Without headphones or the interconnect to my car plugged in the J3 has no issues (and no value )). As soon as I plug something in the output (in other words try to use it), The J3 battery meter (artificially) goes to 0 and shuts down. If I plug an output in before I turn on amp, the battery meter shows the accurate charge until I use a function on the amp (gain switch or volume) then it drops to 0 and shuts down. Battery is not actually 0 boots back up showing full battery and w/o amp runs fine.
I use a D4 also and have no such issue,
I worry iBasso will think its a J3 issue and start a week long thread of e-mails with me. I do not know electronics so maybe there is a likely cause I can test for or just make a safe assumption and report it back to iBasso to streamline the exchange.
Like maybe loop-back, feedback, polarity, short.. I am just throwing out words here P
So Ibasso says the J3 must be sending out a DC output and it needs service. The J3 is the unit shutting down not the T3, how could an output problem on J3 be the issue?
Here is the reson they say it is not happening with D4 - Does this make sense if it is the J3 shutting down?
The T3 is +/- power supply design. Therefore, it doesnt need DC blocking cap.
The D4 is single power supply design, it has DC blocing cap inside.
If your player has DC output, it can still work fine with the D4.
Please test the T3 with other player. If it works fine, the problem suppose to be the DC output on the J3. You should contact the manufacturer for warranty. High DC output can damage your headphone.
Pleaes check the T3 with other player first and get back to us.
Get hold of a cheap digital multimeter set to the mV range and a mini to mini cable. Plug one end into the J3 and then play music - then put one DMM probe on the ground part of the jack (the one closest to the body of the plug) and then put the other probe on the middle and tip parts alternately. Note what readings you get for each part; if they're over about 50mV, then we have a problem.
Thanks.. I have an analogue meter and used that (tested on battery first). The I tested the J3 as you suggested
I had no reading using all 3 of the dcv levels (15, 150, 1000). If memory serves me, you are supposed to use a voltage setting higher than expected output but I tried all to be safe.
You'll almost certainly need a meter with a 2000/200mV range for DC offset. If you are getting 15V of offset then that's a pretty impressive feat from a presumably ~5v battery. I wouldn't worry about using a too-low setting - at these tiny voltages you're very unlikely to fry anything.
Not quite. Were your measurements in millivolts (mV) or volts (V)? You'll be using the former rather than the latter. 2000mV is the same as 2V, it's just that multimeter manufacturers like to be confusing. So if your meter only goes down to 15 volts, you'll need a significantly finer measurement to read DC offset, which is normally in the range of 0-20 millivolts.
Yeah, it looks like it only goes down to 15V DC. A DMM, even a cheap one, is a good thing to have around, but before that try Googling around a bit to see if anyone else is having a problem with J3 DC offset before you make an investment.
Thd J3 would reboot, most probably, if ur amplifier was putting the headphone out of the J3 at some voltage (which ur measurements made sure is the case).
I'd recommend not connecting the T3 to the J3 at all. Don't even try, might just kill it. I once killed an iPod, by providing it a little voltage to the headphone out.
Tell them the J3 is fine. Or that u got the J3 replaced but the problem persists. Act like a total noob infront of them, knowing nothing. Say i don't understand what u are talking about, all i know is that i got my J3 replaced and ur T3 still messes with it. My dad says its the amp, please replace it, or atleast perform some diagnostic tests on it.
Regards
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