New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp
Dec 4, 2007 at 12:59 AM Post #2,521 of 6,727
anyone have any spare vitQs or russians they could spare, im hoping to try out the "cant miss 1 build" but im not too keen on having to order a whole lot of them just to match them! :| if anyone has any spares it would be a huge and greatly appreciated favor lol! pm me if so cheers
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 3:22 AM Post #2,522 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Sounds like you found some Sprague Black Beauties.
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About the 2SC2238/2SA968's - let us know if it makes a difference swapping them out - but try to be sure that it's not psychological. I have a habit of claiming "better" just because I put the sweat into doing it. That may or may not be reality. I have one on the building board right now with the Chinese versions I got from that local vendor that I trust ... ed.
wink.gif
I'll swap 'em out if you think there's a difference.




Well, If anyone is interested in any of the "Black Beauties", There were quite a few left, maybe 10 -20 in the box. I am not sure of their audio quality, but I will keep the offer out there if anyone is interested.

Tomb, I know what you mean about the psychological aspect. I might not be able to tell the difference at all..

Tom
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 3:47 AM Post #2,523 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by jerrygp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thank you all for your help. CR1D is reversed. I don't know how that slipped by...I am usually very...anal about my DIY stuff. (Have to be with no electronics training or experience.) Tomb mentioned polarized Black Gates, the side of the canister has "nonpolar" markings, so I assume I am alright there? Would reversing the CR1D cap have damaged anything else?


Nah - the cap would only hurt itself.

As for your Black Gates, yes - those are non-polarized and should be OK installed in either direction. As it happens, even non-polar or bi-polar caps have one lead longer than the other. As a general rule, the long lead on a polarized cap goes into the positive side. I always put bi-polars in that way, too, but they'll be OK, regardless.

Quote:

And thank you Tomb, for your attaboy. I am using the Russian PIO's in there as well at CA8. Hope it breaks in sweetly. You folks are part of a great community.


Sweetly and longly.
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Dsavitsk has suggested just running BG's for a week before you even listen. That might not be a bad idea - they will take 50-100 hours before they stop sounding "thick and conjested" and will continue to improve for many hours beyond that.

You are welcome for the attaboys. As for the "community", others have said it, but that's the big thing that Jude's created: a headphone community. Some of us tend to forget that when we complain about the rules or other things.
rolleyes.gif
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 4:36 AM Post #2,524 of 6,727
noobish question, can someone elaborate on the black beauties? what are they and where are you guys trying them in the max?
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 5:18 AM Post #2,525 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by el_matt0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
noobish question, can someone elaborate on the black beauties? what are they and where are you guys trying them in the max?


I didn't want to be discouraging, but I haven't seen a Black Beauty anywhere near the size small enough to fit in the MAX. They're probably not as good as VitaminQ's and the construction is not reliable. Black Beauties are more popular with the guitar folks who want something that adds more brraatt and preserves vintage sound


[size=xx-small](click for a big pic)[/size]

Here's an excerpt from the March, 2007 issue of the New Jersey Antique Radio Club Newsletter - it has everything you wanted to know about Sprague Black Beauties:
How Beautiful Are Those Black Beauties?
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 5:27 AM Post #2,526 of 6,727
thanks tom, all i needed/ wanted to know! was just curious more than anything else. well - unfortunately im still on the hunt for some vitQs or russians it looks like!
frown.gif
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 6:09 AM Post #2,527 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by el_matt0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
thanks tom, all i needed/ wanted to know! was just curious more than anything else. well - unfortunately im still on the hunt for some vitQs or russians it looks like!
frown.gif



umm ever try reading previous posts in the thread? like a whole page ago...
rolleyes.gif
(damn this new rolleyes smiley doesn't look cynical enough)
Quote:

Originally Posted by thomaskuhn /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I also just got some K42's in, and should soon have them installed. If anyone needs a pair, just PM me. I should have about 6 left, after myself and some I am giving away.


or have all his already been claimed? if so, mybad, just disregard this. Actually, if so, PM me, I personally don't have any but I may be able to hook you up
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 6:43 AM Post #2,528 of 6,727
I have about 46 extra. Only problem is it might take a bit long to get to you do to my present location. If you can't find anyone else and don't mind waiting let me know.
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 7:32 AM Post #2,529 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Nah - the cap would only hurt itself.

As for your Black Gates, yes - those are non-polarized and should be OK installed in either direction. As it happens, even non-polar or bi-polar caps have one lead longer than the other. As a general rule, the long lead on a polarized cap goes into the positive side. I always put bi-polars in that way, too, but they'll be OK, regardless.

Sweetly and longly.
wink.gif
Dsavitsk has suggested just running BG's for a week before you even listen. That might not be a bad idea - they will take 50-100 hours before they stop sounding "thick and conjested" and will continue to improve for many hours beyond that.

