[silent-circuit]

System is getting long in the tooth, hoping to do a full rebuild in the next year or so - I'm waiting for the next major graphics generation to come out. For now...

Ryzen 5 3600 CPU
Gigabyte X570 I Aorus Pro WiFi Motherboard
32GB Gskill DDR4 3200 RAM
Zotac AMP RTX 2080 GPU
2 x 2TB WD SN850X NVME SSDs
Lian Li x Dan A4 H20 Case
Deepcool 240mm AIO CPU Cooler
LG 65" 4K OLED Display
(Usually run games 2560x1440@120Hz)

It's basically our entertainment center, games and video. Connected to a MiniDSP DDRC-24 for room correction and a pair of JBL 305P Mk2 powered monitors, which do pretty well in our smallish living room.

 

[Eagle_Driver]

I have had many computers since Head-Fi was launched way back in 2001, but my current system consists of:

• Intel i7-12700K
• 64 GB DDR4-3600 RAM (yes, I stuck with DDR4 rather than moving to DDR5 RAM for the time being)
• GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER (carried over from my previous AMD Ryzen 9 5900X PC, which I stopped using due to its abnormally high idle power consumption, and subsequently sold off)
• Two 1 TB Samsung 980 PRO m.2 PCI-e 4.0 SSDs

Will be getting a new GPU within the next few months.

Updated that system. Same CPU, but replaced one of my 1 TB 980 PRO's with a 2 TB model, then upgraded to a GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, then finally replaced both the motherboard and RAM with an Asus TUF Gaming Z690 PLUS WIFI (the DDR5 version) and 64 GB of DDR5-5600 RAM. I did this because every single BIOS update of my previous DDR4 motherboard completely destroyed my Windows key (one that was linked to my Microsoft account, and which apparently embeds itself into the BIOS of the MSI board that I previously had, thus permanently tying the license key to the existing BIOS that was installed on the board at the time of activation (or in my case, I had to keep paying Microsoft the full price with each and every single BIOS update as the Windows key is never revealed, and could not be retrieved at all from the BIOS, and then every single attempt at reactivating Windows completely failed with each BIOS update). This makes me think that MSI really, really wanted me to either pay the full OS cost every time I update the BIOS or purchase a copy of Windows 10 or 11 from a retail store for a serial number key version.

And has anyone noticed that if you normally log into a Microsoft account via a Windows Hello PIN every time you start up Windows, every BIOS update from MSI and Gigabyte (in my experience) corrupts the stored PIN code, forcing me to enter a new PIN code with each and every BIOS update?

And for the record, the removed SSD and GPU ended up in my brother's PC that's equipped with an AMD Ryzen 5 5600X CPU and 32 GB of DDR4-3200 RAM on an Asus PRIME X570-P motherboard.

 

[silent-circuit]

Updated that system. Same CPU, but replaced one of my 1 TB 980 PRO's with a 2 TB model, then upgraded to a GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, then finally replaced both the motherboard and RAM with an Asus TUF Gaming Z690 PLUS WIFI (the DDR5 version) and 64 GB of DDR5-5600 RAM. I did this because every single BIOS update of my previous DDR4 motherboard completely destroyed my Windows key (one that was linked to my Microsoft account, and which apparently embeds itself into the BIOS of the MSI board that I previously had, thus permanently tying the license key to the existing BIOS that was installed on the board at the time of activation (or in my case, I had to keep paying Microsoft the full price with each and every single BIOS update as the Windows key is never revealed, and could not be retrieved at all from the BIOS, and then every single attempt at reactivating Windows completely failed with each BIOS update). This makes me think that MSI really, really wanted me to either pay the full OS cost every time I update the BIOS or purchase a copy of Windows 10 or 11 from a retail store for a serial number key version.

And has anyone noticed that if you normally log into a Microsoft account via a Windows Hello PIN every time you start up Windows, every BIOS update from MSI and Gigabyte (in my experience) corrupts the stored PIN code, forcing me to enter a new PIN code with each and every BIOS update?

And for the record, the removed SSD and GPU ended up in my brother's PC that's equipped with an AMD Ryzen 5 5600X CPU and 32 GB of DDR4-3200 RAM on an Asus PRIME X570-P motherboard.

Bizarre. Never had any such issue with a BIOS update... But I mean, keys are cheap. Certainly cheaper than a new board.

