[kenman345]

I figure I'll spend the time to use it a lot first, then the money to upgrade parts like the stylus. I can always just use the stylus on a new turntable provided getting a new cartridge. Also, I am using a cheap Pre-amp. I probably will upgrade it as the first actual upgrade after setting it up. My friend needs a cheap pre-amp and I couldn't justify the purchase of a somewhat better pre-amp till I actually used it on a regular basis. Next week when I get my D1+ I'll have all the pieces to the puzzle and finally be able to listen to the turntable properly. 
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Great deal! My first table was a direct-drive Technics SL-QD33 (P-mount tonearm, same as the BD20). It served me well for almost five years. Then upgraditis kicked in, BIG time 

 

[samsquanch]

Today I got my christmas present to myself...
 
 

 
Technics SL-1200 mk 2
 
I got it for $200 from a local record shop, being friends with the owner has its benefits!
 
I need to do some work to it, but that's part of it being cheap.  On the list:
-Dust cover and Hinges
-Adjust pitch, spins to slow at +0
-Replace +0 pitch led
-Rewire the signal cables to the circuit board, the cable broke, and whoever "fixed" them did a sloppy job, there's a hose clamp involved...
 
I forgot to print out an alignment chart while at work today, so I'll do that tomorrow then set up the DL-110 cart I bought for it.
 
It came with a Grado XT+ cart, which I know is on the low end of Grado's line, but I've read on other sites that an 8MZ stylus (which people seem to be in love with) fits, now since there's more to a cartridge than just a stylus, is it worth putting a $100 stylus on an old cart, or should I just save money and buy a Gold1 Prestige in a few months?  After listening to the XT+ I liked how warm it was, even though it was noticeably worn, it wouldn't be an all the time thing, but for the occasional album I wouldn't mind having the option.
 
TL;DR:  Is it worth replacing an XT+ stylus with an 8MZ?
 
 
I'm real excited, I've wanted a 1200 for a long time, and I'm super antsy to start working on it, going to try my hand at rewiring the tonearm, oh boy oh boy oh boy!

 

[analogsurviver]

Quote:

Today I got my christmas present to myself...
 
 

 
Technics SL-1200 mk 2
 
I got it for $200 from a local record shop, being friends with the owner has its benefits!
 
I need to do some work to it, but that's part of it being cheap.  On the list:
-Dust cover and Hinges
-Adjust pitch, spins to slow at +0
-Replace +0 pitch led
-Rewire the signal cables to the circuit board, the cable broke, and whoever "fixed" them did a sloppy job, there's a hose clamp involved...
 
I forgot to print out an alignment chart while at work today, so I'll do that tomorrow then set up the DL-110 cart I bought for it.
 
It came with a Grado XT+ cart, which I know is on the low end of Grado's line, but I've read on other sites that an 8MZ stylus (which people seem to be in love with) fits, now since there's more to a cartridge than just a stylus, is it worth putting a $100 stylus on an old cart, or should I just save money and buy a Gold1 Prestige in a few months?  After listening to the XT+ I liked how warm it was, even though it was noticeably worn, it wouldn't be an all the time thing, but for the occasional album I wouldn't mind having the option.
 
TL;DR:  Is it worth replacing an XT+ stylus with an 8MZ?
 
 
I'm real excited, I've wanted a 1200 for a long time, and I'm super antsy to start working on it, going to try my hand at rewiring the tonearm, oh boy oh boy oh boy!

Yes. 8 MZ stylus is best bang for the buck in all Grado line. People tend to replace Prestige Gold 1 stylus with 8MZ.  It is OK to use it on any Grado with replaceable stylus, but try to get low impedance Grado body too - it is considerably more open sounding. Please note that Grados are prone to hum pickup, low output more because they require higher gain. Try your existing setup first and see if it is bothersome to you - some hum pickup with Grado will be inevitable, particularly at the innermost grooves on close proximity with the motor.
 
The same caveat with DD holds true for verly low output MCs.

 

[samsquanch]

Quote:

Yes. 8 MZ stylus is best bang for the buck in all Grado line. People tend to replace Prestige Gold 1 stylus with 8MZ.  It is OK to use it on any Grado with replaceable stylus, but try to get low impedance Grado body too - it is considerably more open sounding. Please note that Grados are prone to hum pickup, low output more because they require higher gain. Try your existing setup first and see if it is bothersome to you - some hum pickup with Grado will be inevitable, particularly at the innermost grooves on close proximity with the motor.
 
The same caveat with DD holds true for verly low output MCs.

 
 
Ok, it's kind of moot at this point, since I'm selling my old table to a friend who doesn't have a cartridge, so I'm putting the grado on that.  I'll save up some money and possibly buy a gold 1 this summer.  Thanks for the heads up!

 

[deviate2112]

Here's my living room analog system...this system sound way better then it should!  Ariston Turntable, KRK Rockit special edition powered monitors, Maverick Tube magic, ProJect phono stage
 
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u229/Deviate2112/BF3642DE-67A5-45AF-8EBA-0FC5A4674773-5679-00000AEA25517749.jpg

 

[calipilot227]

Nice table! 