You are welcome for the attaboys. As for the "community", others have said it, but that's the big thing that Jude's created: a headphone community. Some of us tend to forget that when we complain about the rules or other things.
rolleyes.gif



Thanks, tomb. Didn't have any extra UPW's, so I had to order more from Mouser. While I wait, I might as well start on my third board...either that or start the new Dean Koontz novel...
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 10:58 AM Post #2,530 of 6,727
Quote:

I am usually very...anal about my DIY stuff. (Have to be with no electronics training or experience.)


The hits that you take when installing a cap backwards and learning from that is what electronics "experience" is all about. It isn't fun, but the school of hard knocks is valuable training!
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 12:02 PM Post #2,531 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by amphead /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The hits that you take when installing a cap backwards and learning from that is what electronics "experience" is all about. It isn't fun, but the school of hard knocks is valuable training!


Yes, Amphead is right - it happens to all of us. I once installed an entire bank of TO-92's in reverse on one of the Millett DB boards. I couldn't understand why it was burning and smelling when it was plugged in.
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I had been so careful to get the 2N5087's and 2N5088's in their respective positions, it never dawned on me that they were reversed. It fried every one of the TO-92's on that channel - had to replace them all.
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 4:00 PM Post #2,532 of 6,727
Is there any place in the Max where boutique resistors might work well? I recall someone used Kiwames in their Max but didn't care for the sound. I'm thinking of tantalums, MK-132s or Rikens.

I'm planning on using PRP resistors for most of the amp, but thought maybe some boutiques in the input stage might not be a bad idea.
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 4:08 PM Post #2,533 of 6,727
i believe where people have reported kiwames having a positive impact is on the output stage. i could be wrong though. out of random curiousity, i notice some people use MASSIVE caps in their mhmax, ferraris build for example with those huge black audyn caps. what position are those being used in? and i assume those are those massive russian teflons being used @ CA8?
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 8:06 PM Post #2,534 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by slowpogo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is there any place in the Max where boutique resistors might work well? I recall someone used Kiwames in their Max but didn't care for the sound. I'm thinking of tantalums, MK-132s or Rikens.

I'm planning on using PRP resistors for most of the amp, but thought maybe some boutiques in the input stage might not be a bad idea.



Quote:

Originally Posted by el_matto
i believe where people have reported kiwames having a positive impact is on the output stage. i could be wrong though. out of random curiousity, i notice some people use MASSIVE caps in their mhmax, ferraris build for example with those huge black audyn caps. what position are those being used in? and i assume those are those massive russian teflons being used @ CA8?


I agree with el_matto - I'm not aware of anyone who did not like the Kiwame's. Now, keep in mind that if the choice is no resistor on the output vs. some resistor on the output, the Kiwame may lose in that choice - but probably not otherwise. So, jumpered output resistors will definitely sound superior than say a 75ohm or 100ohm Kiwame. Down around 22-10ohms, the Kiwame may actually help rather than hurt compared to just jumpers. I've heard that the Rikens may be just as good, but we don't have any direct reports - yet. The cheap Stackpole carbon films at Handmade can get you 80-90% of the effect of a Kiwame for about 1/10 the price.

The output positions are the only place on a MAX where boutique resistors may make a difference. PRP or V-D's are as good as it gets for the rest - excluding the three LED resistors. Nothing more than simple carbon films should be used there.

Ferrari (pardon my speaking for him, here) pursues the principle that any electrolytic in the signal path is bad. So, he chooses to make combinations of film capacitors in parallel that add up to the capacitance of the electrolytic output coupling caps. For instance, in the original Millett Hybrid, he tied together enough film caps to total 470uf - the banks of film caps were larger than the rest of the amp. The Audyns he's using in his MAX follow the same priniciple. It's just that he was able to get the Audyns in much larger sizes so that it only took two or three - or however many it was.

Again, he is using them in the CA7 position instead of the 470uf electrolytics. (He may, in fact, have a larger value total than that - I'm not really sure.) I'd have to look at the pics again to see what you're talking about in the back. At one point he was using the Russian K40 PIO's, I think, but changed to something else, later.
 
Dec 4, 2007 at 9:50 PM Post #2,535 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I didn't want to be discouraging, but I haven't seen a Black Beauty anywhere near the size small enough to fit in the MAX. They're probably not as good as VitaminQ's and the construction is not reliable. Black Beauties are more popular with the guitar folks who want something that adds more brraatt and preserves vintage sound



Yeah, TOMB is right on those Caps being desired by the guitar folks...
Not by the MAX folks!

I don't think anyone would want to put a Black Beauty (or Bumble Bee) in their MAX. Their claim to fame is their tonal coloration and distortion products that they produce within Guitar AMP tone circuits are highly sought for that Vintage Signature Sound. They are also know for being very prone to leaking acid and oil out of them through age and heat exposure. YUK
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Can't imagine anyone intentionally wanting to distort or color that dynamic music stream pouring through their MAX. On top of that they aren't cheap because the Vintage Guitar crowd has driven the prices up!
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Here is another article that is short, sweet and to the point.. Black Beauty

It also contains some very highly respected reference links on Capacitor construction data, selection criteria and highly regarded test documentation for those that want to Geeky on the subject.
 

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