New Millett Hybrid Maxed Amp
Apr 25, 2008 at 12:32 AM Post #4,606 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaso /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Measure across Gnd and L TUBE or R TUBE bias points. In your case you should have around 13.5 VDC.


Oh, the bias is fine. I read the initial check up many, many times, and every BIAS point was checked within seconds of powering on
wink.gif


Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I was going to say, though - you lit the tubes with tube LED's, didn't you? They're supposed to be bright.
wink.gif
The only thing you should see from the heaters is a small vertical rod in the center of the tubes. Normally, you can see that at top (unless you have top getters, then the getter flash hides it) - it glows bright orange, but is quite dim on its own.



Yes, they are lit with LEDs and they are very bright, but it is the vertical rod that I can also see glowing orange. The latter is just a lot brighter than I expected, thats all!
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Apr 25, 2008 at 1:28 AM Post #4,607 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
<snip>Yes, they are lit with LEDs and they are very bright, but it is the vertical rod that I can also see glowing orange. The latter is just a lot brighter than I expected, thats all!
smily_headphones1.gif



Well, the very top tip of the vertical rod almost turns yellow it glows so hot. Even so, about all it can do is light up the tube tip without LEDs present. If you've got the proper V+ voltage and you used a 10-30 ohm heater resistor, it's probably fine.
 
Apr 25, 2008 at 1:58 AM Post #4,608 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well, the very top tip of the vertical rod almost turns yellow it glows so hot. Even so, about all it can do is light up the tube tip without LEDs present.


That is exactly what I'm getting. In other news, it makes sound that isn't crappy!
biggrin.gif


I've got the DB at 90mV and running my sacrificial KSC-75 at the upper end of comfortable (which is actually pretty quiet for me). Tubes and Vreg h/sink are nice and warm, DB h/sink barely noticeable - benefits of the 1.5" sinks I guess.

I'll let it run like this while I have breakfast......
 
Apr 25, 2008 at 9:33 AM Post #4,609 of 6,727
For the benefit of everyone, everywhere.......

If you use an adhesive heat sick mounting kit, don't get isopropanol/flux-remover on them when you clean off the flux. It spreads adhesive all over the damn PCB, and is a massive pain to clean off.
 
Apr 25, 2008 at 10:05 AM Post #4,610 of 6,727
Congrats Beefy! Another Max Lives! :wink: :wink: :wink:

I have no doubt that you have successfully built the Max based on your observations. Yes the heaters are quite warm on the Max. The only thing to be cautious about, is overbiasing the output transistors. We are waiting for your thorough report of the listening evaluation. :wink:
 
Apr 25, 2008 at 10:59 AM Post #4,611 of 6,727
Yep, she's definitely working. Currently powering my KSC-75 at 1/3 on the volume dial, and loud enough to hear through almost my entire apartment. All I have to do is wire up the test points, shorten the volume pot a touch and fit the power input and switch.

Pics!

mhm4ez6.jpg


mhm5po5.jpg
 
Apr 26, 2008 at 12:33 AM Post #4,613 of 6,727
Has anyone used 12AE6A made by a company called CEI Electron Tube.

I dont think CEI built the tubes.
the getter is side mounted.
The Name, CEI is printed on the the tube and it looks like it could rub off.
The 12AE6A is also printed.
Additionally the 12AE6A is etched into the tube.

I hope they are OK tubes since I got 12 of the from Ed at the Black Hole in Los Alamos. Cheap 50 cents each. Last of his stock on those.

Phil
 
Apr 26, 2008 at 1:44 AM Post #4,614 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Townsend /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Has anyone used 12AE6A made by a company called CEI Electron Tube.

I dont think CEI built the tubes.
the getter is side mounted.
The Name, CEI is printed on the the tube and it looks like it could rub off.
The 12AE6A is also printed.
Additionally the 12AE6A is etched into the tube.

I hope they are OK tubes since I got 12 of the from Ed at the Black Hole in Los Alamos. Cheap 50 cents each. Last of his stock on those.

