[Dr Jekyll]

Does anyone know a good way to paint the sliders? So far, I know of powder coating or chalkboard paint.

 

[ktmracer12345]

  Does anyone know a good way to paint the sliders? So far, I know of powder coating or chalkboard paint.

You're talking about the rods right? Honestly, I think the chalkboard paint will peel. Powder coating is fairly durable (and used by ZMF). You can consider anodizing (are they aluminum or steel?) or plating (nickel, chrome, gold, etc.). For straight up options and ease of application, it's hard to beat powder coating.

 

[mrspeakers]

We did anodizing on the sliders, that's as hard as it gets.  However, to do black you have to have them stripped first, and we found sometimes the AL of the sliders was porous and would leave voids, so we had to fabricate replacement sliders.  Ergo, powder coat is probably the only viable solution for one-off production.  Don't paint, it'll wear off in microseconds.

 

[Arty McGhee]

no flash
 
 
 
wanted to see if pla or abs made a difference soundwise over the "fake wood" pla i've been using
i've also been having some problems with my hands, so i've been looking for an easier way to finish
i think getting a good looking finish is the hardest part, involving so much sanding, and filling and priming....
 
after some research i decided to give the xtc-3d epoxy a shot
i ran out of the blue abs i was using, so i went with a sort of purplish blue pla i had laying around
printed normally with .2mm layers, 2-3 coats of epoxy with a light sanding between
the results aren't perfect, but i think theres a lot of potential with this stuff,
 
i really didn't like the color at first but when the light hits it the layers reflect in a cool
sort of iridescence, the ridges are still there they just filled with the clear epoxy
i think with a bit more practice some amazing results are possible
 
soundwise i tried to match the builds as close as possible, the fake wood, was very bassy had to make
some adjustments to tone it down, these are pretty even right off the bat, bass is nice, not overwhelming
mids more foreward, highs a bit harsh still working on the tuning, both are very pleasant to listen to
 

no flash
 

flash

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[theweezle]

HM5 pleathers do stretch enough to fit the ring.  Its tight, and I would suggest alpha pads if your budget permits.

 

 

[Arty McGhee]

yeah but c'mon
 
 

 

[Wuthoqquan]

Just wondering if there are any cons in installing the Hirose receptacles (complete with wire leads) to the cups before lining the inside with acoustic foam, leaving just a small hole for the wires to sneak through the foam and reach the driver pads. I'm asking since It has proven quite awkward to install the connector and secure it in place with the nut if the foam is already applied to the cup. The foam adds enough extra width to the cup, which makes it more difficult to rotate the nut.
Is it really a must to line the cups with acoustic foam before installing the Hirose connectors? Wouldn't be easier to proceed the other way around? Unless it is advisable to keep the connector pins exposed, should it be required to disassemble the connector for any reason... but that's the only dis/advantage I can think of.

I've been working on a stencil to make it easier to cut the acoustic foam to the correct size and with the right "indents", so that it can adhere to the concave surface of the cups properly.
Once I'm confident it is accurate enough, I will share it here on this thread, together with a photo of the cups to show the final result.

 

[mrspeakers]

Just wondering if there are any cons in installing the Hirose receptacles (complete with wire leads) to the cups before lining the inside with acoustic foam, leaving just a small hole for the wires to sneak through the foam and reach the driver pads. I'm asking since It has proven quite awkward to install the connector and secure it in place with the nut if the foam is already applied to the cup. The foam adds enough extra width to the cup, which makes it more difficult to rotate the nut.
Is it really a must to line the cups with acoustic foam before installing the Hirose connectors? Wouldn't be easier to proceed the other way around? Unless it is advisable to keep the connector pins exposed, should it be required to disassemble the connector for any reason... but that's the only dis/advantage I can think of.

I've been working on a stencil to make it easier to cut the acoustic foam to the correct size and with the right "indents", so that it can adhere to the concave surface of the cups properly.
Once I'm confident it is accurate enough, I will share it here on this thread, together with a photo of the cups to show the final result.

It's fine to install the connector first.  You might want to loctite the nut in place, it's a drag if the parts work loose.

 

[theweezle]

Just wondering if there are any cons in installing the Hirose receptacles (complete with wire leads) to the cups before lining the inside with acoustic foam, leaving just a small hole for the wires to sneak through the foam and reach the driver pads. I'm asking since It has proven quite awkward to install the connector and secure it in place with the nut if the foam is already applied to the cup. The foam adds enough extra width to the cup, which makes it more difficult to rotate the nut.
Is it really a must to line the cups with acoustic foam before installing the Hirose connectors? Wouldn't be easier to proceed the other way around? Unless it is advisable to keep the connector pins exposed, should it be required to disassemble the connector for any reason... but that's the only dis/advantage I can think of.

I've been working on a stencil to make it easier to cut the acoustic foam to the correct size and with the right "indents", so that it can adhere to the concave surface of the cups properly.
Once I'm confident it is accurate enough, I will share it here on this thread, together with a photo of the cups to show the final result.

So I have done it both ways... my first cup I did with the connector off and then decided the foam was in the way, and wanted the second install to go easier, so I put the connector first and then the foam.  My second cup's foam has super ugly edges and couldn't be put in flat.  Putting the connector second was easier and cleaner, even if it seems annoying at first.  (I didn't use Hirose connectors though).

I wish I had a stencil..... it really makes sense...

 

[Wuthoqquan]

  So I have done it both ways... my first cup I did with the connector off and then decided the foam was in the way, and wanted the second install to go easier, so I put the connector first and then the foam.  My second cup's foam has super ugly edges and couldn't be put in flat.  Putting the connector second was easier and cleaner, even if it seems annoying at first.  (I didn't use Hirose connectors though).

