even have a video showing how to do the capacitor mod., so I feel confident about doing that.
Installing much-needed vents to cool The Freya more efficiently is right up my alley, though!

 

[theeclone]

Sylvania 12AT7s as followers w socket adapters and non-stock voshkod rockets still in the gain section. Maybe it's my imagination but I'm really liking whatever change the Sylvanias seem to be bringing to the table. Seems like sweeter mids; and like things are jumping out more to the front of the sound stage. They take less heater current too, so things are running a bit cooler.

 

[qwin49]

Not to forget resister-rolling, as described on this Schiit Freya DIY modding site:

*The second modification is to replace the 8 pieces of 2W Dale metal film resistors with 2W Audio Note Tantalum types. There are 4 pieces of 22k resistors in the differential amplifier´s anode connection and 4 pieces of 47k resistor in the cathode follower´s ground connection. These tantalum resistors are also not cheap but their impact is easily heard. There are even two other even more expensive resistor types from Audio Note available. Still, they need some significant time to break-in and results right after installation are quite poor. The sound difference from the Audio Note to the Dale is not as big as the difference in capacitors from MKP10 to ODAM."

I am not sure why the ongoing conversation on this thread has not alluded to this 2nd mod, or has it? Or are the resistor mods just not as popular as the capacitor mods?

Your link is just to a personal blog. Even the guy that did it, admitted the gains from changing resistors was small and the cost was large.
I considered changing to the next level up of Audio Note Tants, the non magnetic $$$, but if you google any of these Tant resistors, you get mixed reviews, just as many people said it was a backward step, as said it was an improvement (Non Freya projects). For the high outlay, I decided it was a gamble to far, the Vishay Dale that are fitted get positive reviews anyway and are often used in much more expensive gear.
The capacitor change, was universally reported as a big step forward and I would absolutely agree with this, so it's a good bang per buck in my opinion.
The Freya+ is very good in stock form, the Cap upgrade makes a significant improvement, the ventilation mods I carried out, should prolong the life of my product, that's as far as I'm going to mess with it, as I'm very happy with what it does.
But.... I'm sure some folks will want to scratch that itch.
I'm back to tube rolling, as one of my Ken-Rad VT-231, in the right side gain section, has developed a slight distortion, mainly noticeable as a raspy edge on vocals. I swapped the pair out for supplied JJ's and the issue was gone. That's a pity as I love what the Ken-Rad's do, but they are getting harder to find these days and are pricey.

 

[PoMarantz]

Your link is just to a personal blog. Even the guy that did it, admitted the gains from changing resistors was small and the cost was large.
I considered changing to the next level up of Audio Note Tants, the non magnetic $$$, but if you google any of these Tant resistors, you get mixed reviews, just as many people said it was a backward step, as said it was an improvement (Non Freya projects). For the high outlay, I decided it was a gamble to far, the Vishay Dale that are fitted get positive reviews anyway and are often used in much more expensive gear.
The capacitor change, was universally reported as a big step forward and I would absolutely agree with this, so it's a good bang per buck in my opinion.
The Freya+ is very good in stock form, the Cap upgrade makes a significant improvement, the ventilation mods I carried out, should prolong the life of my product, that's as far as I'm going to mess with it, as I'm very happy with what it does.
But.... I'm sure some folks will want to scratch that itch.
I'm back to tube rolling, as one of my Ken-Rad VT-231, in the right side gain section, has developed a slight distortion, mainly noticeable as a raspy edge on vocals. I swapped the pair out for supplied JJ's and the issue was gone. That's a pity as I love what the Ken-Rad's do, but they are getting harder to find these days and are pricey.

Thanks for the clarification! I think with the preamp at the ~$1000 price mark…. 2-sets NOS tubes (~$400), and Capacitor & Vent mod (~$400), and the time and energy involved..like you, that is as far as I am willing to go with my Freya+. My Freya is GREAT the way it is driving my McIntosh MC152 Power Amp….Truly. This will just be a bit of icing on the cake and offers the joy of improvement & personalization to my Freya+.
Plus…I just want to take the preamp apart one time and do both mods. I wanted a winter project and this is a challenging fun one!
Note: The supplier for The V-Caps (Chris VanHaus at VH Audio, here in The U.S.), very unexpectedly reached out to me when he was ready to ship and told me each Cap was tested and the 4 have closely matched "values". (I honestly have to say I am not sure what the values indicate, but I a guessing like tubes or resistors, one wants them similar). He thoughtfully wrote the value on each Cap with a sharpie! Mine:
2.265 uF
2.266 uF
2.272 uF
2.273 uF
I am not sure if this topic was addressed in this thread, but I asked him if there was a burn-in time.
He responded "40-60 hrs and then they’ll be near ‘fully cooked’ by 200 hrs"
Question: Did you notice a change in sound during the Cap burn-in time on your Freya+?
…and again thanks for relating all your valuable experience, here!

 

[qwin49]

Question: Did you notice a change in sound during the Cap burn-in time on your Freya+?
…and again thanks for relating all your valuable experience, here!

Yes, though the changes were not as dramatic as with some caps I've owned.
Started quite nice out of the box at both ends of the spectrum, but thin midrange.
Went off the boil at around 20hrs, with weak bass and slight sibilance, then started to improve noticeably at about 60hrs.
By 80hrs, definitely better than they started, mid range made an appearance and sibilance died down.
Really good at about 100hrs, but still slightly improving.
I've also heard it said 100 to 200hrs for these caps to fully settle, but I recon 95% there at 100hrs.
Got about 160hrs on mine now and it's difficult to hear much of a change from session to session.
I find most caps are pretty much there at around 100hrs, if making changes, I always run for 100hrs before giving a serious listen.
So you might have to be patient.
I've also noticed over the years that caps take fewer hours to burn in if cycled, say 12hrs on, 12hours off, rather than 24/7 running. You don't really gain any time though, because it takes you twice as long to put the hours on when cycling, saves on valve run time and a bit of electrickery though.
Nice that your caps are closely matched, though in this application, as DC blockers, it's not critical.