Potentially ruined UE Super.FI 5 Pro
May 23, 2011 at 7:47 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 10

ChooseBlues

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Hi guys, joined the forum today when I was in dire need to some info on what to do about my beloved phones being broken.
 
I've had a decent search but I couldn't find any clear info on what's best to do so I thought you lot would know best.
 
I've taken a photo of the problem (below). The right strand of the wire  (which seems to have different connector in the way it attaches itself to the actual ear-peice) has snapped off and sheared off the wires...
 
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/153/rps20110523130403.jpg/
 
I was wondering if this can be repaired, or if I simply have to suck it up and buy a new pair, real shame because they were about 140 pounds.
 
Thanks guys
 
 
 
May 23, 2011 at 8:25 AM Post #3 of 10
Hey, thanks for the reply. I have a rough idea of what you mean, yet nothing is gonna just slip into a connector. the part that goes into the earphone looks like the wire has snapped, and the actual earphone has a chunk of plastic broken off.
 
May 23, 2011 at 8:39 AM Post #5 of 10


Quote:
It's a glued in bit that came off. happened to a Long past UE I owned. If you're diligent, You can probably split the cases and solder it back on. Some glue and away you go, Worst case is that you still have something to customize.



Actually, worst case is that you have a broken driver destroyed by the heat from the soldering iron.
 
You should see if you can get a quote on how much it'd cost to get them made into customs, including the amount it'd cost to get the earmoulds from the audiologist.  If it costs too much then you'd just have to buy a new one.
 
(actually, maybe you should see about buying a pair of TF10s from the forum's FS board.  I saw some that were for sale internationally for $185)
 
May 23, 2011 at 9:08 AM Post #6 of 10
Id get a quote to see about repairs, if it's too much you could always upgrade to TF10.  I see that kind of damage a lot, or the wires pulled out from the socket part.
 
May 23, 2011 at 9:26 AM Post #7 of 10
Cheers guys. I think they are dead. The casing is too firmly in place and wouldnt open at all. I used a penknife blade which probably wasnt the best idea but then I didn't have special tools and so they are a bit scratched up. I also have no soldering iron and little mor experience than soldering basic wires so I guess I have to buy a new pair and look after them with my life.
 
Such a shame tho, to say I was in love with the phones is no word of lie haha.
 
Which would you recomend as a repacement, are they still a good buy in that price-range?
 
thanks again
 
May 23, 2011 at 9:33 AM Post #8 of 10
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/554452/brand-new-original-ue-triple-fi-10-pro
 
I guess you could give this a try, see if they're still available.  They usually go for around this or a bit cheaper...if they're not available here, you could wait around a bit and see whether a new one shows up soon.
 
May 23, 2011 at 10:57 AM Post #9 of 10
Same thing happened to mine. I'm about to try fixing them, haven't got around to it yet. If you do decide to give this a go, check out this thread: http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/441659/super-fi-5-pro-diy-repair
 
May 23, 2011 at 2:41 PM Post #10 of 10


Quote:
Actually, worst case is that you have a broken driver destroyed by the heat from the soldering iron.
 
You should see if you can get a quote on how much it'd cost to get them made into customs, including the amount it'd cost to get the earmoulds from the audiologist.  If it costs too much then you'd just have to buy a new one.
 
(actually, maybe you should see about buying a pair of TF10s from the forum's FS board.  I saw some that were for sale internationally for $185)



The wires are still there and long enough as the solder connection broke off of the terminal. No driver soldering required but obviously this isn't something for someone that doesn't know how to solder. I would think that a given. BAs aren't as heat sensative as dynamics anyway. Biggest problem would be inadvertantly desoldering the lead in wire when soldering on the external lead.
 

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