[MrCypruz]

I recently got the HSA-1b. It is amazing for the SR1as; like a big improvement from the JotR. But, there's not enough power for the Susvaras, even with the Ribbon output. I mean, it sounds good, for sure, but the bass is lacking for hip-hop. I find that I prefer the Susvaras out of the WA33, where they sound better and have better bass. I don't regret buying the HSA-1b though. It's so, so good with the SR1as

Not sure if you changed the dip switches configuration to 0 dB attenuation. If not, your HSA-1b is attenuating the input signal from your DAC by -6 dB or -10dB. You’ll have to open the unit to make the change.

 

[Shahrose]

Not sure if you changed the dip switches configuration to 0 dB attenuation. If not, your HSA-1b is attenuating the input signal from your DAC by -6 dB or -10dB. You’ll have to open the unit to make the change.

I remember you told me this before. I wonder what the purpose of this attenuation is.

 

[MrCypruz]

I remember you told me this before. I wonder what the purpose of this attenuation is.

The input attenuation is mostly used in studio settings due to the usually “hot” input signals from pro gear. The SR1a was initially marketed, to some extend, for professional work but it happened to also be highly praised by the audiophile community that’s why RAAL-requisite went back to the drawing board to accommodate their direct-drive amplifier to satisfy both worlds (professionals and audiophiles).

Pro users Will most likely be using the -10dB attenuation while monitoring using the SR1a.

Audiophiles will most likely be using 0 dB attenuation to get the pure signal from their DACs while using either the SR1a or conventional headphones.

 

[tunes]

The input attenuation is mostly used in studio settings due to the usually “hot” input signals from pro gear. The SR1a was initially marketed, to some extend, for professional work but it happened to also be highly praised by the audiophile community that’s why RAAL-requisite went back to the drawing board to accommodate their direct-drive amplifier to satisfy both worlds (professionals and audiophiles).

Pro users Will most likely be using the -10dB attenuation while monitoring using the SR1a.

Audiophiles will most likely be using 0 dB attenuation to get the pure signal from their DACs while using either the SR1a or conventional headphones.

What is the factory settings for this???

 

[MrCypruz]

What is the factory settings for this???

My unit came with -10 dB attenuation if I’m not mistaken. Below is the chart showing different dip switches configurations.

 

[tunes]

My unit came with -10 dB attenuation if I’m not mistaken. Below is the chart showing different dip switches configurations.

Thanks for the illustration but please explain again what the best setting is for the SR1a for audiophile listening and what setting is also best for the Susvara or Abyss headphones?

 

[MrCypruz]

Thanks for the illustration but please explain again what the best setting is for the SR1a for audiophile listening and what setting is also best for the Susvara or Abyss headphones?

I would recommend 0 dB attenuation (the one on the right) to get the pure incoming signal from your DAC delivered to the HSA-1b headphones’ outputs.

 

[Njychen]

I would recommend 0 dB attenuation (the one on the right) to get the pure incoming signal from your DAC delivered to the HSA-1b headphones’ outputs.

Where are the switches located?

 

[FLTWS]

Where are the switches located?

Inside rear

 

[FLTWS]

My HSA-1b came delivered at -6db. (Maybe it’s just wherever they finish testing/measuring completed products before shipping). I’ve run at all 3 settings and am currently on 0db (I wish they had put a toggle switch on the outside to simplify, even on the back panel would have been fine by me.

Not sure I hear much difference if any between the 3 settings. But useful range of the volume control is best at -10db for both balanced and single ended inputs.

On 0db I’m pretty much between 9 and 10 on the volume control if I use the balanced input and with some recordings 9 is to low and 10 too high, for me. 0db on the single ended input works better with a range for me between say 13 and 18, so far.

It also seems that the lower volume control settings make a larger change than further up the dial. Above 10 seems to be smaller increments of change making it easier for me to fine tune the level.

0db also seems to reduce the front to back sound stage distance and bring midrange forward on voices especially, but it’s still early days (1 week) and I haven’t put a sound level meter to the different settings yet because of the how it’s done and the time involved in between changing settings and listening.

 

[Ciggavelli]

Perhaps a stupid question, but how do you open up the HSA-1b? The screws on the top are circles, and even with the appropiate tool, I can't unscrew anything. Also, I was reading about opening up the HSA-1b, and apparently that could void you warranty. So, I dunno

 

[FLTWS]

If the screws on your unit are round sounds like the same type as on my Formula S/Powerman. Maybe that takes a special torque type I am unfamiliar with. The screws on my HSA-1b are these Hex types

I doubt RAAL would put a user adjustment inside the unit and then say opening it voids the warranty. Plus a seal of some sort is usually affixed to at least one edge where the cover and bottom chassis come together so you can't remove the cover without tearing the seal.

These are the screws used on my Formula S

 

[FLTWS]

Perhaps one of these types

 

[yyzSB]

If you do not figure this out I will post a link or photo of the tool I used later. I am too busy to get that sorted out now.

 

[Ciggavelli]

So, I did some close up looking. It’s actually a hex screw

I thought I had the right tool, but I dunno. It fits the hex, but still I can’t unscrew it