[Njychen]

Well, I ordered 2 fancy pants slo-blo 2 Amper's earlier so I'll be ready. Going to let the stock fuse run for months, if no issue I'll try the "anointed" ones to hear what.....I'm not sure, LOL.

May I ask where from? I want to be fancy pants too....

 

[FLTWS]

May I ask where from? I want to be fancy pants too....

PM'd you.

 

[Shahrose]

Interesting, I wonder what could be causing this? Well, I find out for myself soon enough. I've had 1 blown fuse in 6 decades and that required a repair and was years ago.
I notice both you and @Njychen are in Canada, although I can't figure why that should make a difference, still 115 volt, right?
Haven't seen this mentioned at all in some of the reviews and only 1 other posting than yourselves that I'm aware of.
Anyone here in the US experience this? I better order in a few fuses, LOL!

Canadian problem eh? Actually Danny said it has happened to his unit multiple times. Luck of the draw I guess. He conjectured it may be something to do with it being designed for Serbian voltages initially.

 

[FLTWS]

Googely says;

"In Serbia the standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. You can use your electric appliances in Serbia, if the standard voltage in your country is in between 220 - 240 V (as is in the UK, Europe, Australia and most of Asia and Africa). Manufacturers take these small deviations into account."

Maybe its the dual voltage transformers they use in the build.

Anyway, expensive audio jewelry fuse on the way to save the day (maybe)

 

[FLTWS]

HSA-1b ordered, should be here Tuesday. Backup fuses arrive Monday.

 

[makan]

I am just trying my subpac at the lowest level possible with the Raals and it is quite a pleasant bass boost and listening experience. Try it out.

 

[bearcatsandor]

I am just trying my subpac at the lowest level possible with the Raals and it is quite a pleasant bass boost and listening experience. Try it out.

Tell me more! Which model do you have, and do you think it could be a viable alternative to a subwoofer? How do you have it all hooked up (what's your signal path)?

 

[tunes]

HSA-1b ordered, should be here Tuesday. Backup fuses arrive Monday.

Is RAAL audio working on fixing this problem. The amp cost $5k. Seems that they should provide the extra fuses if it’s a known issue and fix the problem on future production runs.

 

[tunes]

HSA-1b ordered, should be here Tuesday. Backup fuses arrive Monday.

Is ordering from RAAL the only way to get it? Coupon codes? Other dealers for discount off list price?

 

[FLTWS]

Is RAAL audio working on fixing this problem. The amp cost $5k. Seems that they should provide the extra fuses if it’s a known issue and fix the problem on future production runs.

Well, there is a very high probability I won't have any issues. I haven't had any with any gear since I got back into hi-er-fi audio in Jan 2016 and I've gone thru, and presently own, a lot of different stuff.

Also, I've followed the forums here on the gear I've auditioned and owned and have read of issues some have had with all manner of components and various brands and I have yet to experience any previously mentioned problems with any brand of component type that I auditioned or presently own, to date.

Should I run into any I would mention it on the appropriate thread.

 

[FLTWS]

Is ordering from RAAL the only way to get it? Coupon codes? Other dealers for discount off list price?

Plenty of dealers sell the brand so it can be purchased, for example, in the US from a number of US dealers, or in other countries from RAAL's dealer network there.

https://raalrequisite.com/dealers/

 

[makan]

Tell me more! Which model do you have, and do you think it could be a viable alternative to a subwoofer? How do you have it all hooked up (what's your signal path)?

Sonos Connect RCA at half volume out to sub pac 3.5mm line in while Sonos optical out to RME ADI-2 pro then XLR out to Jot R.

I have an older subpac s2 I think.
The volume on the subpac is quite loud at minimum so it is at an absolute minimum and requires a separate line it that has independent volume out control vs that going to the headphones

 

[tunes]

Before any of the direct drive amplification solutions were even a thing, I had the AHB2 driving the SR1a. It had enough power to drive them with authority but it sounded lifeless, flat, clinical and was ultimately returned. o my ears, a Schiit Vidar power amp did a better a job than the AHB2, and even better in dual monoblock configuration. I ultimately settled with a SPL Performer s800 power amplifier.

Then the JotR was released, I liked it for the form factor and its ability to drive the SR1a with grunt and control for such a tiny box...but it still wasn’t better than the Performer s800 power amp. The JotR sounded thin, shouty and harsh in comparison. Fast forward a few months and the HSA-1a was released, it was a massive improvement over the JotR driving the SR1a but the conventional headphone output was mediocre. The traits of the HSA-1a when compared to the JotR can be summarized as a much better treble presentation - a lot less harsh but you could replicate that at loud volumes, improved clarity, expanded soundstage, better bass definition.

