[yyzSB]

I compared the HSA-1b in the house with an assortment of amps, integrateds, and DACs. Since I am mainly 2 channel (less now with the SR1a) I had the need for this 2 channel gear. The best speaker amp and DAC combos I used were at the same level as the HSA-1b. Some speaker amp combos were not as good but the best combos I had were just as good.

 

[number1sixerfan]

the jotr does a nice job for a very reasonable price...the hsa-1b is better and can drive your susvara nicely....

I appreciate that. I'm still pretty big on the hsa-1b, just thinking with the Susvara specifically, I'd want something that either outperforms the WA33 or at the same level if I'm going to spring for another amp. From what I've read, I'm not sure that's the case (although it seems like it drives the Raal great). It's still really high on my list however.

I compared the HSA-1b in the house with an assortment of amps, integrateds, and DACs. Since I am mainly 2 channel (less now with the SR1a) I had the need for this 2 channel gear. The best speaker amp and DAC combos I used were at the same level as the HSA-1b. Some speaker amp combos were not as good but the best combos I had were just as good.

*edit reply after seeing this* -that's good additional feedback to consider, thank you!

 

[Ciggavelli]

I appreciate that. I'm still pretty big on the hsa-1b, just thinking with the Susvara specifically, I'd want something that either outperforms the WA33 or at the same level if I'm going to spring for another amp. From what I've read, I'm not sure that's the case (although it seems like it drives the Raal great). It's still really high on my list however.



*edit reply after seeing this* -that's good additional feedback to consider, thank you!

I have the WA33 and HSA-1b. The WA33 drives the Susvaras much better than the HSA-1b. The HSA-1b isn’t terrible, but the WA33 is very noticeably better.

 

[jlbrach]

I dont own the wa33 but have heard it at canjam a few times...it figures it would be better for a conventional HP given its cost and of course if tubes are your thing...my bakoon 13r is better than the hsa-1b with my susvara but the hsa-1b is surprisingly competitive and better than most well thought of ss amps IMHO

 

[number1sixerfan]

I have the WA33 and HSA-1b. The WA33 drives the Susvaras much better than the HSA-1b. The HSA-1b isn’t terrible, but the WA33 is very noticeably better.

I dont own the wa33 but have heard it at canjam a few times...it figures it would be better for a conventional HP given its cost and of course if tubes are your thing...my bakoon 13r is better than the hsa-1b with my susvara but the hsa-1b is surprisingly competitive and better than most well thought of ss amps IMHO

Exactly the type of info I was looking to get at. Thank you both. I believe the HSA-1b would definitely be solid with the Susvara as well, just figured not as good as with the WA33 that I love it so much with. So it probably makes sense in my situation to go the speaker amp route. Just have to find the right one that maximizes ROI for the Raal and it both.

 

[yyzSB]

Exactly the type of info I was looking to get at. Thank you both. I believe the HSA-1b would definitely be solid with the Susvara as well, just figured not as good as with the WA33 that I love it so much with. So it probably makes sense in my situation to go the speaker amp route. Just have to find the right one that maximizes ROI for the Raal and it both.

I have not heard this integrated but the Belles Aria integrated (125 watt) was something I should have tried with the SR1a. It is around $2200.

The following info can give you some ideas of how to integrate the SR1a to a 2 channel setup:

I my setup I have outputted some sources by both RCA and XLR to an integrated amp and another preamp. This way I have a 2 channel setup that works best and a SR1a amp that works best. Not all sources support with both XLR and RCA connected at the same time. My Benchmark DAC3B has no issue with this (I also confirmed with Benchmark). My Magnum Dynalab tuner also sounds OK with this. However, my AudioMirror Tubadour III SE Tube DAC does not like to have both outputs connected at the same time, even if a preamp or integrated is turned off. I confirmed this with my ears and with the DAC designer.

The new CODA 07x preamp and I bought (not delivered yet) seems like an ideal pre for the SR1a. It has 2 XLR outputs that are both active at the same time. So you can have 1 warm amp for the SR1a and another amp for your 2 channel. Just turn 1 amp ON or OFF when either is required for use. If I did not love my all Benchmark stack (with the HPA4) for 2 channel I would have just used the CODA 07x for both. I wrote a post above why I know the 07x will be great with the SR1a.

 

[FLTWS]

A while back there was some discussion of HSA-1b fuses and that a few (not myself) had some blow on them.
I'm in the process of moving my HSA-1b to my upstairs rig so I decided to pull the fuse and see what the type was.
T3AL 250V (and RAAL supply a second one for "just in case" in a slot of the fuse compartment.

The toothpick is for scale.

