[Tuberoller]

Oily fingerprints ain't gonna cause an internal short like the one you see across the top of that tube. Look at the white burn marks on the remainder of the upper glass(from the inside) and the shorted lead. I've been using tube gear for most of my life(20+ years) and own literally thousands of tubes. I'm sure I know how to handle a tube.

I got no idea why the tube failed and I just thought it might be cool to see a how violently a tube can fail. Don't take any more from this than that. Like I said a few times before,I have seen similar failures of other tubes in other gear.

I don't know guys but perhaps I might know a little something about tubes,electronics and why stuff blows up. You know,being a Firefighter,Electrician and a life-long audio buff and all. Perhaps I could have this type of backround and really not know what I'm talking about or what I'm doing,or maybe I got some other motive

. Think what you will,here is the tube for you all to see. It could happen in any amp at any time.

 

[ProParadox]

I was informing people (those that didnt get to read about the singlepower amp craziness) that:

Quote:

the amp never blew it's own internal fuse which kinda worries me.

I just did it in a rude/roundabout fashion.

 

[bootman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuberoller Oily fingerprints ain't gonna cause an internal short like the one you see across the top of that tube. Look at the white burn marks on the remainder of the upper glass(from the inside) and the shorted lead. I've been using tube gear for most of my life(20+ years) and own literally thousands of tubes. I'm sure I know how to handle a tube. I got no idea why the tube failed and I just thought it might be cool to see a how violently a tube can fail. Don't take any more from this than that. Like I said a few times before,I have seen similar failures of other tubes in other gear.

I wasn't implying you.

(maybe your overzealous friend?)

My response was really for those that were insinuating that the tube failure
could have been something other than just bad luck.
It was only an example. (admittedly a very poor one)
Cool pics though.

 

[Tuberoller]

One more pic. As can clearly be seen,the lead shorted and the glass is burned from the inside and there is thinning of the glass right where the burn occured.

 

[oneeyedhobbit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProParadox Tuberollers profile... Headphone amp inventory: ... "Even some Singlepower junk."

I'd just like to point out that Tuberoller kept this civil, any resulting hostilities in the thread come from that post...

Further, at least tuberoller listens to what he criticizes.

 

[3lusiv3]

Tuberoller, I think you should get rid of any Singlepower amps that you own before they attack you in your sleep.

Let's make it clear right now...I'm only joking.

I like my PPX3.

 

[bhd812]

"tubeblower"



?? sorry had to

 

[ReasonablyLucid]

tuberoller:
Wouldnt the tube had to have lost its vaccum in order for it to smoke?

How does the glass blow open on those things anyway? Could the spark from it shorting out actually have melted/stressed the glass enough for it to shatter like that?

 

[kevin gilmore]

quote
I don't know guys but perhaps I might know a little something about tubes,electronics and why stuff blows up

Then maybe you can explain how the "OPEN" not short happened
to one of the two getters that are absolutely not connected to anything
in the circuit. It would take thousands of volts and a number of amperes
to cause an arc between the plates of the tubes. No such voltage and
current exist in that amplifier.

Maybe the tube was extremely gassy and the glass was weakened due to thermal stress.
When the fillament finally blew due to oxygen inside the glass, then the glass cracked.

Lets look at this a little further.

There are 3 different tubes in the afomentioned amplifier. The first
tube is the input stage. About 40k resistors to B+. If the entire
tube shorted (and i mean every pin to every pin) that would put
an additional load on the high voltage power supply of about 5 watts.
Certainly not enough to blow the fuse anywhere inside the amplifier.
The second tube is the high side driver with an Rp of a few k ohms.
Same thing here, a complete short on the tube would only stress
the next tube and add a few more watts to the power supply.
Third tube, same deal.

It would take at least a 100 watt short on the B+ line to cause
the fuse to blow. There is no way a single shorted tube can do this.
Now it just might be possible to have both output tubes shorted in
which case the fuse would likely blow. Even a fillament short won't
pull enough current to pop the fuse.

There is no way you can tell me that the line conditioner or circuit
breaker would blow without the fuse blowing inside the amplifier first
unless you were already running 110% or more of the circuits rated power.

This whole thread is highly bogus.

 

[Jahn]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin gilmore There is no way you can tell me that the line conditioner or circuit breaker would blow without the fuse blowing inside the amplifier first unless you were already running 110% or more of the circuits rated power.

The Hamster wheel is a powerful thing.

