[momomo6789]

digital all sound the same they have to ..

 

[tekdemon]

lol, any cable that carries a digital signal-so long as it works-is fine. You can't get better audio quality when all the digital bits are already sent fine, any more than your mp3 downloads become magically better sounding if you download them over $9000/month internet instead of a $50 a month internet connection, lol.

 

[jilgiljongiljing]

DealsClick

FREE Belkin F3U133-10 Gold Series Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Cable- 10 feet with 5 bucks shipping. Beat that!

 

[JamesL]

AmazonBasics
amazon's cables are pretty well built too

 

[entrope]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tekdemon /img/forum/go_quote.gif lol, any cable that carries a digital signal-so long as it works-is fine. You can't get better audio quality when all the digital bits are already sent fine, any more than your mp3 downloads become magically better sounding if you download them over $9000/month internet instead of a $50 a month internet connection, lol.

Yeah. I used to spend quite a fair bit on cables (primarily because I'm an aesthetics nut more-so than anything really), and even I admit that upgrading digital cables for SQ is pretty daft.

One of my servers averages over 1TB of traffic per day and my interface logs have never ever showed any bit which required error correction due to transmission errors on the physical layer.

So surely if my high-bandwidth mission-critical applications which are running on CAT-6 cables which are a buck a meter work perfectly fine, then my stock USB cable from my PC to my DAC should suffice.

 

[Prog Rock Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prog Rock Man /img/forum/go_quote.gif Have you any examples/proof of that? To the OP, was your problem actually a ground loop? You can get isolators which go between the DAC and amp here Amazon.co.uk: ground loop isolator

I have been on holidays, hence the bump.

Grawk, you are a moderator, you are supposed to hold a position of respect and responsibility, so please provide proof re Kimber or withdraw you comment.

Hansen, ground loop is basically a problem with different electrical items not being grounded and there is interference between them. That in turn causes noise issues.

 

[FraGGleR]

If you are going to go inexpensive for a quality USB cable, you might as well go to the king's of inexpensive quality, Monoprice.com. Great build quality, USB 2.0 compliant, and super cheap: For only $0.93 each when QTY 50+ purchased - USB 2.0 A Male to B Male 28/24AWG Cable - (Gold Plated) - 6ft | USB 2.0 Cables - Regular Type

I make my own for fun and aesthetics (and I haven't had any problems yet) for my audio setup, but I have been a Monoprice fan for years. I have a couple Belkin cables as well as a Canon and a Sony (came with cameras) and the Monoprice cables easily match if not exceed all of them.

Oh, and the Kimber may or may not improve your sound quality, but they are commecially produced and shouldn't be the source of your problems.

 

[Prog Rock Man]

I am a fan of ThatCable who sell in the UK on ebay. I have pulled some of their stuff apart to show a friend who works for a company who make there own cables for non hifi purposes. He said the build and material quality was excellent.

That will do me.

I have and had Kimber cables and there is no doubting their build and material quality as well. I preferred it to the terrible plastic phono plug, bell wire stuff that was available before ebay in particular, gave easy access to good quality, audiophile at a sensible price cables.

 

[grawk]

In this discussion, I'm a member. The only chance aftermarket cables have to impact sound is by diverging from specifications. I admit I don't know if kimber is one of those cables. They could be perfectly good usb2 spec cables, comparable to belden, except for the marketing nonsense. If they're handmade, or leave pins disconnected, then they're worse than snake oil, they're detrimental and non-conforming.

 

[Hansen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prog Rock Man /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hansen, ground loop is basically a problem with different electrical items not being grounded and there is interference between them. That in turn causes noise issues.

Alright, I think I understand, but I don't know how to avoid/fix that, since the computer should be grounded. However, the USB DAC is powered through the usb buzz.

I bought the belkin cable and a dlink usb hub that is self-powered, but it did not solve the problem. I have now returned the DAC.

 

[Prog Rock Man]

Hansen, this is a better and more detailed explanation

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity)

Both the PC and the DAC are grounded, but possibly at a different potential and that is where a difference is created and you get a loop.