 

[Anders]

A while back there was some discussion of HSA-1b fuses and that a few (not myself) had some blow on them.
I'm in the process of moving my HSA-1b to my upstairs rig so I decided to pull the fuse and see what the type was.
T3AL 250V (and RAAL supply a second one for "just in case" in a slot of the fuse compartment.

The toothpick is for scale.

Not surprising with blown fuses because 1.6 A is adapted for 230V. I recently got an amp for 230 V use in Europe and the text on the back of the amp is updated with:
115V/3A * 230V/1.6A

Nothing special with that, this is the case for all equipment . If you use half the voltage then the current value of the fuse should be doubled to get the same protection. According to Ohm's law.

HSA-1b is now EC certified for use in EU and was shipped with a certification document.

 

[MacedonianHero]

I have the WA33 and HSA-1b. The WA33 drives the Susvaras much better than the HSA-1b. The HSA-1b isn’t terrible, but the WA33 is very noticeably better.

I'm personally smiling more with the HSA-1b with my Phi TC and Susvara more than I ever did with the WA33. But I do prefer the "tightness" of sound that ss amps can provide.

 

[tunes]

I'm personally smiling more with the HSA-1b with my Phi TC and Susvara more than I ever did with the WA33. But I do prefer the "tightness" of sound that ss amps can provide.

So I guess it’s all about flavor not taste. I bought the HSA-1b for my SR1a and the dream of one day owning an Abyss and/or a Susvara. I think that tubes can give some HPs a greater sound stage. I started this obsession with a Grado GS 1000 and an Eddie Current Zana Deux tube amp with amazing synergy. Once I graduated to the CHORD Dave and Hifiman HEKse I didn’t think I needed anything else. I got a good deal on Focal Utopia that had better resolution for microdetail than the HEKse but just didn’t like the closed in intimacy of the Utopias. It was starting to collect dust and I was about to sell them. I also had the Zana Deux collecting dust so decided to sell both. When I took a quick listen using the Utopias to make sure the Zana Deux was still functional I heard a completely different HP. Now the Utopias had a hugh sound stage like nothing I heard direct from the CHORD Dave. I kept the Utopias but unfortunately sold the ZanaDeux as had a buyer already. In any event I never liked the tube rolling thing and the incredible heat generated by the Zana Deux as you could get a nasty burn even touching the case. But I was so enamored with the synergy, I contacted Eddie Current to buy another but the amp is no longer being made. I am just about to buy another tube amp in the same price range just for the Utopias hoping to hear what I did with the Zana Deux. So far my top consideration is the Quicksilver HP amp without tapping into my retirement funds. I hope it all works out! Cheers.

 

[ferraro25]

My hypocrisy about "you don't really need high end amps and DACs - the headphone is 95% of it" continues with a purchase of a Schiit Ragnarok 2! Ordered the "just an amp" version, as I have an RME ADI-2 DAC FS.

This is my main hobby, and at this point I mostly just want the peace of mind that comes with not having a (supposed) weak point in my audio chain. I am using an $80 Class D amp currently! This purchase makes my refusing-to-RMA-my-Jotunheim-R-because-I-have-severe-social-anxiety-and-also-I'm-lazy-when-it-comes-to-stuff-like-that not mean much, since I think this is where I would have ended up even if my Jotunheim R didn't fry. I'm also looking forward to trying the ultra-high power headphone amp on the rest of my headphone collection. Maybe it will make the Verite Closed worthwhile to me, but I'm not expecting miracles. I have an LCD-XC now for closed listening, anyway. It's pretty good! It is nothing compared to the SR1a, as expected, but I wanted something decent and with a similar tuning to the SR1a for when there is a lot of outside noise and also for listening to music in bed. Oh, it sounds like complete garbage out of the THX-AAA 789 (which I won't have to use anymore, yay) - harshly sibilant. The LCD-XC seems to be very amp sensitive.

As I haven't taken the time to read this thread, I have no idea whether or not the Ragnarok 2 is a good match with the SR1a. I obviously hope it will be, but I seriously doubt it will be worse than the class D amp, which I have had no problems with - except it might be a little temperamental in the treble, but that could just be the SR1a. Regardless, as I've said before, the BBE 282 IR Sonic Maximizer makes a much bigger difference than any amp could, so I'm pretty confident I'll be set. On that topic, I did recently spend some days in a row not using the Sonic Maximizer, instead just using the bass boost at +6 dB on my ADI-2, but upon going back to the Maximizer (with no EQ from my ADI-2), oh, wow. No bigger upgrade exists for headphones, IMO. However, I'm definitely far from a purist, or really probably an audiophile, unless you take the word literally, as I do love audio. But is what I want "accurate" sound? Probably not. I just want what sounds "real" to me, which, at the very least, is probably "bright" and "hyperreal" to most other people.

