[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by r_aquarii /img/forum/go_quote.gif when is the full kit available?

Hopefully, late June or early July. DigiKey is out of the Panasonic FM's in 1800uf 35V. I'd rather supply the kits with those caps than another type.

 

[rds]

ooh, a complete kit? That's very cool

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif ooh, a complete kit? That's very cool

Yep - now that there are more cases in stock, I thought perhaps that would be the best deal. Plus, it will allow me to control the parts selection, which I think is important. Of course, the PCB's and cases are available separately, too.

 

[individual6891]

Sorry Tom, just to keep everything back to this thread instead of the other one " Computer as source"!! Once the Max has been updated with the ground plane, whats the main differences between this and the miniMax? Also will it be safe to use the 24VAC 0.4A that I mentioned before on the MiniMax? It'll have to be a lower bias I presume? Also will the next revision of this have Bantam support?

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by individual6891 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sorry Tom, just to keep everything back to this thread instead of the other one " Computer as source"!! Once the Max has been updated with the ground plane, whats the main differences between this and the miniMax?

The primary difference is the size of the board - allowing a bit more flexibility, including MOSFETs - and the onboard BantamDAC with input relay switching.

BTW - there's a lot more involved than just that ground plane to get that noise/ripple as low as we did. It took a lot of painstaking measurements and trial and error experiments, based on Colin Toole's recommendations and constant supervision.

Quote:

Also will it be safe to use the 24VAC 0.4A that I mentioned before on the MiniMax?

You can try it, but I'd rather that you stuck with the 0.75A minimum recommendation. The issue is not one of the amperage, but the over-voltage that results from a lightly loaded walwart - we want that over-voltage. It needs to supply about 34-35V after rectification, in order to support the recommended 27VDC on the board with full regulation. Less voltage (a more loaded walwart, iow) and you'll have to turn the 27VDC down on the board or accept that the power supply will not perform to that 45uV noise/ripple (it will be higher).
Quote:

It'll have to be a lower bias I presume?

The MiniMAX runs with 50ma bias in the BJT diamond buffer. You can probably eke out 60ma on one, but that's all. The 1" heat sinks that allow the compact Beezar/Lansing custom-machined case won't reject anymore heat than that.

Not to worry - the MiniMAX is as good as it gets with BJT's. The MAX V1.2 will have no advantage in that regard - only the added convenience of the onboard BantamDAC. However, the MAX V1.2 will support bigger heat sinks, thus the MOSFETs are an option at their much greater bias current.

Quote:

Also will the next revision of this have Bantam support?

Not with the MiniMAX - there will be no revisions for it. As stated above, the MiniMAX is as good as it gets with BJT diamond buffers. It's also as small as anyone can make it and still use through-hole parts. Of course, SMD would be no advantage with all those heat sinks. So in effect, the MiniMAX is as small as can be made, period - and still keep all the performance features.

 

[Beefy]

So now that I am in Canada, I need to buy a new power supply for my MiniMax. I was looking at this one at Newark:
TRIAD MAGNETICS|WAU24-1000|External Plug-In Power Supply | Newark Canada
Looking at the image linked in the spec sheet, it seems to come terminated with the correct connector at 2.1mm ID, 5.5mm OD:
http://triadmagnetics.com/CatalogGraphics/Wpi-ta.gif

So unless I am missing something, this should just be buy and plug in, no mess, no fuss......?

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif So now that I am in Canada, I need to buy a new power supply for my MiniMax. I was looking at this one at Newark: TRIAD MAGNETICS|WAU24-1000|External Plug-In Power Supply | Newark Canada Looking at the image linked in the spec sheet, it seems to come terminated with the correct connector at 2.1mm ID, 5.5mm OD: http://triadmagnetics.com/CatalogGraphics/Wpi-ta.gif So unless I am missing something, this should just be buy and plug in, no mess, no fuss......?

Yes, but actually - you'll be fine with this one:
TRIAD MAGNETICS|WAU24-750|External Plug-In Power Supply | Newark Canada
This one will cost a little less and 750ma is all you need for a MiniMAX.

 

[Beefy]

Less current? PFFFT! I was actually seriously considering the 1.8A model!

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Less current? PFFFT! I was actually seriously considering the 1.8A model!

Save that one for the MOSFET-MAX.

 

[tomb]

Just an FYI, but I've updated the MiniMAX BOM to reflect the upcoming kit parts selection. The BOM is now complete and contains all parts required to build a MiniMAX, including the knob and recommended boutique parts selection. Plus, the prices have been updated to reflect the latest Mouser pricing.

 

[BobMcN]

Any update on a launch date or pricing for the complete kit direct from Beezar?

 

[tomb]

Hmm ... can't post that here, but I will say that it's slightly less than the total shown on the BOM. End of the month is my hopeful time frame, but we'll see.

 

[ecclesand]

I have a question....when rolling tubes, one of the tube jacks (or whatever it's called) makes a crunching noise. I'm being gentle when I rock the tubes in and out. Is this a problem? It only does it on one side...

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecclesand /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have a question....when rolling tubes, one of the tube jacks (or whatever it's called) makes a crunching noise. I'm being gentle when I rock the tubes in and out. Is this a problem? It only does it on one side...

Sockets ... It could be a piece of glue, a piece of a broken tube pin, etc. You might turn the amp over (careful that anything not soldered down is removed) and try patting it a few times and see if that dislodges anything from the tube socket (tubes removed, of course!).

If that all checks out, don't worry about it.

 

[ecclesand]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sockets ... It could be a piece of glue, a piece of a broken tube pin, etc. You might turn the amp over (careful that anything not soldered down is removed) and try patting it a few times and see if that dislodges anything from the tube socket (tubes removed, of course!). If that all checks out, don't worry about it.

Thanks, Tom...nothing came out. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't breaking the ceramic tube socket.