[jlbrach]

if anyone out there has heard both the 1b and the new tube amp I would appreciate a comparison and a subjective reason to buy the tube version or upgrade from the 1b?...thanks

 

[yyzSB]

if anyone out there has heard both the 1b and the new tube amp I would appreciate a comparison and a subjective reason to buy the tube version or upgrade from the 1b?...thanks

Compared to the HSA-1b, the VM-1a seems to sound a bit clearer to me. It also is sounds incredibly powerful in Pentode mode. I had some expensive preamp and amp combos that I liked more than the HSA-1b, the very best being the KRELL Duo 175XD + CODA 07x preamp (about $16K combined). I liked this combo more than the HSA-1b. However, I liked the VM-1a much more than the CODA + KRELL combo. I subjectively said about 25% better, which is a lot.

I also had a CODA #8 amp which I used with the CODA 07x preamp for the SR1a. I was reluctant to sell the #8, since it was so good. However, I needed the money to buy the VM-1a. The VM-1a was so much better. After hearing the VM-1a I figured no 2-channel amp could surpass it since the 2-channel has to go through the resister box.

There were 2-channel amp combos that I liked over the HS1-1b, such as, CODA 07x +CODA #8 and CODA 07x + KRELL Dou 175XD. A few other 2-channel combos I tried were not as good as the HSA-1b, such as, Benchmark AHB2, Benchmark LA4 preamp, LSA Voyager 350 GAN, Parasound A21+, and D-Sonic Class D stereo amp, and Schitt Freya+ premp.

I currently have the VM-1a and the Schitt JR in different rooms. I use both but I am thinking I should get the HSA-1b to replace the JR. The JR is not as good as the HSA-1b.

 

[jlbrach]

Compared to the HSA-1b, the VM-1a seems to sound a bit clearer to me. It also is sounds incredibly powerful in Pentode mode. I had some expensive preamp and amp combos that I liked more than the HSA-1b, the very best being the KRELL Duo 175XD + CODA 07x preamp (about $16K combined). I liked this combo more than the HSA-1b. However, I liked the VM-1a much more than the CODA + KRELL combo. I subjectively said about 25% better, which is a lot.

I also had a CODA #8 amp which I used with the CODA 07x preamp for the SR1a. I was reluctant to sell the #8, since it was so good. However, I needed the money to buy the VM-1a. The VM-1a was so much better. After hearing the VM-1a I figured no 2-channel amp could surpass it since the 2-channel has to go through the resister box.

There were 2-channel amp combos that I liked over the HS1-1b, such as, CODA 07x +CODA #8 and CODA 07x + KRELL Dou 175XD. A few other 2-channel combos I tried were not as good as the HSA-1b, such as, Benchmark AHB2, Benchmark LA4 preamp, LSA Voyager 350 GAN, Parasound A21+, and D-Sonic Class D stereo amp, and Schitt Freya+ premp.

I currently have the VM-1a and the Schitt JR in different rooms. I use both but I am thinking I should get the HSA-1b to replace the JR. The JR is not as good as the HSA-1b.

Compared to the HSA-1b, the VM-1a seems to sound a bit clearer to me. It also is sounds incredibly powerful in Pentode mode.
can I ask you to expand upon what you mean by sounding powerful...I have the 1b

 

[yyzSB]

I wrote about it earlier in this thread. With the VM-1a and the CA-1a the Led Zeppelin song "When the Levee Breaks" I felt I like was watching an in-studio performance. I could feel the music, especially the drums. With other gear I love the song, but it feels like I am listening to a song not as engaged with the music. The VM-1a is a 10/10 for me, the CODA+KRELL 8/10, the HSA-1b 7/10, and the JR 5/10. I enjoy the JR very much when I crash in my bed with my head and CA-1a on a pillow.

I sold some speakers today and went to an audio store in Los Angeles to hear the Rotel Mitchi integrated amp (did not have the M8 mono). I listened to some new B&W speakers, and I played "When the Levee Breaks". It was good but I remember thinking it was not as powerful sounding as on the CA-1a and VM-1a.

With the VM-1a, with either the CA-1a or SR1a, I am always thinking that whatever music I am playing it sounds so good. I get distracted a lot, in a good way, with this amp. I was not that distracted with the HSA-1b.

 

[carboncopy]

A quick follow-up...the RCA tubes are here, the hiss in pentode mode is the same as with the stock tubes. Otherwise it functions without problem. Cannot say too much about the change in sound quality, I used the stock tubes about 30 hours, now this. Either way it sounds really good and I am just too lazy too swap back and forth the tubes to analyse the differences.

Maybe I am too sensitive to hiss and this is normal?

 

[FLTWS]

A quick follow-up...the RCA tubes are here, the hiss in pentode mode is the same as with the stock tubes. Otherwise it functions without problem. Cannot say too much about the change in sound quality, I used the stock tubes about 30 hours, now this. Either way it sounds really good and I am just too lazy too swap back and forth the tubes to analyse the differences.

Maybe I am too sensitive to hiss and this is normal?

Could be dependent on age and hearing acuity and other health related conditions. There's no stopping the aging process. I no longer hear much above 8K so any noise component above that frequency will be less audible to me.