Hopefully this Schiit amp doesn't arrive broken. If it does, you can bet that I will whine a ton in this thread, but unlike the Jotunheim R, I will actually RMA it, haha.

 

[Orlok]

A recent SR1a convert here and I absolutely love mine. I use the Chord stack of HMS | TT2 | TToby to drive it and it sounds sublime. Amazing detail retrieval, resolution, clarity, imaging and soundstage. I mainly listen to classical, jazz, acoustic and vocal music so the SR1a seems perfectly suited for what I enjoy the most. The SR1a is also great for ambient electronic but not so good for EDM, hip hop and bass heavy modern pop. It just doesn't have enough bass slam or sub bass to be an ideal fit for that kind of stuff.

For rock, blues, metal and roots-oriented music, I'm not so sure. I feel that there's more detail than I want to hear with genres like these - mainly with highly overdriven electric guitars. It's also very unforgiving for older (50's through most of 80's) analog and lo-fi recordings, even remastered stuff. It's best for modern hi-fi and hi-res recordings IMHO. I still love my LCD-4. It's at the opposite end of the sonic spectrum from the SR1a but that's why I love it. Lots of bass, warmth, forward mids, and lushness are good too. I have the 1266 TC coming very soon so it'll be very interesting to compare that to both and find out where it will sit - physically and metaphorically!

Overall, I absolutely love the SR1a. I know that it isn't for everyone and wouldn't recommend it to someone who prefers a more relaxed and warm/lush presentation. I like treble and even lots of treble as long as it's smooth and sweet and not piercing or harsh. The SR1a has loads of treble energy but in a positive way.

 

[Duncan_McCloud]

A recent SR1a convert here and I absolutely love mine. I use the Chord stack of HMS | TT2 | TToby to drive it and it sounds sublime. Amazing detail retrieval, resolution, clarity, imaging and soundstage. I mainly listen to classical, jazz, acoustic and vocal music so the SR1a seems perfectly suited for what I enjoy the most. The SR1a is also great for ambient electronic but not so good for EDM, hip hop and bass heavy modern pop. It just doesn't have enough bass slam or sub bass to be an ideal fit for that kind of stuff.

For rock, blues, metal and roots-oriented music, I'm not so sure. I feel that there's more detail than I want to hear with genres like these - mainly with highly overdriven electric guitars. It's also very unforgiving for older (50's through most of 80's) analog and lo-fi recordings, even remastered stuff. It's best for modern hi-fi and hi-res recordings IMHO. I still love my LCD-4. It's at the opposite end of the sonic spectrum from the SR1a but that's why I love it. Lots of bass, warmth, forward mids, and lushness are good too. I have the 1266 TC coming very soon so it'll be very interesting to compare that to both and find out where it will sit - physically and metaphorically!

Overall, I absolutely love the SR1a. I know that it isn't for everyone and wouldn't recommend it to someone who prefers a more relaxed and warm/lush presentation. I like treble and even lots of treble as long as it's smooth and sweet and not piercing or harsh. The SR1a has loads of treble energy but in a positive way.

Is that a custom headband ?

Thanks

 

[paradoxper]

Is that a custom headband ?

Thanks

Looks like ZMF's Pilot Pad.

 

[dieslemat]

A recent SR1a convert here and I absolutely love mine. I use the Chord stack of HMS | TT2 | TToby to drive it and it sounds sublime. Amazing detail retrieval, resolution, clarity, imaging and soundstage. I mainly listen to classical, jazz, acoustic and vocal music so the SR1a seems perfectly suited for what I enjoy the most. The SR1a is also great for ambient electronic but not so good for EDM, hip hop and bass heavy modern pop. It just doesn't have enough bass slam or sub bass to be an ideal fit for that kind of stuff.

For rock, blues, metal and roots-oriented music, I'm not so sure. I feel that there's more detail than I want to hear with genres like these - mainly with highly overdriven electric guitars. It's also very unforgiving for older (50's through most of 80's) analog and lo-fi recordings, even remastered stuff. It's best for modern hi-fi and hi-res recordings IMHO. I still love my LCD-4. It's at the opposite end of the sonic spectrum from the SR1a but that's why I love it. Lots of bass, warmth, forward mids, and lushness are good too. I have the 1266 TC coming very soon so it'll be very interesting to compare that to both and find out where it will sit - physically and metaphorically!

Overall, I absolutely love the SR1a. I know that it isn't for everyone and wouldn't recommend it to someone who prefers a more relaxed and warm/lush presentation. I like treble and even lots of treble as long as it's smooth and sweet and not piercing or harsh. The SR1a has loads of treble energy but in a positive way.

Does your sound diffusers/absorbers help the Sr1a bring out more clarity?
Just kidding