Phil



I know Tom is working on a tube description and clarification page. There were only (3) manufacturers of these tubes, GE, RCA, and Sylvania. GE tubes have the tube number etched in white in the glass with dots under the lettering. The dots might be hard to see though. RCA put their tube designation in a squished rectangle. Sylvania etched their tube designation into the glass with a dark font. But, I have a 12AE6A tube in a Sylvania box labeled as Sylvania on the tube but the tube designation etched in GE's fashion with etched dots...
tongue.gif
 
Apr 26, 2008 at 3:19 AM Post #4,616 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Townsend /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The letters are dark...So I guess they are Sylvania


I have some CEI's, but they're GE's: they have the etched designation and the white dots. It sound like yours are those.
wink.gif


Brian is correct. Although, there is actually a 4th mfr (Tung-Sol), but that still means that any "off-brand" was made by one of the Big Three/Four.
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 3:19 AM Post #4,617 of 6,727
I've basically finished the max aside from cleaning up the wiring, and have put it through its paces with my Audio Technica ATH-AD900 on my old Sony DVD player (will hook it up to a better source very soon). Here are my thoughts......

My first set of tubes were some 12FK6, burnt in for about 8 hours. I agree that the 12FK6 tubes sound nice and airy. I agree that they lack bass and punch. I'll try my other set of 12FK6 later today.

The 12AE6A have been in for about 5 hours and I'm listening to them now. They get back a lot of punch but are slightly veiled compared to the 12FK6 - though this has improved since the tubes first went in, so maybe the tubes need more time. Even so, I think I prefer these to the 12FK6.

Comparing the 12AE6A Max to my M^3 (OPA627BP in L/R, AD8610 in GND, variable gain 2-12) is interesting. The Max is ever so slightly warmer and smoother, with the M^3 being more neutral and detailed (I get even more detail out of the M^3 with AD8610 all round). Treble is good on both, and both are sibilant on music that I know to be sibilant; the M^3 moreso, which I take as the M^3 having slightly better treble extension than the 12AE6A tubes (but this could still be a detail thing). Soundstage is excellent on both, with the M^3 having a tiny bit more front/back depth.

Both amps are capable of driving my KSC-75 as mini speakers (the poor little buggers!) to ridiculous volume levels. No lack of power in either amp. But the most interesting thing in my comparison is that the M^3 maintains more of its punch at very low volume levels (even at a gain of only 2), whereas the Max needs a little bit more volume before things really get rocking. I really think the tubes like to be worked hard, whereas the OPAMPs are less picky.

Lastly, the Max is definitely sexier - I can understand the emotive draw of tubes! The PCB symmetry is nice and all the big caps look very imposing. The M^3 is more understated and clinical looking.

So that's my $0.02. At the end of the day, I am VERY happy with the Max, considering it cost half what the M^3 and S11 combo cost me. It will probably serve duty on the Rec monitor of my HT amp, for mixed TV, DVD and Xbox360 usage while the M^3 will specifically do CD duties. And I'm *definitely* selling my Corda Arietta!
wink.gif


[EDIT] Just thought I'd add specs for key positions at this point....
CR1 - 4x 1000µF Nichicon UPW
CA4/5 - 4x1800µF Nichicon UPW
CA2 - 1000µF Nichicon Muse ES
CA7 - 470µF Nichicon Muse ES
CA3/6/9 - 0.22µF Wima MKP10
CA8 - 0.18µF Sprague Vitamin Q
QB8/9 - 2SC3422/2SA1359
RB14 - 10ohm KOA
PS set at 27V
Tube bias set at 13.5V (hot)
DB bias at 110-115mV, and within 1mV B1-B2
DC offset <1mV
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 5:39 AM Post #4,619 of 6,727
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks much for sharing your experiences and thoughts with the MAX, Beefy!


No problems..... couldn't have done it without you and Beezar!
smily_headphones1.gif


Just to add to my post above, my 12AE6A definitely need more time to burn in. I've had to shift the tube bias down by well over half a volt in the last 2 hours of quiescent use.....
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 9:33 AM Post #4,620 of 6,727
Quote:

It will probably serve duty on the Rec monitor of my HT amp, for mixed TV, DVD and Xbox360 usage


Interesting application, thanks for the review.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top