Rockna Wavelight
Jan 18, 2024 at 12:46 PM Post #1,501 of 1,590
I have a hint of low treble glare w/Susvara with certain recordings. I was hoping the new usb would help tamp this down as well as glean some of the benefits you described. Nicolae suggested I try this before heading to a DDC or other solution. Makes sense. A low cost option with additional benefits.
Report back when you have installed it! :)
 
Jan 18, 2024 at 4:50 PM Post #1,502 of 1,590
I have a hint of low treble glare w/Susvara with certain recordings. I was hoping the new usb would help tamp this down as well as glean some of the benefits you described. Nicolae suggested I try this before heading to a DDC or other solution. Makes sense. A low cost option with additional benefits.

Be careful in attributing any of this perceived "glare" to your DAC. You're going fully digital directly from your computer (into the DAC) - which might not be ideal.

Your specific chain / your AMP / tubes / power, etc all play a role ...

A USB improvement should reduce noise. Digital noise tends to masquerade as added warmth. An improved USB input should provide a "cleaner" signal which could be perceived as more neutral - again, all very subjective.

As we discussed over PM, the Wavelight does best with I2S or AES, so consider giving those a try when you can.
 
Jan 18, 2024 at 4:54 PM Post #1,503 of 1,590
As you just found out - you cannot use the default player on MAC - must use Bitperfect or you will brick the unit.


I'm a MAC user myself - and still debating whether or not I want to even attempt via MAC - I may just grab a cheap windows laptop to avoid the issue. I emailed with Rockna and they suggested Bitperfect, but admited not doing a lot of testing on MAC with the firmware updates.


Question for you --> when you say "newer board" do you mean a replacement board or did Scott specifically tell you there is an updated version of the WL board ? I am confused about this in your post above ?

Following up on this - I was able to confirm that the hardware chip variation is simply due to global supply chain constraints of the past couple years - not a technical / sound quality improvement/upgrade (as others have noted above) ...

Also, I was able to get some guidance that for MAC users out there Bitperfect is the suggested app to be used via MAC Desktop if attempting firmware update. I will likely try this myself soon and will post if I run into any unexpected errors.
 
Jan 18, 2024 at 5:29 PM Post #1,504 of 1,590
Be careful in attributing any of this perceived "glare" to your DAC. You're going fully digital directly from your computer (into the DAC) - which might not be ideal.

Your specific chain / your AMP / tubes / power, etc all play a role ...

A USB improvement should reduce noise. Digital noise tends to masquerade as added warmth. An improved USB input should provide a "cleaner" signal which could be perceived as more neutral - again, all very subjective.

As we discussed over PM, the Wavelight does best with I2S or AES, so consider giving those a try when you can.

In my experience, glare reduction has come from making sure power to all components is optimized as well as network noise reduction.
 
Jan 18, 2024 at 5:29 PM Post #1,505 of 1,590
Be careful in attributing any of this perceived "glare" to your DAC. You're going fully digital directly from your computer (into the DAC) - which might not be ideal.

Your specific chain / your AMP / tubes / power, etc all play a role ...

A USB improvement should reduce noise. Digital noise tends to masquerade as added warmth. An improved USB input should provide a "cleaner" signal which could be perceived as more neutral - again, all very subjective.

As we discussed over PM, the Wavelight does best with I2S or AES, so consider giving those a try when you can.
True. It’s unclear what is driving the issue. Susvaras are little elevated in the low treble relative to Harmon. I purchased the Sus from a Head-Fier who was sensitive to those frequencies. He just sold the cans and moved on. So that’s one explanation although not many folks have this problem w/Sus. And he was running a high end Woo.
So, as I mentioned in our conversation, there are a bunch of ways to try and go at this: EQ; a different player; an I2S DDC; or an I2S streamer. Not to mention power supplies and cables. I figured this was a relatively inexpensive first try recommended by Rockna that would have other benefits in addition (I hope) to helping w/the hint of glare I hear on some tracks. I’m running a Holo Bliss which seems to be a good fit for the WL and sus, although some folks prefer tubes for the sus. I’m also sourcing the chain from a Mac so anything to lower the noise floor - like the new usb module - seems like a reasonable next step. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for your input.
 
Jan 19, 2024 at 2:37 PM Post #1,507 of 1,590
I picked up the 110v version. According to the manual, I can switch to 220v version.
IMG_0515.png


The problem I seem to have is my jumpers are located on J1 and J5 (refer bottom pic). And not J1 and J3 as per the manual.

IMG_0514.jpeg


Do I just go ahead and just change the jumpers on J1 and J5?
 
Jan 19, 2024 at 3:51 PM Post #1,508 of 1,590
The problem I seem to have is my jumpers are located on J1 and J5 (refer bottom pic). And not J1 and J3 as per the manual.

IMG_0514.jpeg


Do I just go ahead and just change the jumpers on J1 and J5?
Yes, I think so. To be sure, unplug J3 and J5 and test with multimeter (on the buzzer range) between matching pins of both connectors, it should be bridged together on the PCB. It means, there is no difference whether plugs are swapped.

These are Molex connectors. You can remove pins from the connector by inserting a needle to the front opening, flattering blockade which is a part of a pin. Do it after pushing a wire to the front, otherwise it can be stuck.
 
Last edited:
Jan 20, 2024 at 2:40 AM Post #1,511 of 1,590
Jan 22, 2024 at 3:01 PM Post #1,513 of 1,590
as far as fuses go, this is the response I got from Rockna when trying to figure out which value of fuse to use:

The fuse installed from the factory is oversized. You can safely use the following 20x5mm fuse values:
- for 230v operation use 0.315A fast(quick) blow ceramic, or 0.5A slow-blow high performance(audiophile) fuse;
- for 110v operation use 0.63A fast(quick) blow ceramic, or 1A slow-blow high performance(audiophile) fuse.


I couldn't make out if the fuse that came with the unit was a T or F6.3A which prompted the email.
 
Jan 22, 2024 at 3:14 PM Post #1,514 of 1,590

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top