[ThanatosVI]

This is a Raal SR1a thread, but now that it has a bit sidestepped for a moment:

If one switches to STAX headphones from any Dynamic-, Planar Magnetic-, A.M.T.- or Ribbon-headphones:
The difference is huge, and the amp used only contributes 5%, at best, to this difference.

A STAX SR-009, SR-007, SR-L700 or other model can easily and favourably be driven from a SRM-1 MK2 Professional (can be found in good condition for 500 bucks) to 95% of it’s capabilities, and cleanly way beyond healthy loudness levels.

Some will want a little bass-boost to balance the STAX’s enormous transparency, this is better achieved by EQ than hoping a different amp will do the job.
Once you get a little bit more used to the STAX’s house sound the boost might even become obsolete, depending on the music.

My point: you don’t need to spend a fortune to experience the STAX sound, as a refreshing alternative to ...

Can you recommend some energizers to connect to speakeramps?

I have an amazing speakeramp and only need a fitting energizer to get me going with eStats.

Right now I only know about
Woo WEE
IFi Pro iESL

Sorry for off topic

 

[dukeskd]

Can you recommend some energizers to connect to speakeramps?

I have an amazing speakeramp and only need a fitting energizer to get me going with eStats.

Right now I only know about
Woo WEE
IFi Pro iESL

Sorry for off topic

Stax SRD-7

 

[KaiSc]

Can you recommend some energizers to connect to speakeramps?

I have an amazing speakeramp and only need a fitting energizer to get me going with eStats.

Right now I only know about
Woo WEE
IFi Pro iESL

Sorry for off topic

If you can, get a STAX “SRD-7/MK2“ (that’s exactly what’s written on it’s front).
Watch out it really has one “Pro Only” lettered 5-pin connector, as the model does NOT carry the “Pro”-designation In it’s name.
It’s got a very good sound and has no level limitation in the bass.
Pay 200 bucks max.
Avoid the SRD 4, 5 or 6 models, and anything with “self-bias”.

In the long run having a real amp, like the mentioned SRM-1/MK2 Professional might be the more convenient solution.
These go for little money and are close to the best STAX ever built.
Don’t go for the STAX tube amps, I have the feel no two sound the same.

I wouldn’t pay a significant amount of money for a transformar based solution like the mentioned Woo Wee etc.
Buy cheap or buy an amp.

 

[ThanatosVI]

Stax SRD-7

If you can, get a STAX “SRD-7/MK2“ (that’s exactly what’s written on it’s front).
Watch out it really has one “Pro Only” lettered 5-pin connector, as the model does NOT carry the “Pro”-designation In it’s name.
It’s got a very good sound and has no level limitation in the bass.
Pay 200 bucks max.
Avoid the SRD 4, 5 or 6 models, and anything with “self-bias”.

In the long run having a real amp, like the mentioned SRM-1/MK2 Professional might be the more convenient solution.
These go for little money and are close to the best STAX ever built.
Don’t go for the STAX tube amps, I have the feel no two sound the same.

I wouldn’t pay a significant amount of money for a transformar based solution like the mentioned Woo Wee etc.
Buy cheap or buy an amp.

Thx for the recommendations.
Do you by any chance know how good the Mjölnir Audio amps/energizers are?

Since you mentioned it "no level limitation in the bass" is especially Important to me

 

[KaiSc]

Thx for the recommendations.
Do you by any chance know how good the Mjölnir Audio amps/energizers are?

Since you mentioned it "no level limitation in the bass" is especially Important to me

Amps have a very easy job driving electrostats in the bass.
Almost no load at all.
STAX SS amps are DC coupled, no low frequency limitation.
For an E-stat-amp the limitations are in the treble, lot‘s of current necessary.
This is why tube amps do soften the transients, may even distort at higher levels.

Transformers that interface to an existing speaker amp CAN, but MUST NOT limit the frequency extremes, SRD-7 doesn‘t.

The better STAX SS E-stat-amps go full level over the whole frequency range.
Only in the latest version amps STAX fashionable and unfortunately reduced NFB.
NFB keeps the amp under control, not enough NFB, no control, stupid!
So avoid the latest STAX amp models.

 

[bemeurer]

I’m curious, what do people think is the best counterpart to the SR1A? I love mine, but I’ve been wanting to try something else and not sure what to go for. I mostly listen to Jazz.

 

[KaiSc]

I’m curious, what do people think is the best counterpart to the SR1A? I love mine, but I’ve been wanting to try something else and not sure what to go for. I mostly listen to Jazz.

A counterpart should offer something that is not covered, while keeping the sound quality level.
My suggestion: Hifiman HE-1000.

I have the original, 1st version and like it very much on Jazz, and other genres.
It’s very natural, open sounding, with unlimited bass range (opposed to SR1a) and airy treble.
Ever so slightly v-shaping takes away from the boxy sound tendency a significant number of Jazz recordings have, due to their production circumstances.

Fun to listen to.

 

[Ciggavelli]

I’m curious, what do people think is the best counterpart to the SR1A? I love mine, but I’ve been wanting to try something else and not sure what to go for. I mostly listen to Jazz.

The Abyss AB 1266 Phi TCs are a great counterpart. They present bass in a completely different way, while at the same time having great resolution and imaging.

 

[Sajid Amit]

The Abyss AB 1266 Phi TCs are a great counterpart. They present bass in a completely different way, while at the same time having great resolution and imaging.

+1

 

[Sajid Amit]

Anyone has recommendations on short speaker cables that you have liked, when connecting the Raal interface box with your stereo amps? Or for connecting the Hifiman HE-adapter with said amps?

I am not looking for night-and-day sonic differences, but want to use good quality cables.

Thanks!

 

[BassicScience]

Anyone has recommendations on short speaker cables that you have liked, when connecting the Raal interface box with your stereo amps? Or for connecting the Hifiman HE-adapter with said amps?

I am not looking for night-and-day sonic differences, but want to use good quality cables.

Thanks!

Speaking in general, Supra Ply 3.4 is excellent cable for the money, both in terms of sonics and construction.

 

[cAsE sEnSiTiVe]

I'm using Nordost Heimdall 2 between the box and my amp. No complaints here. Never used the cables that came with the Raal.

 

[Articnoise]

Anyone has recommendations on short speaker cables that you have liked, when connecting the Raal interface box with your stereo amps? Or for connecting the Hifiman HE-adapter with said amps?

I am not looking for night-and-day sonic differences, but want to use good quality cables.

Thanks!

Speaker cables affect the sound much more than many people think, at least with speakers, and if you are looking for the best SQ, you have to shell out , IME.

 

[kaki023]

@Sajid Amit how are you feeling about the primaluna evo 400 compared to the 200 with the sr1a? if i'm not wrong your forum signature had the 200 at first, so i assume you upgraded unless i am mistaken or it was a typo. i enjoy my jotunheim r for now, but i am looking for an upgrade eventually

 

[yyzSB]

Anyone has recommendations on short speaker cables that you have liked, when connecting the Raal interface box with your stereo amps? Or for connecting the Hifiman HE-adapter with said amps?

I am not looking for night-and-day sonic differences, but want to use good quality cables.

Thanks!

I use Audience Conductor SE. I took a 4 meter cables and chopped it up to 3 cables. It has proven very useful this past 2 weeks as I compare 3 amps with the RAAL. I also have the Audience FrontRow cable for my RAAL. It is better but costs a lot. I maybe selling 1 of my Conductor SE's. I have to decide if I sell an integrated amp that I am getting back from repairs on Monday. I will make a decision on that by next Monday at the latest.