 

[jackskelly]

 
TECHNICS SL-1200MK2; Far from the "best" turntable, but an awesome one.

 

[fleasbaby]

TECHNICS SL-1200MK2; Far from the "best" turntable, but an awesome one.

True, not the best, but still a thing of beauty...I still can't bring myself to upgrade mine to something begged and better...

 

[jackskelly]

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True, not the best, but still a thing of beauty...I still can't bring myself to upgrade mine to something begged and better...

 
I've heard better turntables, one's that cost $100,000, but for the value, the 1200 MK2 still set the standard, and since they've stopped making them, they'll only increase in value.

 

[calipilot227]

Although a Denon DL-110 might be a better cart for that table, nice rig nevertheless. 

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

Quote:

 

Spoiler: Image

 
 
TECHNICS SL-1200MK2; Far from the "best" turntable, but an awesome one.

Good god why is the cart so far up?

 

[analogsurviver]

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Good god why is the cart so far up?

Because of the correct cartridge alignment. Please see my post with pics in the turntable setup thread. With 1200/1210, almost in all cases you will have to push the cart all the way from the arm bearing and angle it slightly towards the main TT bearing in order to have correct alignment on both inner and outer null points, which guarantees best sound.  

 

[Quinto]

I seriously doubt it's the correct alignment and I'm pretty sure I'm not alone in this (I used to have the same set up), but heck, if it sounds good to you

...
 

 

[analogsurviver]

Quote:

I seriously doubt it's the correct alignment and I'm pretty sure I'm not alone in this (I used to have the same set up), but heck, if it sounds good to you

...
 

Alignment ( Baarwald IIRC)  at 66.0 and 120.9 mm - the only way to get it with 1200/1210. I had precisely combo with M97xe here two weeks ago and from such distance it looked exactly the same. All turntables I adjust get measured with test records and an oscilloscope - any misalignment has absolutely no chance to hide.  They perform as they should.
 
Needless to say, it sounds good.
 
If anyone starts now with various alignments, I will say then get a linear tracking arm. It can be topic for debate, but only if and when you have actually (had ) your cartridge measured for deviations from perfection. Actual styli errors far outstrip differences among alignments and only small percentage of actual styli of any given model at ANY price earn from me suffix T - which means Tangential and is perfectly aligned in each and every plane. For this reason, deviations from perfect adjustments have to be used in real world to compensate for stylus error - without test records and at least an oscilloscope, Mission Impossible.
 
And some perfectly made actual adjustment of real cartridges actually do look horribly wrong - particularly those for azimuth. Picture yourself how skewed a 3 degree error in cartridge looks like on the mirrored surface  ...and it is not that rare in practice at all. The goal is to get playback stylus positioned as close to the position cutting stylus made the groove - it is all that matters.

 

[analogsurviver]

 
Onkyo CP-5000A from a friend - good belt driven FG servo controlled deck, which means speed is regulated electronically and not by changimg belt position on  2 speed pulley. Has pitch control and strobe. Arm is a bit crude, but it is about average what was available on vintage Japanese TTs. No VTA adjustment. Sounds surprisingly nice with properly adjusted AT95e cart tracked at 1.9 gram (19 mN ).
 
 
This is a photo promised quite a while ago; first read about this/similar in The Absolutre Sound of the day, in review of Sumiko Analog Survival Kit - where something similr was included:

 
Here the close-ups of the "knots" that hold the stretched foam rubber string in place; NO glue whatsoever
 

 

Please note the clearence required for proper operation of the lifting device ( and in the middle of the arm for the arm rest arresting mechanism )
 
Here the material "string" has been cut from with normal scissors  -  the usual foam rubber profile for stopping leaks in doors/windows:
 

 

Please note that whatever "glue/threads/etc" on the flat surface that is otherwise self adhesive mounted to door/window frame, must be removed for our purpose prior to mounting to the arm tube.
 
The purpose of this "string wrap"  is to damp the resonances in the arm tube usually made from metal and sounding, you guessed it, quite metallic.  Although it makes biggest sonical benefits with lower priced vintage gear, its use is by no means limited to those only. Some high mega zoot price designs also showed marked improvement(s). Without going too much into specifics, it will sound quieter in the groove than normal - and that alone is worth a lot.

 
It is very light, adding approx 0.6 gram change upon rebalancing the arm - do not forget to rebalance the arm and  set the VTF you normally use.  The string is wound under as high reasonable tension you can achieve/are still comfortable with. If arm has removable headshell,it is advisable to remove it. If the cartridge has GOOD STURDY stylus guard (not flip guard or anything possible to remove with light force ), you can use this. If you intend to try "string wrap" on some arm sporting unprotected nude naked cartridge  named after bird with a hefty price tag - REMOVE IT FAR AWAY and remount only after your string is securely in place on the arm tube... Goes for ANY cartridge you mind demaging.
 
If your tonearm has sensitive bearings that should not be stressed, it is necessary to remove the arm from the table, apply "string wrap" to the arm tube without putting any stress on the bearings, and then reassemble everything .
 
Please note that I do not assume any responsibiluty for your equipment - this is only general suggestion and you are on your own regarding implementation.
 
How can it sound? 

etc
 
P.S: http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?t=27050