[kota1]

Some reference pics of (1) DP-X1A & (1) DP-X1 and their boxes, and the Hsabat aftermarket battery

I just ordered a replacement battery for my DP-X1 as it doesn't hold a charge as long as it used to. How difficult was it to swap it out? I saw a youtube video where a guy used a hot air dryer to loosen the glue, take the screen out, dissasemble, etc.

 

[AustinGrayson]

V-line out = Variable-line output
what the ancestors of modern dap called today's high gain... lol

How do I turn it on? I tried to turn on line-out mode while my IEMs were connected to the balanced output on my DPX1A.

 

[AustinGrayson]

V-line out = Variable-line output
what the ancestors of modern dap called today's high gain... lol

Nevermind, just dug up some comments in this thread. It's only available for the European model. Volume regulation feature.

 

[Polky74]

I honestly don't think mine is European because I bought it from Eglobal Central (now closed shop) and it seems to me that the shop shipped from Korea, the setting should be found in the audio settings menu.

 

[carlosgab]

I just ordered a replacement battery for my DP-X1 as it doesn't hold a charge as long as it used to. How difficult was it to swap it out? I saw a youtube video where a guy used a hot air dryer to loosen the glue, take the screen out, dissasemble, etc.

I did mine but had to ask from a handphone repair shop to do the heat gun for me and asked them to pull the screen out. So the screen is connected to the frame by a double sided tape of about 1 to 2mm. After that all you have to use is a precision screw driver. The battery is glued to the metal frame at the back most part of the unit.

 

[Polky74]

I think anyone who fixes phones can do it without too much trouble, once you show them how to do it.

 

[kota1]

I did mine but had to ask from a handphone repair shop to do the heat gun for me and asked them to pull the screen out. So the screen is connected to the frame by a double sided tape of about 1 to 2mm. After that all you have to use is a precision screw driver. The battery is glued to the metal frame at the back most part of the unit.

Thanks, the battery I ordered comes with tools and I have a cell phone repair shop near by I will take it to, will post how it works out, Thanks!

 

[HAWKEYE7]

I have my DP-X1 connected to a Sony TAZH1ES via USB out and the sound is better than my dedicated streamers in my system.
I am going to get a second unit, DP-X1A at a decent price because its locked and the seller doesn't have the PIN from the previous owner.
There is a factory reset port/pin hole on the bottom of the player I have used in the past to reset using a paper clip. Will this reset process work if I buy the locked DAP and try to use it without a PIN code?

This is a question I do not know the answer to. I have never tried using the pin re-set.
It's Ironic because I have just picked up a IBM Thinkpad laptop that I do not have the password to and need to bypass or re-set the password on. I just did a Google search and found a ton of videos on how to do this. You could try searching for specific info on the DP-X1A. If you don't find that try just searching for info on how to bypass/reset Android OS.

 

[Alohax123]

Does anyone have an active link for twrp,as the original link for it have died.Thanks

 

[DBaldock9]

Does anyone have an active link for twrp,as the original link for it have died.Thanks

Just checked, and @damex is still active here on Head-Fi.
You might try sending him a message, asking for copy of the twrp-3.0.2-0-Rai_Zin_32.img file.

 

[jrain]

I just ordered a replacement battery for my DP-X1 as it doesn't hold a charge as long as it used to. How difficult was it to swap it out? I saw a youtube video where a guy used a hot air dryer to loosen the glue, take the screen out, dissasemble, etc.

Since watching a technician in Hong Kong do this in 30 seconds, opening the dpx1 is not a problem; just a little heat and a razor blade to pry gradually around the screen. BUT once open treat with infinite care the two ribbon cables running from the screen to the mother board. These will try to force themselves out of their sockets. The ribbon sockets are of marginal, "single connect" quality, easy to damage beyond utility. I first opened my onkyo to re-solder a headphone socket and managed to keep the ribbons in place. My second opening was to put in a new battery. This time I was too confident, the ribbons pulled out and i was never able to reconnect them to the disintegrating sockets. I had to find another DPX1. Such a little bit of cost saving. In Japan or Korea ... a fix probably could be quickly found. But here in Amsterdam few if any are willing to even consider "board level" repairs.