 

[Prog Rock Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by grawk /img/forum/go_quote.gif In this discussion, I'm a member. The only chance aftermarket cables have to impact sound is by diverging from specifications. I admit I don't know if kimber is one of those cables. They could be perfectly good usb2 spec cables, comparable to belden, except for the marketing nonsense. If they're handmade, or leave pins disconnected, then they're worse than snake oil, they're detrimental and non-conforming.

Thanks for that, I see now

 

[junker]

I'd try a direct connection first and foremost, with as short of a USB run as possible even though the spec is limited to 5m.
 
Second piece of advice is to try various USB ports on your computer. I had a lot a digital garbage noise coming through on one side of my old MBP, that was reduced on the other side of the computer.
 
Make sure the USB cable isn't being run adjacent to any other cables.
 
Finally, if you still have a problem with RFI, does your Kimber cable have the Ferrite filter cores attached. On the Kimber Ag you can request those for a minimal fee. They come standard on the Cu version.
 
It is a misnomer that all USB cables sound the same cuz' the are digital and "bits are bits". The also have raw 5V DC running with the differential signals. The USB signal leads still carry electrons like any analog wire and will have a rise time and propagation rate determined by the conductor and insulator used. The issue with USB audio is that it is not packet based and there is no error correction. The 0V point is when a "0" is determined to be a "1" and a good cable will give you a good rise time without interference and internal reflections caused by impedance mismatches anywhere from the transmitter chip to the receiver chip.
 
A good, short Belkin Gold would be okay too but I think they start at 2m. I'd rather have a short 0.5m or shorter cable without the ferrite core, run clean, and made with excellent construction. The Kimber is both crimped and soldered at the connectors as well so if you have it I'd just look at the recs above and see if you can make it work for you. If not, I doubt it is the cable unless you are running without the ferrite cores. Good luck!

 

[Chris J]

I'd try a direct connection first and foremost, with as short of a USB run as possible even though the spec is limited to 5m.

Second piece of advice is to try various USB ports on your computer. I had a lot a digital garbage noise coming through on one side of my old MBP, that was reduced on the other side of the computer.

Make sure the USB cable isn't being run adjacent to any other cables.

Finally, if you still have a problem with RFI, does your Kimber cable have the Ferrite filter cores attached. On the Kimber Ag you can request those for a minimal fee. They come standard on the Cu version.

It is a misnomer that all USB cables sound the same cuz' the are digital and "bits are bits". The also have raw 5V DC running with the differential signals. The USB signal leads still carry electrons like any analog wire and will have a rise time and propagation rate determined by the conductor and insulator used. The issue with USB audio is that it is not packet based and there is no error correction. The 0V point is when a "0" is determined to be a "1" and a good cable will give you a good rise time without interference and internal reflections caused by impedance mismatches anywhere from the transmitter chip to the receiver chip.

A good, short Belkin Gold would be okay too but I think they start at 2m. I'd rather have a short 0.5m or shorter cable without the ferrite core, run clean, and made with excellent construction. The Kimber is both crimped and soldered at the connectors as well so if you have it I'd just look at the recs above and see if you can make it work for you. If not, I doubt it is the cable unless you are running without the ferrite cores. Good luck!

I do not believe there is a ferrite core around the cable in any USB cable spec.

So any Kimber USB cable with a ferrite core will be off spec.

 

[caeadura7]

Quote:

I do not believe there is a ferrite core around the cable in any USB cable spec.

So any Kimber USB cable with a ferrite core will be off spec.

Please this isn't a faith thing, the fact is the most of scanners and usb CD/DVD recorders include for free a USB cable with ferrite from the beginning of USB cables era and of course is part of one of the specifications for this kind of cables.
 
Like I'm using a mac mini connected to a RAID, I need rip my CDs and DVDAs, I tried a lot of different USB cables from printers, scanners, recorders, including Belkin and other brands ripping my discs (in pristine condition), but the most of the time I needed re-rip the discs to obtain an accurate rip. Well, a friend of mine gave me a silver USB cable (not Kimber) and I tried again... and surprise, now in very rare occassions I need re-rip.
My grain of sand.