New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp
Apr 5, 2008 at 2:22 AM Post #4,231 of 6,727
joneeboi,

Thanks for the info. Alright Here is what I'm doing... I think.

I'm going to use the KZ's in the CA7 position
ES's in the CA2 position

with .18 VitQs in the CA8 bypass


do you think the .18 VitQs would be ok in the CA9 or stick with the WIMA's...

I just ordered the 2sc3422 and its complement for my BJT's I think this may be a great compliment to the ES and KZ's, plus I think the warm midrange that could happen will be very pleasing.

cheers again

TomB Thanks in advance for my order I just placed!!!
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 3:50 AM Post #4,232 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by chilly /img/forum/go_quote.gif
joneeboi,

Thanks for the info. Alright Here is what I'm doing... I think.

I'm going to use the KZ's in the CA7 position
ES's in the CA2 position

with .18 VitQs in the CA8 bypass


do you think the .18 VitQs would be ok in the CA9 or stick with the WIMA's...

I just ordered the 2sc3422 and its complement for my BJT's I think this may be a great compliment to the ES and KZ's, plus I think the warm midrange that could happen will be very pleasing.

cheers again

TomB Thanks in advance for my order I just placed!!!



Vitamin Q's are somewhat nicer than Wima, definitely go with them if you can.
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 6:06 AM Post #4,234 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So over the last week, instead of writing grant applications
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, I've read the entire thread here on Head-Fi, as well as about 100 pages in total over at diyaudio.org. I understand most things happening with the tweaks, but still have a couple of lingering issues.

Firstly, output resistors. I understand some people don't like them because they hurt dynamics...... but isn't that a direct result of most people using carbon film resistors? I know that the likes of Stackpole, KOA etc. are the tube-enthusiasts-darling, but it was my understanding that carbon film is inferior to metal film across pretty much all measured characteristics.



Decent guess, but no. Metal film just sounds bad in the output positions, period - and yes, I've tried both on identical amps at the same time. A high value metal film will sound noisy and lose dynamics - a very bad sounding combination.

It's true that it hurts dynamics. This is immediately apparent on high impedance phones such as Sennheisers. With low impedance - something like KSC75's or Grado's, the dynamics are not noticeably hurt at low resistor values, but some of the "tizziness" goes away and there's a soft sheen on the highs (with some sort of carbon resistor, there).

Quote:

Secondly, power transistors. How are people honestly comparing the different options? I find it difficult to believe that you can get such big distinctions as people claim between these parts, when so much time and effort passes between testing one versus another in the same amp. Unlike testing between caps, where plenty of people have identical builds except for the caps, nobody seems to have rigs where the only difference is the transistors. Or if they do, they are Black Gate models which would probably sound subtly different even with the same transistors, depending on burn in status and individual tube characteristics.


The differences are not subtle, and yes - I have 6 MAXes right now, each with different output transistors - also had four regular Milletts before that, each with different transistors in the DB's. With the Millett, you could take the same amp and plug/unplug as many different DB's as you had on hand. That's probably how Steinchen made his original reviews.
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Moreover, I've heard nothing to dispute Steinchen's original work on such reviews (as referenced in Regal's link), except that I disagree slightly with his description of "rough highs" on the 2SC3421/2SA1358. (I think with the right output cap and higher bias currents on the MAX, the highs are fairly smooth - they're definitely emphasized in those transistors, though - so is the bass, but in extension, not in slam.) If you read the older Millett threads over on DIYForums.org, Steinchen at one point declared the 2SC34221/2SA1358 pair his favorite. So, things change as you try other transistors and note the differences.

There's also a point I made not too far back in this very same thread. AMB took issue with it because it read as if I was saying that the tubes did not make the most difference with sound. That's true to an extent - what happens in my experience with these things is that differences in tubes of the same type are more or less overwhelmed by the buffer. This was obvious in the older Millett, since you could plug and unplug the DB's versus a monolithic buffer. With the monolithics, even small differences in the tubes between brands seemed to make a difference. That goes away, IMHO, when a strong discrete buffer is applied.

Now, that said, changing from a 12AE6 to a 12FK6 will affect a huge difference in sound. Personally, I still think it's debatable in some instances whether that difference is greater than the difference between changing from a 2SC3422/2SA1359 pair to a 2SC3421/2SA1358 pair. Those two are very different, for instance. Whereas, differences between the 2SC2238/2SA968 and the 2SC2344/2SA1011 are much more subtle.

As stated in some of those posts, though, the gain and sound difference are large enough between the 12AE6 and 12FK6 that many people settle on one or the other. That makes any changes from then on are effected almost entirely by the transistors.

Keep in mind that at this point, there are very few amps that have as much history and refinement in the DIY headphone community as the Millett Hybrid. The basic circuit has been built for years now, and some of us are on our way to building a dozen or more.
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Quote:

Thoughts?