 

[kota1]

Since watching a technician in Hong Kong do this in 30 seconds, opening the dpx1 is not a problem; just a little heat and a razor blade to pry gradually around the screen. BUT once open treat with infinite care the two ribbon cables running from the screen to the mother board. These will try to force themselves out of their sockets. The ribbon sockets are of marginal, "single connect" quality, easy to damage beyond utility. I first opened my onkyo to re-solder a headphone socket and managed to keep the ribbons in place. My second opening was to put in a new battery. This time I was too confident, the ribbons pulled out and i was never able to reconnect them to the disintegrating sockets. I had to find another DPX1. Such a little bit of cost saving. In Japan or Korea ... a fix probably could be quickly found. But here in Amsterdam few if any are willing to even consider "board level" repairs.

Thanks for the tip. I received my battery and haven't installed it yet, I will take care with the ribbons when I do, thanks.

 

[Steve80]

The only advantage from the Onkyo over the A&K are the two SD slots.
Otherwise the SR15 is a much better package (faster, longer accu lifetime, better SQ, IMHO better GUI, much smaller,...)

Hello from Japan. I have the opposite experience. I owned the SR15 player for three months. And I've been owning the Onkyo players since its release, for many years. I've had the entire range of Pioneer and Onkyo players, small and large ones. I've tried many different players, but I always came back to Onkyo; I've bought DPX1A- 5 times. The SR15 is not a competitor at all. Its only advantage is its size. In all other aspects, its sound quality is much worse, display is much worse, and it distorts like old TN displays at an angle. The performance is roughly the same between them; there's nothing that makes the SR15 faster in everyday tasks. In terms of sound, only top Astell players with Sabre DAC can match its quality.

 

[Polky74]

The old lion roars again...
Many years have passed now but my love for the first DAP is still alive. As they say... you never forget your first love, and that's exactly how it is. This is the DAP that brought me closer to this splendid world and for this I thank it, not only for this, but also because even today it is able to give me emotions like the first time I listened to it. If you still own it and love it like me, try listening to it with the FiiO FH5, an IEM a few years younger than it, but capable of a "magical" synergy with the DP-X1 thanks to the very composed highs and the incredibly low bass, deep, rich in details and nuances combined with mids with very high musicality. Diana Krall does the rest... magical listening full of memories and gratitude. Thanks Onkyo and thanks above all to the music that accompanies all my days.

 

[Helios909]

I'm hoping some very knowledgeable people can help me. I've owned my Onkyo DP-X1A since it was first available on the market. It has brought me countless hours of listening enjoyment with a variety of headphones. Recently, I purchased a pair of Rosson Rad-O headphones. They are rated at 29 ohms impedance, however for balanced 2.5mm TRRS usage, the DP-X1A spec-sheet says that the range should be 32 ohm to 600 ohm and that using headphones outside of this range "may cause damage". Well, wouldn't you know, after listening on normal gain at volumes ranging from 140 to 155 out of 160 for only a few hours total (a few one hour listening sessions), I'm not sure if it's a coincidence, but the right transducer on the phones stopped working. I've done lots of subsequent testing, and the Onkyo seems to still be working perfectly with other headphones, balanced or unbalanced. The Rosson's right can no longer works with anything, and will likely have to be sent in for warranty repair.

My question is now obvious... could this have caused the transducer to fail? I have been reading for hours and hours, and particularly liked this article:

https://www.headphonesty.com/2019/04/headphone-impedance-demystified/

However I'm still not sure I'm any further ahead in understanding this situation. I obviously don't want to use the headphones with the DAP if they are incompatible, although the unbalanced option does seem to fall within the range. Is anyone able to look at the specifications for both the DP-X1A and the Rad-O to advise me correctly?

Rosson Rad-O:

• Frequency Response: 20 Hz – Beyond Audible Range
• Driver: 66mm Planar Magnetic
• Impedance: 29Ω
• Sensitivity: 98 dB

I should also mention that I've been using Final E5000 headphones for years with this DAP, running in balanced, which have the following specification:

• Impedance: 14Ω
• Sensitivity: 93dB

Never had a single issue and they sound perfectly driven by the DPX-1A when compared with my non-portable gear, so I'm confused.

Any assistance would be most appreciated.