I wish I had a stencil..... it really makes sense...

Point well taken! I will stick to the original instructions then..
.
Yes, the idea of the stencil came from the need to have the right cutouts in place so that the acoustic foam can adhere perfectly to the internal concave surface of the cups, without creating any unaesthetic creases. Unless (and this is something I should probably check!), once the backing paper sheet has been peeled off from the adhesive side of the foam, the plain foam can actually compress/extend enough, as required, providing for a precise application with no wrinkles at all... should that be the case, then a stencil would not be required really.
 
I only tried lining the foam with the back paper layer still on, hence why it was an immediate reaction to think about a stencil. But if the plain foam can actually be "molded" as needed to adhere perfectly on the surface without forming any crinkles, I'd gladly leave the stencil out and simply work directly on the cups, cutting out any excess foam with an exacto knife for a more detailed application.

 

[Wuthoqquan]

It's fine to install the connector first.  You might want to loctite the nut in place, it's a drag if the parts work loose.

Oops! Sorry ... I skipped your reply! Many thanks!

Although, as suggested, the added benefit/flexibility coming from lining the acoustic foam first is likely well worth the extra time and dedication required to keep the installation of the Hirose connector as the second step in the cup preparation. It's certainly true that it would be a pain to remove the foam, if - for whatever reasons - there's the need to access the connector again in the future.

Anyway, I'm still debating if a stencil would really be handy to cut the acoustic foam into the correct shape/size and with the required cutouts, so as to apply it inside the cups without creases/wrinkles. It seems to be a must that proper cutouts be in place, in order for the foam to adhere perfectly flat on the concave surface of the cups... but without the back paper layer, the foam might actually be so soft that it could be possible to stretch/compress it as required to avoid the creation of creases during application. Not sure...

The sample photo in the opening post do not show any seams in the foam, so it's not clear if the piece was prepared with proper cutouts to compensate for the concave surface of the cups, as it would be unquestionably required to do if working with anything stiffer than foam.

 

[theweezle]

Oops! Sorry ... I skipped your reply! Many thanks!

Although, as suggested, the added benefit/flexibility coming from lining the acoustic foam first is likely well worth the extra time and dedication required to keep the installation of the Hirose connector as the second step in the cup preparation. It's certainly true that it would be a pain to remove the foam, if - for whatever reasons - there's the need to access the connector again in the future.

Anyway, I'm still debating if a stencil would really be handy to cut the acoustic foam into the correct shape/size and with the required cutouts, so as to apply it inside the cups without creases/wrinkles. It seems to be a must that proper cutouts be in place, in order for the foam to adhere perfectly flat on the concave surface of the cups... but without the back paper layer, the foam might actually be so soft that it could be possible to stretch/compress it as required to avoid the creation of creases during application. Not sure...

The sample photo in the opening post do not show any seams in the foam, so it's not clear if the piece was prepared with proper cutouts to compensate for the concave surface of the cups, as it would be unquestionably required to do if working with anything stiffer than foam.

I got a wrinkle free spread without the stencil... but by cutting it in 2 halves... placing it down and then trimming accordingly. A stencil would reduce the trimming time significantly.

 

[lenroot77]

Anyone looking for a set of 3D printed parts please pm me. A nice member printed these for me a while back. Selling them for the price I paid; 40 dollars shipped to you.

 

[Wuthoqquan]

A quick update on the progress made, with a couple photos showing the acoustic foam applied on the cups and the Hirose connectors installed. As suggested, the Hirose connectors were installed after lining the cups with the acoustic foam (Akasa Paxmate).
 
I've drawn and used a stencil to help myself in cutting the foam to the correct size and with the proper cutouts, as required to avoid that creases would appear during application. I'll upload the stencil to dropbox and share the link on this thread, should it be useful to those who will "venture" in this project. Some very light adjustments were still necessary after application, but the stencil really made a difference and turned out to make the whole process easier... the holes for the connectors were made after the foam was applied on the cups, in order to ensure an accurate alignment.
 


 
EDIT: Here's the link to the stencil that I've created and used to cut the foam to the correct size, as close as possible. Some fine-tuning and minor trimming will still be required before permanently lining the foam on the cups... but, hopefully, it should help making the whole process a little bit easier. Of course, feel free to modify the stencil and improve it!
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29310109/Acoustic%20Foam%20Stencil%20for%20Open%20Alpha.jpg
 
EDIT 2: Link to the same stencil in PDF format.
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29310109/Acoustic%20Foam%20Stencil%20for%20Open%20Alpha.pdf
 
EDIT 3:
 
New links to the files on my Dropbox account. The files are the same as the ones previously shared in this post but - quite strangely - the public links have been changed by Dropbox. Here below the new ones.
 
JPG version:
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7n4c0ys1q23giy2/Acoustic%20Foam%20Stencil%20for%20Open%20Alpha.jpg?dl=0
 
 
PDF version:
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9zbpokrqz8l1vt1/Acoustic%20Foam%20Stencil%20for%20Open%20Alpha.pdf?dl=0

 

[Arty McGhee]

  A quick update on the progress made, with a couple photos showing the acoustic foam applied on the cups and the Hirose connectors installed. As suggested, the Hirose connectors were installed after lining the cups with the acoustic foam (Akasa Paxmate).
 
I've drawn and used a stencil to help myself in cutting the foam to the correct size and with the proper cutouts, as required to avoid that creases would appear during application. I'll upload the stencil to dropbox and share the link on this thread, should it be useful to those who will "venture" in this project. Some very light adjustments were still necessary after application, but the stencil really made a difference and turned out to make the whole process easier... the holes for the connectors were made after the foam was applied on the cups, in order to ensure an accurate alignment.
 

clean work
looking great
that template would helpful