 

[Tuberoller]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin gilmore quote I don't know guys but perhaps I might know a little something about tubes,electronics and why stuff blows up Then maybe you can explain how the "OPEN" not short happened to one of the two getters that are absolutely not connected to anything in the circuit. It would take thousands of volts and a number of amperes to cause an arc between the plates of the tubes. No such voltage and current exist in that amplifier. Maybe the tube was extremely gassy and the glass was weakened due to thermal stress. When the fillament finally blew due to oxygen inside the glass, then the glass cracked. Lets look at this a little further. There are 3 different tubes in the afomentioned amplifier. The first tube is the input stage. About 40k resistors to B+. If the entire tube shorted (and i mean every pin to every pin) that would put an additional load on the high voltage power supply of about 5 watts. Certainly not enough to blow the fuse anywhere inside the amplifier. The second tube is the high side driver with an Rp of a few k ohms. Same thing here, a complete short on the tube would only stress the next tube and add a few more watts to the power supply. Third tube, same deal. It would take at least a 100 watt short on the B+ line to cause the fuse to blow. There is no way a single shorted tube can do this. Now it just might be possible to have both output tubes shorted in which case the fuse would likely blow. Even a fillament short won't pull enough current to pop the fuse. There is no way you can tell me that the line conditioner or circuit breaker would blow without the fuse blowing inside the amplifier first unless you were already running 110% or more of the circuits rated power. This whole thread is highly bogus.

Yeah Kevin,I blew that tube right up for my own entertainment. How do you think the tube became open? It shorted first.

. You know that the amp's fuse did'nt blow, how? You have been incorrect a lot recently and this another one of those times. You may be an engineer but I guess you have very little real working knowledge of how things operate. Not knowing how my house is wired(remember I'm an electrician and audio buff which would likely indicate that I just might have a decent electrical system in my home) requires you to assume that my house breaker and the conditioner did not trip. Obviously you're not familar with "lifted ground" electrical systems or "rapid blow" safety breakers(you know,I might use these after seeing a few houses burn down over the last 10 years). Do a little research and get back to me. Also,we both know a thing or two about the amp in question,is it not possible that there could be a problem with the amp(that is not obvious now) that it did'nt blow the fuse? Like I said,you are assuming.

In the meantime,I said all along that the tube was likely faulty. This thread was for entertainment purposes only and the only thing bogus about it was Mr.Gilmore's poorly informed response.

 

[3lusiv3]

Is there anything that we can do to prevent this kind of blow? Or is it just unlucky that the tube was faulty?

 

[daycart1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuberoller This thread was for entertainment purposes only......

I'm being entertained, thanks! Does anyone have video of audio equipment going kerblammo?

 

[tom hankins]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin gilmore quote I don't know guys but perhaps I might know a little something about tubes,electronics and why stuff blows up Then maybe you can explain how the "OPEN" not short happened to one of the two getters that are absolutely not connected to anything in the circuit. It would take thousands of volts and a number of amperes to cause an arc between the plates of the tubes. No such voltage and current exist in that amplifier. Maybe the tube was extremely gassy and the glass was weakened due to thermal stress. When the fillament finally blew due to oxygen inside the glass, then the glass cracked. Lets look at this a little further. There are 3 different tubes in the afomentioned amplifier. The first tube is the input stage. About 40k resistors to B+. If the entire tube shorted (and i mean every pin to every pin) that would put an additional load on the high voltage power supply of about 5 watts. Certainly not enough to blow the fuse anywhere inside the amplifier. The second tube is the high side driver with an Rp of a few k ohms. Same thing here, a complete short on the tube would only stress the next tube and add a few more watts to the power supply. Third tube, same deal. It would take at least a 100 watt short on the B+ line to cause the fuse to blow. There is no way a single shorted tube can do this. Now it just might be possible to have both output tubes shorted in which case the fuse would likely blow. Even a fillament short won't pull enough current to pop the fuse. There is no way you can tell me that the line conditioner or circuit breaker would blow without the fuse blowing inside the amplifier first unless you were already running 110% or more of the circuits rated power. This whole thread is highly bogus.

Although we got there from different places.....I also agree with your comment about this thread.

 

[john_jcb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom hankins Although we got there from different places.....I also agree with your comment about this thread.

You guys are just too smart. It took Tuberoller a couple of weeks to find just the right defective tube to take pictures of. He then sent one of his agents over to Fermilab who contracted with them to build a device that would make the tube appear as if it blew apart rather than struck with an object. All in all it cost about 7 grand to put those pictures together. I also have it on good authority that this was all paid for by a shadow audio organization. Funds were routed through several countries to avoid detection by the super sleuths here at Head-Fi.