 

[Eagle_Driver]

Bizarre. Never had any such issue with a BIOS update... But I mean, keys are cheap. Certainly cheaper than a new board.

Not only that, but my performance scores with that DDR4 board were about 10 percent slower than it should have been, particularly with creator apps. Either I switch the board or buy a higher-end CPU - either option being expensive.

As it turned out, either MSI is using relatively loose secondary timings for the DDR4 memory or DDR4 itself is holding the CPU’s performance back.

 

[SilverEars]

The 4K Max is way more stable than the OG (1080p) fire stick I had prior. I forget what version it is, but I think I bought it in 2017 or 2018. There were just some things that would not play via Plex. Or it would play, but I'd get no sound. Just issues like that. And it stuttered a lot on playback. I should note most of my Plex library is 1080p. I don't have a lot of 4K content. I'm way behind on updating my displays. They won't seem to die, and I hate replacing things just to replace them.

The firestick 4K Max has wi-Fi 6, whereas the 4K has wi-fi 5. It's been stable so far for me. The 4K Max also has a little more processing power and memory over the 4K stick. The only thing I can't get it to play nice with is remote play via Steam Link app. It links to my Steam Deck fine, but there is lag between controls and screen. I don't have this problem on the Shield TV, but it's also hardwired to my router. So maybe that has something to do with it.

As for Plex transcoding, I think there's options on both the server and client app to configure that could help with your issues. If it didn't transcode on the B6 but does with the C2, I would think it's a setup issue perhaps. Plex updates sometimes break things that worked on older versions, so it could be an older Plex version worked better on LG.

I use the PS5 as a Plex client when I want to watch movies with my Audeze Maxwell. I haven't yet tried the Maxwell with the Shield TV, but it should work. All of my other PC wireless headsets work with it, using one of the USB slots for the wireless dongle.

I just upgraded my router from AC to AX, but I went all out overkill, and this fixed the bandwidth issue I had with streaming 4k on my network. My wireless network has ridiculous amount of bandwidth now!

I got the AX11000. This thing has 11000 kbps bandwdith in total! Rediculous. No issues with 4k vids buffering during directly play anymore. So, the buffering issue with directplay is likely a wifi bandwidth issue. I recommend looking into getting a router with better throughput. You don't even need the Firestick 4K max version, the regular 4k version works just fine with this router. This router is ugly as sin since it's a 'gaming router.' it's a bit of an eyesore. I don't get why gaming has to look like this. Everything looks like toy for 5 year olds.

 

[Radio81]

I just upgraded my router from AC to AX, but I went all out overkill, and this fixed the bandwidth issue I had with streaming 4k on my network. My wireless network has ridiculous amount of bandwidth now!

I got the AX11000. This thing has 11000 kbps bandwdith in total! Rediculous. No issues with 4k vids buffering during directly play anymore. So, the buffering issue with directplay is likely a wifi bandwidth issue. I recommend looking into getting a router with better throughput. You don't even need the Firestick 4K max version, the regular 4k version works just fine with this router. This router is ugly as sin since it's a 'gaming router.' it's a bit of an eyesore. I don't get why gaming has to look like this. Everything looks like toy for 5 year olds.

Really cool. I'm waiting until WiFi 7 before I upgrade my eero mesh system. Due to the layout of my home, multiple routers have worked better for me than a single.

 

[Coq de Combat]

PC:
i9-10900K
64 GB RAM
1080 ti

Mac:
M1 Max
32 GB RAM
32 cores gpu

 

[SilverEars]

 

[ThEvil0nE]

Build started out from a hand-me-down Ryzen 7 3700x and Radeon 5700 after son did upgrades to his rig.
Wanted a post modern vintage look with minimal RGB. North case with a tube like glow on the inside was the idea

Upgraded to Ryzen 9 5900x (Amazon prime day too good to pass price)

Case: Fractal North
CPU: Ryzen 9 5900x
Cooler: Montech Metal DT24 premium
GPU: Radeon 5700x
RAM: PNY Xlr8 32gb
SSD: WD Black SN850X 2tb
PSU: Seasonic Focus PX-750 platinum
Mobo: Asus B550m plus wifi II

 

[SilverEars]

I recently got a 4TB WD Black 850X, which doesn't come with it's really neat looking heatsink. I've been doing some research and this video seemed quite interesting. Mine is Gen 4. People know that Gen 5 is worth getting a heatsink for, but there is a split in opinions on the Gen4s.


this guy explains why the ssd manufacturer's heatsink cools better.


