[Matias]

I'm not sure what a "hifi fuse" is. Where did you get it at? Can you post a picture of it?

It has been found that along with power cables the fuses inside the devices can be upgraded to aftermarket ones that sound significantly better (or it is all snake oil depending on your view, I will not go into this discussion).

Below are several models, being the SR Black the best there is imo.
https://www.thecableco.com/Catalog/Fuses

 

[jerick70]

hi this is the fuse i was talking about

Ah OK. You would take out the fuse that is already in the V2+ and replace it with this one. There is a little door between the AC receptical and the power switch on the back of the V2+. This is where the fuse that Burson includes with the V2+ is installed. You'll want to have the V2+ turned off and unplugged from the wall before you replace it.

 

[jerick70]

It has been found that along with power cables the fuses inside the devices can be upgraded to aftermarket ones that sound significantly better (or is all snake all depending on your view, I will not go into this discussion).

Below are several models, being the SR Black the best there is.
https://www.thecableco.com/Catalog/Fuses

Hi Mathias,

Thanks for the heads up. I understand the concept and what upgrading a fuse can do. I wanted to make sure that is what Sound Eq was talking about. I didn't want to give him bad advice....

 

[Sound Eq]

Ah OK. You would take out the fuse that is already in the V2+ and replace it with this one. There is a little door between the AC receptical and the power switch on the back of the V2+. This is where the fuse that Burson includes with the V2+ is installed. You'll want to have the V2+ turned off and unplugged from the wall before you replace it.

but what does it do

 

[jerick70]

but what does it do

In general a fuse is to protect from overcurrent conditions. There is a thin piece of wire that melts if the current to the equipment is to high.

An upgraded "HiFi Fuse" is supposed to make the sound better in your equipment. There is a lot of debate on if it does make a difference or not. I don't have an opinion on it because I've never tried upgrading the fuses in my equipment.

 

[Sound Eq]

I'm general a fuse is to protect from overcurrent conditions. There is a thin piece of wire that melts if the current to the equipment is to high.

An upgraded "HiFi Fuse" is supposed to make the sound better in your equipment. There is a lot of debate on if it does make a difference or not. I don't have an opinion on it because I've never tried upgrading the fuses in my equipment.

it seems mine is one of the ultra cheap ones which cost about maybe 2 usd , so I am not going to put it in as the others cost over 40 usd that are linked above

 

[jerick70]

it seems mine is one of the ultra cheap ones which cost about maybe 2 usd , so I am not going to put it in as the others cost over 40 usd that are linked above

I can't tell if that is the right fuse for the V2. It takes a 3 amp slow blow fuse.

If it is the right fuse it wouldn't hurt to try it. I don't think you are going to hurt anything if you install it.

 

[Sound Eq]

i wonder if you guys noticed any burn in effect after about 200 hours of using the v2+ and in what way

 

[oatp1b1]

Considering to downsize my current setup from DAC+Amplifier (both for space saving and that I have come to the conclusion that I need a volume remote in my life) to a combo and been looking at the V2+ since I was very happy with my HA-160D/HD650 combo previously. How is it with the HD800S? Just worried that it might be a little too lush so that details are lost since I listen to quite a bit of classical music.

 

[EternalChampion]

After reading things like people preferring setups consisting of separate Burson units such as DA-160 + Soloist (or even the SL version) instead of previous versions of Conductors, I was thinking this: Is there any sort of components/performance compromise when going all-in-one? I mean, the digital board found in the V2+, does it affect the analogue circuitry in some negative way (transformers, etc)?

Based on various opinions circulating, suppose there was a DAC-only unit named V2+, then connecting the unit to the standalone V2 amp, performance would be higher.

What do you think? My knowledge is quite limited, just wondering about stuff....

 

[Tweakybiff]

After reading things like people preferring setups consisting of separate Burson units such as DA-160 + Soloist (or even the SL version) instead of previous versions of Conductors, I was thinking this: Is there any sort of components/performance compromise when going all-in-one? I mean, the digital board found in the V2+, does it affect the analogue circuitry in some negative way (transformers, etc)?

Based on various opinions circulating, suppose there was a DAC-only unit named V2+, then connecting the unit to the standalone V2 amp, performance would be higher.

What do you think? My knowledge is quite limited, just wondering about stuff....

Interesting question! It really is hard to say. You could certainly put together separates that may not sound as good as an all in one. I am sure you could put together separates that sound way better than the Burson, but for a price. Some consider the best headphone amp to be the McIntosh MHA 150, which is an all in one. It really boils down to the quality of the components, and the thoughtfulness of the design. I have the Conducter V2+, and it sounds amazing on my Audeze LCD-3s. I would be interested in a new Conductor that employs the new ESS DAC, the ES9038PRO.

 

[EternalChampion]

Thoughts: If V2+ was just a "DAC" (digital + analogue board), the analogue PCB would've been almost identical to the one now. In fact I'm curious to know where the "amplifier" section on the V2+ is.....So hooking up the standalone V2 amp to its "DAC-out" port, it makes absolute sense why it would sound even better, because in this way I would simply add a second analogue circuit and hence double the filtering.

It's just a matter of quantity.

That's why people experience improvements going separate.

In simple words, if I had the chance to buy only the "DAC-out" of V2+ and have it connected to my Soloist SL MKII, that would be on par or even kick the Conductor's butt...

"8 watts" is the beautiful healthy tall tree inside the forest.

Maybe I'm interpreting wrong the things here, I just wanted to share my thoughts.

 

[Hifi59]

Keep in mind the the V2+ is a modular design meaning that the Dac can easily be removed by the end user and replaced. I have no doubt that Burson is working on a 9038 and/or 9028 Dac board as an upgrade for current owners of the V2+.

 

[jerick70]

Keep in mind the the V2+ is a modular design meaning that the Dac can easily be removed by the end user and replaced. I have no doubt that Burson is working on a 9038 and/or 9028 Dac board as an upgrade for current owners of the V2+.

When I first purchased my V2+ I asked Alex if there was going to be any upgraded DAC boards. He emphatically said NO! I was hoping for other boards so I could change the sound as I wanted, but sadly it doesn't look like it's going to happen. Maybe Burson has changed their minds.

 

[Hifi59]

When I first purchased my V2+ I asked Alex if there was going to be any upgraded DAC boards. He emphatically said NO! I was hoping for other boards so I could change the sound as I wanted, but sadly it doesn't look like it's going to happen. Maybe Burson has changed their minds.

I had asked him the same and his response was that they are reading every paper on the planet on implementing the 9038 into the V2+. This was several months ago.