Schiit Eitr impression and USB-SPDIF converters discussion

[darkarn]

I experimented further and so far the best setup was to use a Weiduka AC8.8 for only the JBL LSR 305.

This lessens (but not completely eliminate) the chance that the Eitr would switch on/off by itself when the LSR 305 are being switched on/off,

As a bonus, this completely eliminates the chance that the Eitr would switch on/off by itself due to other factors (e.g. bathroom lights being used); it seems to me that the JBL LSR 305 is sensitive to such factors, which then causes them to affect the Eitr

What power conditioners should I try next?

 

[audiobomber]

I experimented further and so far the best setup was to use a Weiduka AC8.8 for only the JBL LSR 305.

This lessens (but not completely eliminate) the chance that the Eitr would switch on/off by itself when the LSR 305 are being switched on/off,

As a bonus, this completely eliminates the chance that the Eitr would switch on/off by itself due to other factors (e.g. bathroom lights being used); it seems to me that the JBL LSR 305 is sensitive to such factors, which then causes them to affect the Eitr

What power conditioners should I try next?

Furman is the big dog in pro studios. I have the PST-8 for my networking gear and the Elite-15 PFi in my main audio system. I am thrilled with the performance, never any unusual electrical occurrences or weirdness and the Elite-15 was a major uplift in sound quality for my 100W monoblocks. The PST-8 is great for computer and front-end components but not power amps, as it lacks the Power Factor technology.

 

[darkarn]

Furman is the big dog in pro studios. I have the PST-8 for my networking gear and the Elite-15 PFi in my main audio system. I am thrilled with the performance, never any weird electrical occurrences or weirdness and the Elite-15 was a major uplift in sound quality for my 100W monoblocks. The PST-8 is great for computer and front-end components but not power amps, as it lacks the Power Factor technology.

Thanks, so far I see the Furman M-10X E and maybe the Furman PL-8 C E within my budget and available here. Not sure how these fare up to the models you are using though

 

[darkarn]

Another update on my Eitr issue:
After much more testing (mainly setting up a camcorder to record the Eitr while switching on/off various stuff around the house). I can safely narrow the issue down to just the JBL LSR 305. Very specifically, during the on/off sequence, there is a delay between flicking their switches and the monitors being able to play audio. The Eitr would turn itself on/off briefly during this delay. Also, when the JBL LSR 305 are switched on, sometimes this still happens.

My rough suspicion is that the switching power supply within the LSR 305 (and perhaps the Class D amps within them?) is creating enough electrical noise that affects only the Eitr but not the rest of my equipment (audio or not) since this only started when I got my Eitr weeks ago, and my current Belkin Gold Series surge protectors are not able to filter enough of that noise

Workarounds that worked so far:
1. Using the Weiduka AC8.8 (Chinese power conditioner) with only the JBL LSR 305: Lessened such occurances a lot (which means its filtering work better than the Belkin?), but this particular set I am using seem to be on its way out too (hence my questions about other power conditioners) since its voltmeter started to show a reading of 300V instead of the usual 240V which may mean something is breaking down
2. Switched off JBL LSR 305: Completely eliminated the problem so far but it means I need to use my headphones. Not that great if I need to answer to people calling out to me and/or doorbells etc since these are closed-back headphones

If anything, it sounds like I need to either spend a reasonable sum of money for known-good power conditioners that can hopefully help with this (and replace the Weiduka AC8.8), or simply buy a new pair of speakers that hopefully do not exhibit such issues. Most models of power conditioners/UPSes/speakers so far seem out of reach budget-wise or rather they don't seem to make sense to me since I can just use the same amount of money to get a Biifrost 2 to replace the Modi Multibit+Eitr combo I am using right now

I will investigate further for sure since I do want a solution where I don't give up either the Eitr or the LSR 305 since they are indeed a wonderful combo. Might bite the bullet for either the Isotek's Isoplug, Tacima CS947 or Furman M-10x E since these are still within my budget of less than 200 SGD (anything more is better spent on better components imo)

For the record, they still work, just that the random shutdowns can get disruptive if I am using OBS to record gameplay cos it will mean I need to pause gameplay and restart OBS

 

[audiobomber]

Thanks, so far I see the Furman M-10X E and maybe the Furman PL-8 C E within my budget and available here. Not sure how these fare up to the models you are using though

Unfortunately neither has the features in the models I use. Both lack Ultra-Linear Filtering and Power Factor Technology. Maybe try the iFi Audio AC Purifier in your existing conditioner? It would be an inexpensive solution and if it doesn't work you can return it for a refund.

 

[darkarn]

Unfortunately neither has the features in the models I use. Both lack Ultra-Linear Filtering and Power Factor Technology. Maybe try the iFi Audio AC Purifier in your existing conditioner? It would be an inexpensive solution and if it doesn't work you can return it for a refund.

This is a good idea, I'll need to see if my local distributor is ok with that especially since it is something that I will need to bring back home to try

 

[Markus9229]

Hello everyone. I have acquired a Sony DAS-703 and I plan to use it with my PC.

Since it doesn't have USB input, but only coaxial, I need a USB to Coaxial converter.

Someone I know that has the same Sony DAC advised me one of these converters with the PCM2704 chip that costs about $10. Initially I was taken back by the very very cheap design and low price, but they told me since it's digital to digital the internal DAC of the $10 would be overridden by the Sony and there would be no negative impact in quality.

I'm hoping it's true because this Sony DAC was very, VERY expensive for my standards and I would not want to have to spend $200 more just to be able to use it without a loss in quality.

What do you guys think?