Yep.
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Apr 5, 2008 at 6:16 AM Post #4,235 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by chilly /img/forum/go_quote.gif
joneeboi,

Thanks for the info. Alright Here is what I'm doing... I think.

I'm going to use the KZ's in the CA7 position
ES's in the CA2 position

with .18 VitQs in the CA8 bypass


do you think the .18 VitQs would be ok in the CA9 or stick with the WIMA's...



Don't put anything in CA9 but Wima's, or it will kill the bass - that includes VitQ's. The only exception to this is when using Black Gates. Either nothing or perhaps the little 0.47uf, 50V BG NX-HiQ's are appropriate.

Quote:

I just ordered the 2sc3422 and its complement for my BJT's I think this may be a great compliment to the ES and KZ's, plus I think the warm midrange that could happen will be very pleasing.


If you choose ES's, use Wima's everywhere except those VitQ's at the CA8 output positions, you are in for a real treat.
smily_headphones1.gif


Quote:

cheers again

TomB Thanks in advance for my order I just placed!!!


It's on the way!
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BTW, about the KZ vs. ES. The biggest difference will be which one you use at CA7. CA2, as a shunting cathode bypass, has very little direct effect on sound. You can just as well put an FC, FM, UPW there as long as it's 1000uf and is bypassed by the Wima. There will be an improvement with ES's, KZ's, or some other boutique electrolytic, but any differences will be very subtle. Paradoxically, the choice of film cap at CA9 can have a huge and immediate effect on bass - most will kill it. That's why I recommend almost nothing back there except a Wima.

Changes at CA7 (or CA8), on the other hand, are immediate and significant at all frequencies.
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 9:49 AM Post #4,236 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Decent guess....

The differences are not subtle....



Well, I'm a lot more convinced now with all that info in one place - rather than alluded to on different occasions in a 400+ page thread
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I'll cogitate on all this over the weekend. Maybe I should place another Beezar order for some transistors to replace the BJE 243/253 in Jeff's kit (if Jeff ever sends me an invoice or his PayPal details), and some KOAs. I would be able to drop some extra $$$ on the order for those extra VitQ's as well to bring my karma back into balance
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Its all going to be a tough call when I come to build, really. I'll have a choice between KZ and ES at CA7, 0.18 and 0.22µF VitQ's at CA8, possibly make a decision between a slamming 2SC3422/2SA1359 and a neutral/detailed 2SC2238/2SA968, and decide whether I want any taming of the output.

*sigh* too many choices to make, too little time to test any of them for myself, and too little money to pay for it all
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Apr 5, 2008 at 12:43 PM Post #4,237 of 6,727
Beefy,

My first max was a Jeff kit, and I built it stock with the exception of putting in ES's and VitQ's in the appropriate places. I have to say that it makes a very nice sounding amp. I use 10ohm resistors in output to tame some tube noise(i'm using IEM's).

I'm sure you have read my above posts as well, and I am building another amp... with maybe a bit better sonics. we shall see, Hopefully I can start today.... But I just got another freelance rush project that I need to finish before Monday, ARGH!!!. Life always gets in the way.

Well I can vouch for jeff's kit it sounds great and neutral. Its also a Can't miss build on the MAX site!

-cheers
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 2:49 PM Post #4,238 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by chilly /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well I can vouch for jeff's kit it sounds great and neutral. Its also a Can't miss build on the MAX site!


Oh, I'm sure it does sound great. But I am only ever going to build one of these, and I don't really want to tweak once it is built if I can avoid it. Get it right the first time.

And the best thing is, I can buy a few extra parts for the DB and still come up at about the same cost as just Black Gates.

[EDIT] Thinking about it now, I've already got an awesome solid state amp with my M^3. So as I said much earlier, I'm guess I'm really looking for an introduction to tubes through the MHM. With the boutique parts that I've already got (Muse at CA2 and CA7, Wima at CA9, VitQ at CA8), are there any particular transistor/output resistor combos that will give the best tubey sound? I suspect that the warmth of the 2SC3422/2SA1359 would probably be the closest, with just 10R on the output to smooth it off?
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 5:35 PM Post #4,240 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
<snip>
[EDIT] Thinking about it now, I've already got an awesome solid state amp with my M^3. So as I said much earlier, I'm guess I'm really looking for an introduction to tubes through the MHM. With the boutique parts that I've already got (Muse at CA2 and CA7, Wima at CA9, VitQ at CA8), are there any particular transistor/output resistor combos that will give the best tubey sound? I suspect that the warmth of the 2SC3422/2SA1359 would probably be the closest, with just 10R on the output to smooth it off?



