[PeterJensen]

- What have you guys been doing about the screw threads in the cups? Do you just need to force the t50 screws in or have you been tapping new threads?

- What kind of silicone adhesive are people using for the baffle and pad ring? Is the foam gasket the better option?

I have just used the T50 screws in my 2 builds, but I did have to apply a little more force than I were comfortable with... Turned out fine, but I would probably get some of those Mc-Masters screws next time.....

I settled on the foam gasket as I felt that was much more fool proof, and because my prints were slightly off, in which case the foam were easier to work with. As far as I can hear I have not had any issues with leaking, I have excellent bass response incl. good sub-bass...

Images of every step in my build process can be found here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskYjcLW5 (including images of the foam gasket).

 

[paulmazz]

Wow, those came out great.

 

[BuLLeT_BaiT]

Ok, here is my first contribution to this. I modified the cups to have screw adjustable vents like the primes. The STL's and cad file are here on Thingiverse.

Use an M3 set screw. The vent is 10mm long by 1.27mm wide. the threads before the vent are slightly over 10mm. if you want to close it off entirely I would go with an M3X12 if you want the option of completely open; something a little shorter like M3x8 might be a better choice if you don't want any of the screw sticking out when the vent is all the way open.

Hey Balazar, love the bass port redesign. Hope you don't mind, I made a quick remix for use with 2.5mm and 3.5mm connectors and thickened up the connector wall a bit. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2326371.

I've printed a couple of cups out successfully and will test out the bass port shortly.

 

[Balazar]

Wow both of those projects are looking good! That baby is going to have to grow some, or you are going to need to scale down the print size a bit.

I'm excited to see your results your results bullet_bait. I printed a set of the moded cups but haven't had a chance to assemble them yet. I'm away from home right now. For the time being, I will just have to live vicariously through you. Very cool that you get to be the first to try them.

 

[PeterJensen]

I've printed a couple of cups out successfully and will test out the bass port shortly.

Whats that thing to the left? A cut print to show how the connectors fit, or the beginning of an open Open Alpha?

 

[BuLLeT_BaiT]

Whats that thing to the left? A cut print to show how the connectors fit, or the beginning of an open Open Alpha?

Haha no Open² Alpha I'm afraid. It was a failed print due to lifting and warping. I threw it in there because it shows a clear cross section of the connector area. Although... Open² Alpha has a nice ring to it. Could Look into whipping up an open version for s**ts and giggles.

 

[PeterJensen]

Haha no Open² Alpha I'm afraid. It was a failed print due to lifting and warping. I threw it in there because it shows a clear cross section of the connector area. Although... Open² Alpha has a nice ring to it. Could Look into whipping up an open version for s**ts and giggles.

I would definitely like to try making an open back version of the Open Alpha... I would still want to use the same headband, although such a connection to the cup is not the norm for open headphones. Reason being I do not want to have to source other headbands for the project unless I really need to. I guess that could present issues with the sound getting out into the open well enough as such a design has to block right behind the driver. My idea would be to build a back side wave guide into the actual cup that leads the sound from the driver, around the middle where the block is, and to the open back exit...
Everything is on very crude idea state, wouldn't know if such a design is even possible, just plane dumb, or might actually work. Might be fun to do at some point if I ever get time to actually learn using a CAD application (I have access to Solid Works, but not really the time to spend on learning it). I would also reuse the Hi-Rose connectors for this as I already made a cable...

If someone ever post a reasonable design I might just build it as that wouldn't take so much time, and would probably not incur much cost...

PS: AFAIK the Fostex TH500 RP uses the same driver as the T50RP with very minor modifications to the back damping... (Correct me if I am wrong...)

 

[Balazar]

It looks like I won't be home for a while, but I'm working on a little something for PeterJensen. Still figuring out now to model it so that the original head band assembly still works, and make it easily printable at the same time.

 

[PeterJensen]

It looks like I won't be home for a while, but I'm working on a little something for PeterJensen. Still figuring out now to model it so that the original head band assembly still works, and make it easily printable at the same time.

Sounds really interesting. I have both SLA and FDM printers available, if that makes any difference. I suppose most other DIYers primarily have FDM type printers, though.

I really wonder what such a design will sound like, but it would sure be fun to play with

 

[axtran]

I recommend against the Open Alpha, it'll be a waste. The TH500RP uses the same drivers with open backs, and it sounds so, so terrible.

 

[Balazar]

Well here it is is anyone wants to try it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2335662

I was lazy and just used the same hirose mounting holes. Though I like the 3.5mm/2.5mm connectors better. I also have some handy files from Fusion 360 if anyone wants to start editing their own cups. - bullet_bait

 

[axtran]

Anyone know the stock T50RP screw thread diameter? I'm really starting to want to try some heat-set inserts... I'm thinking that they're just M2 screws. Also, do we need some kind of installation tip? I don't see that there's any for the M2 size... a soldering iron and being careful should be just fine.

 

[Balazar]

Soldering iron and be careful. You can hold it to the iron with some needle nose pliers to heat it up a little before you press it in.

 

[PeterJensen]

I recommend against the Open Alpha, it'll be a waste. The TH500RP uses the same drivers with open backs, and it sounds so, so terrible.

Thanks for the warning... But this seems like an itch I just gotta scratch, so I will probably just do it anyways . If they end up sounding horrible, I can always transform them to a normal Open Alpha and give that to someone, or keep it for various experiments with waveguides and such...

Well here it is is anyone wants to try it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2335662

I was lazy and just used the same hirose mounting holes. Though I like the 3.5mm/2.5mm connectors better. I also have some handy files from Fusion 360 if anyone wants to start editing their own cups. - bullet_bait

Thanks a lot. I think I am probably going to do this, althoughI do not know exactly when I will have the time. I need to get drivers first as I have used the 2 sets of T50RP´s that I had lying around. Will probably try using MK3 this time...
I appreciate using the Hi-Rose connectors, will make it easy to just reuse my current cable.

 

[Balazar]

Speaking of waveguides have you seen the waveguides that ZGLISZCZ designed? I have been making my way through the massive T50RP incremental mods and measurements thread and I am just astounded at the work that people have contributed there.