I maxed it out on the photos on p.782 and they didn't smudge. The worst effect I can see on my monitors was that the leg of the cigarette vendor which had a lamp reflection on it looked like it was made of brown Barbie plastic. Then again, Olympus' software is worse - at max setting, there was still too much visible noise left, and the details were smudged. The most horrible aspect of this software though is how much RAM it needs to run - it's slow, and it slows down my laptop if it's on Eco mode. LR has no issues at that battery-sipping processor setting though. Still, it might be worse at higher ISO's, but the thing is with the weather here I won't really go past ISO3200 anyway; beyond that even the RAW file is smudged beyond repair.
Some current otherwise decent compact cameras have visible noise at base ISO - mostly the ones with better ergos and a viewfinder. What's frustrating isn't that in itself, but that there are pocket cams with larger sensors that do better than those, that it kinda felt like manufacturers said, "OK, you want dedicated buttons and a viewfinder of some sort, or a tiny one with a large sensor?"
Yes but not directly. I think it has a lot to do with the sensor's heat, but of course ambient heat plays a factor in that - running it 5mins in a tropical climate at 24degC vs running it 5mins in a desert (both at night) at an average of 10degC isn't just "a few degrees." A friend who works for Canon (oddly enough uses Nikon) also says that in addition to heat, tropical climates tend to have more dust in the air, and theoretically that can add to noise in long exposures. Dust particles typically don't show up at fast shutter speeds though.
What camera are you using? A lot of smaller sensors tend to have some noise even at low ISO, even on the bright areas in the frame. Darker areas tend to show it more though. Oh, and some software are better at removing it than others - "High" setting on Olympus' image suite isn't as clean as setting it to maximum on Lightroom, given the same RAW file.
I had to lay flat on my stomach for this one. The daisies looked so nice and I wanted to include the old fence in the background. Photo taken one beautiful day in my aunt's garden in the northern parts of Sweden.
I'm using a Canon EOS 500D which was purchased on 2009-2010 [can't remember correctly]
Is four years old, old enough to have a new DSLR? xP Noises is extremely noticeable at 1600 ISO. 800ISO is what I am using at the moment.
as for the most recent picture I posted, I just double checked. It is crystal clear on my PC, but not sure why it looks so bad when uploaded...
500D's not too old to replace, my E-P2 isn't as good with low light and noise but it still gets the job done; if it's clear on your PC then there's nothing lacking with the camera for hte most part.
Anyway, even for the E-P2, the only really frustrating bit about it is that when we have parties I can leave it hanging off my shoulder, unlike the guys with DSLRs, but when the scene gets dark smartphones can AF faster and more accurately. I'd get the 12/2 since it has a smoother (more natural-feeling) manual focus mechanism and a distance scale, but at that price, I decided to wait around and just upgrade the body instead, possibly transfer to a new system too.
Ya, I have a very special romance with the FE2. Back in photography school, I purchased a black FE2 just for school. In photography school everybody is swinging their gear around. One lucky thing was my instructor also used Nikon so I had a couple more lens to use. I seemed to luck out and get the right camera. Automatic shutter priority in auto exposure too, much better to have the camera choose the shutter in relation to the f stop used, in my book.
My folks let me barrow the family Nikkromat but I wanted the latest thing. Nikon only made the FE2 for 5 years, though you could still find em new at the dealers in 1989.
Back in 1985 it seemed for me the FE2 was really expensive. I was a starving student.Not sure what it would be in inflation current dollars? Still though, it was way ahead of it's time. You had sycro-sun flash at 1/250th of a second for cool open Fstops in bright sun.
If you think back flash synchronization could be 1/30th or 1/60th or 1/125th of a second then, so it was cool. You had a 1/4000th of a second shutter, which is still considered fast. But the reason I bought one was for the TTL Flash metering.
I could put my Nikon flash on a SC-17 cord and get TTL Flash in micro shots! An unheard of thing in 1985! You could hold the flash 1/2 inch from a micro-shot subject and get perfect exposure!
I will never forget developing my own roll of slide film and finding every single shot of slide film perfectly exposed. No bracketing and only one shot of each subject. Unheard of at the time! That's the FE2. 36 slides of a different subject all on one roll, exposed perfect!
I learned my stuff on a K1000 and an FE. The FE2 was and still is a dream of mine. My FE needs service, but I've checked online prices. Servicing mine would cost more than purchasing a new one...
The multi-leaf titanium honey-comb shutter was a new thing when the FM2 came out. I don't remember seeing it again with all the company pro film Nikons I used over the years.
Amazingly you can now buy a Nikon F10 film body with a 35mm to 70mm zoom lens for USD $319.00, brand- new!
I didn't really touch the eyes; she did get a digital rhinoplasty and a new jaw (Liquify is a useful tool, but difficult to master), but the big issue was in fact her skin. Fixing blemishes and overall tone while preserving skin texture non-destructively takes a long time, and I can't get the workflow consistent. Some people take <20 minutes, others take hours.
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