 

[darkarn]

Hello everyone. I have acquired a Sony DAS-703 and I plan to use it with my PC.

Since it doesn't have USB input, but only coaxial, I need a USB to Coaxial converter.

Someone I know that has the same Sony DAC advised me one of these converters with the PCM2704 chip that costs about $10. Initially I was taken back by the very very cheap design and low price, but they told me since it's digital to digital the internal DAC of the $10 would be overridden by the Sony and there would be no negative impact in quality.

I'm hoping it's true because this Sony DAC was very, VERY expensive for my standards and I would not want to have to spend $200 more just to be able to use it without a loss in quality.

What do you guys think?

I hate to be "that guy" but this should be its own thread so that it is more visible since this thread is more for people who have Eitrs or are considering them (but yeah gotta admit that the title of this thread is kinda misleading too)

That said, the quality of the USB to Coaxial converter is also dependant on the quality of the USB receiver on it and how well the device converts the signal. The Schiit Eitr is excellent for its (closeout) price since it uses a high quality USB receiver, reclocks the digital signal and made sure that there is little interference from power on the USB (since USB carries power too and usually that messes up the quality of the signal). It soundly beats other options (some of these are even end-game tier stuff!)

Unfortunately it is a discontinued product since late 2019 but some of us got lucky and got it from the Clearance/Deals section of Schiit's website for 99 USD before shipping charges when they show up sometimes. If you are ok with checking that page daily until you see one, this can be an option for you. But if you need a converter now, you will need to check out other options

What I am saying is that even though it's digital to digital, the quality can vary too depending on how well-designed the converter is

 

[audiobomber]

they told me since it's digital to digital the internal DAC of the $10 would be overridden by the Sony and there would be no negative impact in quality.

I wish that was true, but it's not. D-to-D converters impact sound quality, and upstream quality matters, even with very expensive DAC's.

 

[monadnock]

is anyone using an external linear power supply w EITR? i've been using wall wort.. have been thinking about selling and getting something else.. nicer than EITR too. sbooster makes a 5-6v unit.. not cheap but the uptick that the Sbooster gives to my Lumin streamer is noticeable.. compared to direct IEC connection and onboard Lumin PS..

 

[monadnock]

I really like to see Schiit re-enter the DDC market.. it's compacted w chinese units that cost more than most of the Schiit line up.. just for clean power.. Schiit really, really missing the boat here- can't understand why they ditched the EITR either. one of the worst moves..

 

[audiobomber]

is anyone using an external linear power supply w EITR? i've been using wall wort.. have been thinking about selling and getting something else.. nicer than EITR too. sbooster makes a 5-6v unit.. not cheap but the uptick that the Sbooster gives to my Lumin streamer is noticeable.. compared to direct IEC connection and onboard Lumin PS..

The Eitr PSU is 6V AC, not DC. Take the advice provided in the manual, and don't use anything else, or you may cause irreparable damage. DC supplied from the SBooster could be fatal.

I do have a suggestion that worked for me though. Depending on your source, you might benefit from upgrading the USB power supply to the Eitr. I have done this in two ways; 1. A dual-head USB cable (one USB B, two USB A) with an upgraded power supply on the 5V power leg, or 2. An iFi Audio iDefender with outboard 5V power supply.

IME, a USB cleaner is helpful too. I use an iPurifier2 with good results. I was not happy with the bare Eitr. The improved USB power and iPurifier made a huge improvement.

 

[monadnock]

The Eitr PSU is 6V AC, not DC. Take the advice provided in the manual, and don't use anything else, or you may cause irreparable damage. DC supplied from the SBooster could be fatal.

I do have a suggestion that worked for me though. Depending on your source, you might benefit from upgrading the USB power supply to the Eitr. I have done this in two ways; 1. A dual-head USB cable (one USB B, two USB A) with an upgraded power supply on the 5V power leg, or 2. An iFi Audio iDefender with outboard 5V power supply.

IME, a USB cleaner is helpful too. I use an iPurifier2 with good results. I was not happy with the bare Eitr. The improved USB power and iPurifier made a huge improvement.

good info.. thanks for the fact check and good suggestions.

I priced those options out and think it prob just makes sense to sell EITR and get the Sonore UltraDigital or something else rather than spending more money on the EITR.. i still think Schiit is dropping/ missing the ball/ boat here, not offering an affordable US made DDC.

 

[CarlosAudio51]

i still think Schiit is dropping/ missing the ball/ boat here, not offering an affordable US made DDC.

I'd make no sense for Schiit to offer a Unison USB to SPDIF and/or AES standalone converter. Why would they go thru all the trouble and time to develop a whole new USB audio interface and not make it exclusive to Schiit DACs?

I know Schiit is known for going against the grain so I guess we never know. Maybe they will release a Unison-based DDC but it's not likely. If I remember correctly, Jason said they stopped making Eitr because sales weren't that good.

 

[audiobomber]

good info.. thanks for the fact check and good suggestions.

I priced those options out and think it prob just makes sense to sell EITR and get the Sonore UltraDigital or something else rather than spending more money on the EITR.. i still think Schiit is dropping/ missing the ball/ boat here, not offering an affordable US made DDC.

Not too expensive, iDefender is $49, iPurifier3 is $129, iPower 5V is $49 or preferably the sonically superior iPower X for $99; so $280 for the better version. This setup and the Eitr sounds as good as my sMS-200 Neo with LPS.

The Eitr is integral to my headphone setup, because it connects my Windows laptop to my DAC via coax, leaving the DAC's USB outlet for the sMS, which is connected via ethernet to my router. I can switch from one system to the other (internet vs. NAS library) by just clicking on the DAC's remote.