RAAL-requisite went back to the drawing board and the HSA-1b became a reality, mostly based on the feedback from early adopters of the HSA-1a. The HSA-1b is the HSA-1a on steroids, it does everything better, the most noticeable improvement being the conventional headphones output.

So the short version of my answer to your question is, based on my experience and my preference, the HSA-1b will do a better job highlighting the strengths of the SR1a and will drive them to levels that I don’t believe the AHB2 would be able to.

To the untrained nonaudiophile listener, will there really be a significant, very noticeable difference between the SR1a + JOT R vs SR1a + HSA-1b
if you could do quick volume matched A-B listening? I have been slightly disappointed with the trade off between adequate low end bass with the wings closed in and the expansive soundstage with the wings open. Will the addition of the HSA-1b fill this gap?

I am not into EQ.

I am listening now with a CHORD HUGO2 but have a DAVE and will also use it. So bottom line, would keep the JOT-R for portability on vacations and the HSA-1b for home setup if the $4500 upgrade makes sense just as a headphone amp. May one day get either Susvara or Abyss TC.

 

[Bonesy Jonesy]

To the untrained nonaudiophile listener, will there really be a significant, very noticeable difference between the SR1a + JOT R vs SR1a + HSA-1b
if you could do quick volume matched A-B listening? I have been slightly disappointed with the trade off between adequate low end bass with the wings closed in and the expansive soundstage with the wings open. Will the addition of the HSA-1b fill this gap?

I am not into EQ.

I am listening now with a CHORD HUGO2 but have a DAVE and will also use it. So bottom line, would keep the JOT-R for portability on vacations and the HSA-1b for home setup if the $4500 upgrade makes sense just as a headphone amp. May one day get either Susvara or Abyss TC.

I had the SR1A's linked to my Chord Mezzo 140 Speaker Amp (via the Conversion Box) and had my Hugo 2 as the DAC connected to my Chord Prima Pre-Amp. I didn't like the sound coming from the SR1A's even though it sounded a lot better than previously using the Jot R. I found the sound from both the Mezzo 140 and Jot R very thin and non musical sounding although the clarity was expectional. The bass wasn't so good with no sub bass at all.

I have the Susvara also linked to my Chord Mezzo 140 direct. I also have a DAVE directly connected to the Mezzo 140. The sound from the Susvara's is fantastically good and way way above the sound I was getting from the SR1A especially with the bass and sub bass.

The SR1A's were clearer and had very good seperation with instruments extra but the overall sound from the Susvara is memorising across all the frequency range. Even with the Hugo 2 connected to the Chord Prima Pre-amp and then to the Mezzo 140, the sound from this system with the Susvara's is still far better to my ears than the SR1A.

So if it was my money I would definitely go for a Susvara based system rather than an SR1A although if you have a good Speaker Amp for the Susvara's you can also buy the SR1A's and use the same Speaker Amp. A few Head-Fi members do have both !

 

[paradoxper]

I had the SR1A's linked to my Chord Mezzo 140 Speaker Amp (via the Conversion Box) and had my Hugo 2 as the DAC connected to my Chord Prima Pre-Amp. I didn't like the sound coming from the SR1A's even though it sounded a lot better than previously using the Jot R. I found the sound from both the Mezzo 140 and Jot R very thin and non musical sounding although the clarity was expectional. The bass wasn't so good with no sub bass at all.

I have the Susvara also linked to my Chord Mezzo 140 direct. I also have a DAVE directly connected to the Mezzo 140. The sound from the Susvara's is fantastically good and way way above the sound I was getting from the SR1A especially with the bass and sub bass.

The SR1A's were clearer and had very good seperation with instruments extra but the overall sound from the Susvara is memorising across all the frequency range. Even with the Hugo 2 connected to the Chord Prima Pre-amp and then to the Mezzo 140, the sound from this system with the Susvara's is still far better to my ears than the SR1A.

So if it was my money I would definitely go for a Susvara based system rather than an SR1A although if you have a good Speaker Amp for the Susvara's you can also buy the SR1A's and use the same Speaker Amp. A few Head-Fi members do have both !

LMAO that wasn't even his question, Bonesy.

The HSA-1b is not transformative in that relation. You have to simply choose either open staging or closed adequate bass.