 

[RickyV]

Hi @FLTWS in my quest for a replacement 6SN7 for the VM-1a i noticed you have a few these tubes, have you tried them on the VM-1a?
The Linlai and the Treasure Globe look intriguing.

 

[FLTWS]

Hi @FLTWS in my quest for a replacement 6SN7 for the VM-1a i noticed you have a few these tubes, have you tried them on the VM-1a?
The Linlai and the Treasure Globe look intriguing.

I haven't gotten my VM-1a yet, my dealer is still awaiting delivery, they were expected 6/30.

I've been using those two tubes in my LYR3 and 2 different OTL's for several years. They are both fine sounding tubes. Perhaps the Treasure Globe a touch more "tubey" the Linlai a touch more linear. But both tubes have what I would call "non-standard" shapes and the top plate of the VM-1a is crowded. Before spending the money for either you might want to know if space is adequate, not just from a physical standpoint to plug them in, but heat generation too if the glass bulbs of the surrounding tubes are too close where the Linlai and TG are at their at their widest diameters. Looks like there is adequate space from the photos of the VM-1a I've seen.

Since I already have both I will see how they fit when I get my VM-1a, but I have 50 or so other NOS 6SN7's of standard shape and various sonic flavors so I'll be fine regardless.

Maybe if anyone here has either of those 2 tubes and a VM-1a could chime in...

Edit: when my VM-1a arrives I will take a photo of each tube installed and post them here.

 

[RickyV]

Hi @FLTWS in my quest for a replacement 6SN7 for the VM-1a i noticed you have a few these tubes, have you tried them on the VM-1a?
The Linlai and the Treasure Globe look intriguing.

The shortest distance is to the driver tubes from the middle to tube is 3.5 cm. With the Linlai being 5.6cm wide the distance between the two glas is 0.7 cm. For the TG being 58.5cm wide so between glas it’s 0.58 cm. According to the grant fidelity website 0.5 cm is max.

 

[FLTWS]

The shortest distance is to the driver tubes from the middle to tube is 3.5 cm. With the Linlai being 5.6cm wide the distance between the two glas is 0.7 cm. For the TG being 58.5cm wide so between glas it’s 0.58 cm. According to the grant fidelity website 0.5 cm is max.

If that 3.5cm is from the center of the driver tube (the 6sn7) to the glass of the front two EL-34's on either side, which are used to provide high current/voltage swing capability, then both tubes will fit physically, if a bit tight, and it becomes a matter of heat being thrown off by the driver tube (in this case the Linlai or Treasure Globe). While heat rises up there is still some throw off from the sides of the tubes. Whether or not this will have any affect on any of the tubes I have no idea. I may find out in time.

 

[FLTWS]

It's difficult working from a photo and the manual I downloaded (assuming its to scale) indicates the the center of the 6SN7 is the same distance from the center of the 2, 3, 5, and 7 tube sockets.

 

[RickyV]

It's difficult working from a photo and the manual I downloaded (assuming its to scale) indicates the the center of the 6SN7 is the same distance from the center of the 2, 3, 5, and 7 tube sockets.

No, from the center of the 6sn7 it’s 3.5 cm to driving tubes glass and 4 cm to the output tubes Glass.
the distance between both driving EL34’s is 7 cm.

 

[FLTWS]

I would always opt for max ventilation especially considering the price of those two. From Grant Fidelity website:
"We recommend to leave at least 10mm (1cm) between tubes (glass to glass I believe they are referring to) to allow sufficient air circulation."
And that's what I'll go by as far as whether I use those two tubes or not and most likely I'd hope for more breathing room .

https://premiumvacuumtubes.com/category/guide/

The dimensions on that chart are mm. My standard straight side 6SN7's appear to be a hair under 30mm wide
My Treasure Globe was made by Shuguang before Linlai came into being and Linlai doesn't seem to have a similar item in the works in a 6SN7 type.

There appears to be adequate room for both to meet the 10mm / 1cm spacing. But again, I'd like a little more if I can get it.

 

[fredfung28]

Hi, does anyone use Yatono Ultimate 8 wires HP for headphone ? Hope to know whats the sound, thinking of ordering for Sr1b
Or anyone has tried to use DHC, or other high-end headphone cable maker's cable on Sr1a/b? Thanks!
Also, may I know if the accuratesound Convolution Filters is good for Sr1a or not? Or I just need the OB filter is fine?

Does anyone compared with the digital filter and OB barrel? I am quite curious which will sound better.

Thank you!

 

[Sandro Sena]

Does anyone compared with the digital filter and OB barrel? I am quite curious which will sound better.

Through a series of connections (loopout, preamp, splitter/isolation XLR box, etc.), my system accommodates three amplifiers all fed by only one DAC, one of them being the Schiit Jotunheim R, so compensation via digital eq was not a solution (but I don't use digital eq in general). So I risked buying the analog OB compensation barrels, which Raal sells together with its new interface, to avoid using the JotR's active compensation switch, which, according to my perception, is a merciless killer of the SR1a, and the result was VERY VERY good, maintaining the explosive dynamics and transparency of this aluminum divinity. For those who own the JotR and cannot yet "upgrade" to the new stuff that costs 7k, I emphatically suggest analog compensation, a wonderful solution.

Sorry, my dear Schiit. Certainly without you I couldn't enjoy the wonders of the SR1a, but that switch is criminal, audiophile police case, haha.