'noodle' dac (ebay special)
Nov 6, 2008 at 4:11 PM Post #137 of 180

Nemo de Monet

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It's really fairly pointless, but you could use something like Texas Instruments' TL780-05, a 1% "precision" regulator. It's debatable whether it would actually provide "better" regulation in your application, and even more debatable whether it'd have any meaningful (audible/measurable) effect on your DAC's output.

I mean, to put things in perspective, most reasonably common, reasonably affordable multimeters are probably accurate to 1% or less, so you're worrying about variances that are probably not reliably measurable. Considering what passes in the world for "12VDC", a few hundred millivolts from nominal on your DAC power supply is *more* than "good enough"...
 
Nov 6, 2008 at 7:20 PM Post #138 of 180

gurusan

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ok, gotcha.

But anyway.... I happened to have a few spare National Semiconductor LM1086-5 regulators around from a project a long time ago.

I popped one in to replace the old L7805 and now the DMM reads 5.01V constant. You are right, I can't detect any audible difference, but my obsessive mind is at ease now
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Nov 21, 2008 at 9:17 PM Post #142 of 180

adamus

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edit - beaten to it

yes, you need to do a mod to get it working over 48khz. look on the diyaudio forum. Its somewhere in there (digital section)
 
Nov 21, 2008 at 10:03 PM Post #143 of 180

gurusan

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done this and confirmed as working. careful lifting the leg though. might be best to just cut the trace

diyAudio Forums - CS8416/CS4397 board at 96kHZ? - Page 1
Quote:

Originally Posted by error401
I would normally expect a DAC using this IC/receiver combo to utilize the 96KHz pin on the CS8416 to select a high sample rate mode in the DAC when you apply such a signal. An obvious failing of the design. M4 is the CS4397 pin that puts it in high sample rate mode, you'll need to disconnect it from ground and apply an appropriate signal.

You will need to carefully lift the M4 pin (2) from the PCB (...), and bridge it to the CS8416 96KHz pin (16) with a wire. This pin is an output so shouldn't be connected to anything and you won't need to lift it.



 
Nov 22, 2008 at 4:19 AM Post #147 of 180

fordgtlover

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Here's my recapped version

dac1wt3.jpg

I've made the following changes:
R2 3K
C3 10uF 10V oscon
C8 .1uf Polypro
C9 .1uf Polypro
C10 .1uf Polypro
C11 .22uf MKT EPCOS
C12 .1uf Polypro
C13 .22uf MKT EPCOS
C16 100uF 16V os-con
C17 100uF 16V os-con
C18 100uF 16V os-con
C19 Rubycon MBZ 1500uF
C20 100uF 16V os-con
C21 470uF Panasonic FM
C22 22nF
C23 1nF
C25 10uF 10V oscon

R8, R9, R14, R17 30K
C32, C33, C34, C35 150pF

Opamp opa2107

Leo's bypass mod
C27,C28,C30,C31,C6,C54 Bypassed
L & R out C 2uF Obbligato PIO
L & R out R 51 Ohm Kiwame
 
Nov 23, 2008 at 7:00 AM Post #150 of 180

fordgtlover

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Quote:

Originally Posted by adamus /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I use the 2107, tried quite a few and it was the king.


I have got to admit that the 2107 was the first one I grabbed. I liked it so I haven't rolled any others
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, but I have made up for it by swapping out a stack of caps.
 

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