The 10R on the output is a highly subjective thing. With Senns, I wouldn't use it. With IEM's, it's probably a necessity. It may change with 12AE6 (needed) vs. 12FK6 (not needed), too. It just depends on how much you value details vs. desiring the ability to have more travel in the volume knob plus more of a "tubey" sound. If you suspect in the least a bit less dynamics than you were expecting, take them out and use jumpers. A DPDT switch is a great idea if you have a wide range of headphones.

I think you are definitely headed in the right direction, though. Those parts and caps should give you a very good contrast with the M3. I'd go for the Panasonic 1200uf or 1800uf 35V at CA4/5 with Wima's and the Panasonic 1000uf 50V in the power supply. Use good RN55 Vishay-Dales everywhere (or red PRP's for a nice touch), with metal film 2.2ohm power resistors at the R10/11 positions, and you'll have great detail plus oodles of rockin' slam. Detail may not be quite up to the M3, but you'll have a seductive resonance in the mids (Diana Krall, yum!) with a deep, reverberating bass slam.
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 7:51 PM Post #4,241 of 6,727
I have a small problem with the metal grille on my amp case (pics a few pages back). It came from an old PC case, and is slightly bowed. I want it to be perfectly flat. I attached it to the top panel with Gorilla tape, which seemed to hold it flat no problem, but a day later it has bowed up again. I don't think Krazy glue will really hold wire mesh against aluminum too well.

How can I flatten it? I tried to tap it out with a tack hammer but it didn't work. If I put it between some books with a heavy weight on top of it, will that eventually flatten it after a few days or so?
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 7:54 PM Post #4,242 of 6,727
A little off topic, but I just wanted to post up about an amazing singer/songwriter artist I happened to catch in concert this week in Minneapolis. Actually, her opening act was really good too, so I came home with three new CDs. Her name is Tristan Prettyman. Her sound is folk/folk rock or a little folk pop, but not to the extent of Cheryl Crow. The newspaper article described her as a less edgy Chan Marshall (Catpower) but I don't think that's quite a fair comparison and I'm a huge Catpower fan. Anyways, you can hear Tristan's entire first two albums on her website via streaming audio which is pretty cool, but the SQ is obviously lacking. The opening act was a band from Australia called Whitley. They are a foklktronic sound, but only their front man opened for Tristan with a great acoustic set. Anyways, just wanted to share about these two artists because they are definitely motivating me to get on the ball and get at least one of MAXes built and get my Oppo HD-981 / 'phones on order so I can enjoy the full benefit of their CDs and MAX amp! Tristan's voice was made for Senns or AKGs and Whitley will sound great on a pair of Grados or Ultrasones, but they both sound darn great on my Sony A816 with Denon C700 canal phones.
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If anybody else listens to a lot of folk rock, folk pop, new folk, or folktronic; please send me a PM with new recommendations to check out, I'm really starting to dig this music genre!

BMF
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 7:55 PM Post #4,243 of 6,727
Guys, I bought some 12FK6 tubes from Beezar and I'm going to swap them tonight.

I'm expecting to have to re-bias the tubes, but do I have to take the same precautions with the DB bias as I did when setting up the trimmers for the first time? I don't want to risk smoking my DBs!
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I'm looking forward to the sound of the FK6s as the AE6s sound quite bass heavy on my Senn HD500s - a fault definately with the headphones, not the Max - but swapping the tubes to calm the bass down is a quick fix that I can't resist!!

Cheers
Chris
 
Apr 5, 2008 at 8:05 PM Post #4,244 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by slowpogo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have a small problem with the metal grille on my amp case (pics a few pages back). It came from an old PC case, and is slightly bowed. I want it to be perfectly flat. I attached it to the top panel with Gorilla tape, which seemed to hold it flat no problem, but a day later it has bowed up again. I don't think Krazy glue will really hold wire mesh against aluminum too well.

How can I flatten it? I tried to tap it out with a tack hammer but it didn't work. If I put it between some books with a heavy weight on top of it, will that eventually flatten it after a few days or so?



Is it just polished metal like aluminum? If it's polished and not painted you can torch it to relax the memory, then flatten it under very heavy weight, books won't be enough. The other option is to use JB Weld to bond it to the case top, but it might bow again before the JB cures, so I'd try to flatten it first.
 
Apr 6, 2008 at 12:30 AM Post #4,245 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The 10R on the output is a highly subjective thing. With Senns, I wouldn't use it. With IEM's, it's probably a necessity.


I currently use Audio Technica ATH-AD900, which are 32 ohm and quite sensitive. My next phones, if any, will probably be Alessandro (also 32 ohm). 10R it will be.

Quote:

Those parts and caps should give you a very good contrast with the M3.


I look forward to the comparison. The bass with OPA627BP in L/R, and AD8610 in GND is already incredibly staccato - even with my smooth/airy/sparkly phones and using a gain of only 2. Female vocals and horns are spine tingling to boot......
 

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