[ClieOS]

This should give you an idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClieOS /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have a quick look at iPod's pinout, and I think it is possible to create a male(Fuze)-to-female(iPod) connector just to get the line-out signal. All you need to do is wire: 1) Pin 27 (Fuze) to pin 3 (iPod). 2) Pin 28 (Fuze) to pin 4 (iPod) 3) Pin 29 (Fuze) to pin 2 (iPod)

Note, you still have to jump the pin 7 and 22 on Fuze's side and install some caps on the R/L channels. Also, I am assuming there is no 'activation' pin on iPod's side (I am not an iPod user so I don't know how it works). You will have to test it out for yourself.

 

[reviri]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 14124all /img/forum/go_quote.gif For those interested in using the Fuze LO Cable on the E200 series players. It will not work in the current configuration. I tested with my original lineout cable and no dice. The problem must be that pin 22 on the E200 series does not have the 1-3 volt needed to enable pin 7. When I have time, I'll see if there is a suitable pin to use on the E200 series to feed pin 7 from. If there is, it will be a simple change to the original DIY cables to have the pin 7 jump go to the correct pin instead of pin 22.

We're looking forward that

 

[reviri]

Can't wait for 14124all's report, and I did it by myself.

It works on my e280 V2, what I did is just followed what ClieOS did: jumped the pin #7 and pin #22.

I think the reason is : the e2X0 V2 has the same chip with fuze, but the e2X0 V1 has not.

So if you have a e2X0 V2, just follow this post.

 

[BlizzofOZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by reviri /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can't wait for 14124all's report, and I did it by myself. It works on my e280 V2, what I did is just followed what ClieOS did: jumped the pin #7 and pin #22. I think the reason is : the e2X0 V2 has the same chip with fuze, but the e2X0 V1 has not. So if you have a e2X0 V2, just follow this post.

Cool news!
I have a e280R... how do you know if you have a v2? I seem to read about this awhile ago. Was it that you have to remove the cover and something was printed on the inside? Or was it if you were using a particular version?

 

[ClieOS]

If it is anything like Fuze, there will be indicated by the firmware version when you check it in the setting (only guessing here).

@ reviri, did you check the L/R channels output for DC offset before wiring?

 

[epithetless]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlizzofOZ /img/forum/go_quote.gif Cool news! I have a e280R... how do you know if you have a v2? I seem to read about this awhile ago. Was it that you have to remove the cover and something was printed on the inside? Or was it if you were using a particular version?

The only way to be sure whether or not you have a v2 (since Sandisk wasn't very particular about matching external casing and internal hardware) is to check the firmware version. If it's 3.XX.XX, you have a v2. If it's 1.XX.XX, you have a v1. All true e200R (Rhapsody) models are v1, by the way.

 

[BlizzofOZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by epithetless /img/forum/go_quote.gif The only way to be sure whether or not you have a v2 (since Sandisk wasn't very particular about matching external casing and internal hardware) is to check the firmware version. If it's 3.XX.XX, you have a v2. If it's 1.XX.XX, you have a v1. All true e200R (Rhapsody) models are v1, by the way.

Looks like I have ver 1... I have 1.XX.XX. I knew I looked at this waaay back when I installed Rockbox on it.

Cool... I have an extra cord lying around, be fun to try it out!

 

[reviri]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClieOS /img/forum/go_quote.gif If it is anything like Fuze, there will be indicated by the firmware version when you check it in the setting (only guessing here). @ reviri, did you check the L/R channels output for DC offset before wiring?

Sorry, I don't know how to check the "DC offset"

Does it need some equipments?

I didn't make some further test(you can see that I didn't take the USB cable away, because I only have one cable), I just connected it to a plug and I heard the music frome the headphone amp, so I thought it succeed.

 

[ClieOS]

Quote:

Originally Posted by reviri /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sorry, I don't know how to check the "DC offset" Does it need some equipments? I didn't make some further test(you can see that I didn't take the USB cable away, because I only have one cable), I just connected it to a plug and I heard the music frome the headphone amp, so I thought it succeed.

You will need a voltmeter (or multimeter) and measure left / right channel against the ground channel. If there is a DC offset, you will see a small voltage (most likely 1~2V). If there isn't any, the voltmeter should show 0V or something very small (like 0.01V), which usually is background noise.

 

[reviri]

I did the test, between the left / right channel and ground channel, there was 1.43V.

So, does that mean the e200 V2 should use diyLOD V2?

 

[S J]

Yep; not using the caps in the v2 design to cancel out the offset could lead to you damaging your amp/headphones.

 

[ClieOS]

Quote:

Originally Posted by reviri /img/forum/go_quote.gif So, does that mean the e200 V2 should use diyLOD V2?

Most definitely, unless your amp has input DC filter. You won't want to actually burn your headphone via high voltage, right?

Anyway, I finally couldn't stop myself from ordering some really expensive Black Gate NX HiQ for more experiment, especially since Parts Connection is having a spring sale event right now. I don't expect them to come in a week or two (need more connectors as well), but I will keep you guys updated on how Black Gate compare to the Nichicon ES I am using now. Stay tuned.

 

[S J]

I put blackgates NX's in mine; it sounds really nice, though I don't have any other caps to put in for comparison... tbh the biggest difference for me between using the LOD and a mini-mini cable is that now I don't accidentally change the volume when I put my hand in my pocket or when I do skip track/pause and stuff without looking

That was seriously annoying me before lol. Also seems to be less background noise, though that may be due more to the LOD being at 'max volume' whereas before I used it at 3/4 or so. I haven't had time to sit down and do some comparative listening between the LOD and the headphone out yet, but I'll get around to it sometime soon.

I just chose the blackgates because they were the smallest caps around, and people seem to get good results from them in imod LODs. If you're handy with a dremel tool, I think you could even cut out part of the metal shield in the slim ridax connector and fit the caps inside the casing. Without the shield, I know that NX-22/6.3Vs will fit vertically (5x7mm diameter x length), though I didn't try a full assembly because I don't have a dremel tool on hand. I don't think the more popular NX-47s will fit though, as iirc they are 6.3mm in diameter; for those you'd have to use the large Ipod connector

Once again, the guide was excellent; I haven't touched a soldering iron since my 8th grade science fair project (like 7 years ago) and I still got everything to work out, no problems at all!

 

[yukihiro]

^ I think there is less background noise from the line out. I've been using mine for a while and I think the line out sounds cleaner.

 

[ClieOS]

You might want to get those Black Gate some time to settle in before any serious auditioning. BG are known to require an extensive burn-in period and many recommend 200 hrs for the least. I would think a minimum 50 hrs should be sufficient.