[KaiSc]

Quoted from Jotunheim A‘s manual:

2 Bass Shelf.
Up is ON. Down is off. Turn it ON if you want a more bassy tonal balance. When it is on it attenuates mids and highs and leaves bass unchanged. This makes overall loudness lower with more bassy tonal balance.

The description perfectly fits to the baffle step compensation, but Schiit did re-tune it from the baffle step compensation into a bass boost.
Jotunheim A is explicitly made for LCD-R AND Raal headphones, which, at the date of it‘s appearance (mid ’21), was just the SR-1a.

Jotunheim A (for AUDEZE LCD-R) bass boost, watch out for the frequency scale going up to 1 kHz only:

Original impedance matching interface, to my measurements within ca. 0.3 dB similar to Jotunheim R (for Raal) baffle step compensation:

AUDEZE talked about minor tweaks, and Schiit about refinements.
For 199 bucks I wouldn‘t hesitate to try one on my SR1a and do a baffle step EQ in software, but already have the Jot R.

 

[Jon L]

For 199 bucks I wouldn‘t hesitate to try one on my SR1a, but already have the Jot R.

The lower gain on Jot-A may require other system adjustments for SR1.
I do have two Jot-R's for my ultimate plan of Jot-R super-duper monoblocks for Raal, but I do need to come up with another matching Wywires Platinum headphone cable...

 

[ruhian]

The lower gain on Jot-A may require other system adjustments for SR1.
I do have two Jot-R's for my ultimate plan of Jot-R super-duper monoblocks for Raal, but I do need to come up with another matching Wywires Platinum headphone cable...

Awaiting your impressions on that......but If doesnt come to pass happy to take one Jot R of your hands hehe

 

[Litlgi74]

Anyone have listening impressions on the SR1a and the Topping LA90 / TI-1b combo?

I am currently using a Simaudio Moon 600i / TI-1b combo... But the Moon was mainly for my 1266TCs.. and I no longer have those.

 

[KaiSc]

There are inductors inside the old Amp/Ribbon-Interface box doing the baffle compensation.
To use it with CA-1a it’s best way to solder-bridge these inductors, an easy DIY-job if you or a friend can solder.

The box has certain advantages, e.g. largely taking the cable out of the equation, which explicitly was part of it’s original purpose.

I was asked how to do that:

The inductors for left an right channels are the coils with metal core, pictured left.

Locate the connection points of their bronze-colored wires on the PC-board.
Link each two connection points with little solder-bridges (very short pieces of wire), of course separate for left and right channel‘s inductors.
These shortings bypass the inductors.

Now the baffle-correction is completely out of the circuit, and the resistor box can be used for ribbon-headphones that don‘t need it, like the Raal CA-1a and (voiding it’s warranty!) the AUDEZE LCD-R.

 

[simorag]

Serious fun comparing these three

Will report back my feelings in due time here

 

[jlbrach]

looking forward to hearing your thoughts

Serious fun comparing these three

Will report back my feelings in due time here

I have yet to hear any amp that bests the VM-1a for the sr1a and ca-1a....

 

[Spawn300Z]

looking forward to hearing your thoughts

I have yet to hear any amp that bests the VM-1a for the sr1a and ca-1a....

I haven’t heard the VM-1A but will say that the Riviera AIC-10 off speaker taps is pretty amazing with the Raal CA-1A. So I look forward to the comparison also.

 

[Litlgi74]

Serious fun comparing these three

Will report back my feelings in due time here

Glad to see you hear!

 

[Spawn300Z]

Serious fun comparing these three

Will report back my feelings in due time here

Any early notes to provide

 

[jlbrach]

I haven’t heard the VM-1A but will say that the Riviera AIC-10 off speaker taps is pretty amazing with the Raal CA-1A. So I look forward to the comparison also.

I am sure that it is but you still have to put the adapter in front of it....my CFA3 does a great job but the CA-1a direct drive is better

 

[yyzSB]

I am sure that it is but you still have to put the adapter in front of it....my CFA3 does a great job but the CA-1a direct drive is better

I had the VM-1a for about a year with both the CA-1a and SR1a. It was the best RAAL phone amp I had heard. Today I am using a $800 schitt Aegir amp and a $1100 Schitt Mjolnir preamp (+ Benchmark DAC3B). This is a Class setup, and I am starting to wonder if this setup is at the VM-1a's levels.

I think this speaks a lot for the quality of Tl-1b adapter I use.

 

[morserotonin]

Today marks my two year anniversary with the RAAL SR-1a. Still the best headphone I have heard for my preferences. My rig is modest at the moment: Roon > Accurate Sound filters > OB compensation in Parametric EQ > RME ADI-2 DAC FS (the older AKM model) > Schitt Jotunheim R, but I haven't really wanted more. Hence my lack of time spent on Head-Fi in the last year. End game... well it ended a game, now I just keep buying records for my 2 channel rig, and conteplate buying a another turntable rig for the single ended inputs of the Jotunheim R lol

 

[yyzSB]

Today marks my two year anniversary with the RAAL SR-1a. Still the best headphone I have heard for my preferences. My rig is modest at the moment: Roon > Accurate Sound filters > OB compensation in Parametric EQ > RME ADI-2 DAC FS (the older AKM model) > Schitt Jotunheim R, but I haven't really wanted more. Hence my lack of time spent on Head-Fi in the last year. End game... well it ended a game, now I just keep buying records for my 2 channel rig, and conteplate buying a another turntable rig for the single ended inputs of the Jotunheim R lol

I think you are driving distance to this place,
https://www.schiit.com/places

If so, you should hear the following 2 with the SR1a.
https://www.schiit.com/products/aegir
https://www.schiit.com/products/mjolnir-3 (editted)

You will need the new TL-1b from RAAL to use with the amp.

I used to own the Schitt JR and the RAAL VM-1a. The Schitt gear I have listed above gets you very close to the VM-1a at a cost that is not too crazy. I list to this every night, and I am amazed at how good it is. VM-1a goodness.

 

[morserotonin]

I think you are driving distance to this place,
https://www.schiit.com/places

If so, you should hear the following 2 with the SR1a.
https://www.schiit.com/products/aegir
https://www.schiit.com/products/mjolnir-3 (editted)

You will need the new TL-1b from RAAL to use with the amp.

I used to own the Schitt JR and the RAAL VM-1a. The Schitt gear I have listed above gets you very close to the VM-1a at a cost that is not too crazy. I list to this every night, and I am amazed at how good it is. VM-1a goodness.

I own the freya + and the aegir for my 2 channel rig driving a pair of Zu Union 6s. I just need to get the TL-1b to give that pair a try. The Mjolnir-3 is on my list to try to drive my collection on closed back headphones that I find I need at times.