With and without sticker


WD black heatsink does look pretty cool.

 

[ThEvil0nE]

I was looking at 3 SSDs and settled with the SN850X. It is very industrial looking. A very well designed and thought-of heatsink. Black anodized heatsink, simple white fonts with orange activity LED just look badass with performance to back it up and fits perfect for my build theme.

You can still get away without a heatsink as long as you have good case airflow.

 

[SilverEars]

 

[SilverEars]

I was looking at 3 SSDs and settled with the SN850X. It is very industrial looking. A very well designed and thought-of heatsink. Black anodized heatsink, simple white fonts with orange activity LED just look badass with performance to back it up and fits perfect for my build theme.

You can still get away without a heatsink as long as you have good case airflow.

I received my 850X without heat sink and this guy was right, Pelote heatsink works well. I also found out whoever built my MSI prebuilt didn't take off the plastic on the conductive adhesive on the Mobo's heatsink. The plastic essentially works as an insulator, which was the reason why my 850X was 52C stock with it on. Pelote heatsink from China is legit. It does bring it down to 36C and peaks to 54C at most when running Crystal Disk Mark.



And my Gen 3, Adata that peaks at 3.5kMB/s doesn't need a heatsink. Highest it went was 50C. So, Gen 3s do not need heatsinks.

Working on PC is the most backbreaking work next to working on cars. I'm too old for this crap! All these screws being dropped, and hunching over, and small spaces as odd angles on the desktop sucks. It reminded me why I hate building desktop PCs.

Pelote heatsink on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Heatsink-Radiator-Cooling-Silicone-Double-Sided/dp/B07PG3VRQ4

Just found out all this crap was wrong. Initially it was 36C after install of the heatsink, but went back up to 54C. My NVMe is situated between the CPU and GPU because that's the pcie lanes to the CPU, which has the widest bandwidth. But, since it's between CPU and GPU, it's at 54C on normal usage. I'm not sure if the heatsinks really does anything now. Because the temp goes up to 71C at peak with Crystal Disk Mark whether I use the stock Mobo heatsink or the Pelote. I have no idea if the Pelote is underperforming or that the location where it cannot dissipate the heat through the heatsink due to high ambient temps around the CPU and GPU.

This is annoying as sin. God I have swapping crap out inside the desktops. It's pain in the ass.

 

[texx2818]

5800X
64GB RAM
RTX 3080
Ultrawide Alienware OLED
Linux Master Race

 

[ThEvil0nE]

I received my 850X without heat sink and this guy was right, Pelote heatsink works well. I also found out whoever built my MSI prebuilt didn't take off the plastic on the conductive adhesive on the Mobo's heatsink. The plastic essentially works as an insulator, which was the reason why my 850X was 52C stock with it on. Pelote heatsink from China is legit. It does bring it down to 36C and peaks to 54C at most when running Crystal Disk Mark.



And my Gen 3, Adata that peaks at 3.5kMB/s doesn't need a heatsink. Highest it went was 50C. So, Gen 3s do not need heatsinks.

Working on PC is the most backbreaking work next to working on cars. I'm too old for this crap! All these screws being dropped, and hunching over, and small spaces as odd angles on the desktop sucks. It reminded me why I hate building desktop PCs.

Pelote heatsink on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Heatsink-Radiator-Cooling-Silicone-Double-Sided/dp/B07PG3VRQ4

Just found out all this crap was wrong. Initially it was 36C after install of the heatsink, but went back up to 54C. My NVMe is situated between the CPU and GPU because that's the pcie lanes to the CPU, which has the widest bandwidth. But, since it's between CPU and GPU, it's at 54C on normal usage. I'm not sure if the heatsinks really does anything now. Because the temp goes up to 71C at peak with Crystal Disk Mark whether I use the stock Mobo heatsink or the Pelote. I have no idea if the Pelote is underperforming or that the location where it cannot dissipate the heat through the heatsink due to high ambient temps around the CPU and GPU.

This is annoying as sin. God I have swapping crap out inside the desktops. It's pain in the ass.

Or you can get single sided SSD and do it the old school way with copper shims or copper ram sinks.