[FredA]

Update. 4 hours later..

This upgrade is a real roller coaster... now and then it already reveals some of its qualities.. This will definitely exceed its prestage. Very well worth the effort to perform the job.

I did the full job by:
1. Took out the Amanero module, HDMI-module and the TOS-module.
2. Unsoldered the 2x RCA's and the BNC connector
3. Unsolder the V1-boards, secured the cables on the Digital (mother-)board
4. Took out both the side isolator plates and also the isolation plate to the front (transformer dep.)
5. Loosened the digital boar flipped it up to the front, standing on the transformers. This to get access underneath the XO's solderings. (Mine were soldered tight to the board and was only accessable from the backside of the board. Unsoldered the XO's with thin braid wire.
6. Soldered the new XO's in.
7. Put back the Digital board
8. Carefully soldered the V2 boards to all the wires, then mounted them with the screws. This is pretty straight forward but needs precausion to be correct
9. Soldered back the wires to the RCA's and the BNC connectors
10. Put back the side- and front isolator plates.
11. Put back the Amanero, HDMI and the TOSLINK-module.
12. Top lid on
13. Power On!
Finished!
/Jan

Nice. Seems simple enough. But did not you need to unsolder the i2s wires going from the the digital board to the da-7s? These wires are quite short...

 

[JaMo]

How did you proceed? Did you need a special iron tip to solder?

Hi Fred,

I use a Weller 80W pen with a rather long pointy tip for the finer work. I also have a 100W solder pen with a broader tip when more metal needs heating...like the connectors on the back plate. Temp range around 300-350grC

/Jan

 

[JaMo]

Nice. Seems simple enough. But did not you need to unsolder the i2s wires going from the the digital boards to the da-7s? These wires are quite short...

Yes, all wires. When the isolation plates are out of the way there is good slack on all wires. Quite easy to work with.
/J

 

[FredA]

P

Yes, all wires. When the isolation plates are out of the way there is good slack on all wires. Quite easy to work with.
/J

I am confused. You did not unsolder cause there was enough slack on them or you did but think i could go without?

 

[JaMo]

I am confused. You did not unsolder cause there was enough slack on them or you did but think i could go without?

Sorry for beeing unclear. Yes, also those wires needs to be unsoldered. They will be soldered to the new DA7-V2 boards in exactly the same pattern.

/Jan

 

[FredA]

Thanks very much for sharing. This all makes sense considering you did the da-7 swap at the same time. Not too hard a mod it seems but to make it efficient, i should do the da-7 swap as well. Great stuff Jan!

 

[DACLadder]

5. Loosened the digital board and flipped it up to the front, standing on the transformers. This to get access underneath the XO's solderings. (Mine were soldered tight to the board and was only accessable from the backside of the board. Unsoldered the XO's with thin braid wire.

@JaMo You went the extra mile in removing the digital board to install the XOs flush to the board. This really is the proper method for installing these XOs. Congratulations Jan... sit back and enjoy (in few weeks especially)!

 

[JaMo]

@JaMo You went the extra mile in removing the digital board to install the XOs flush to the board. This really is the proper method for installing these XOs. Congratulations Jan... sit back and enjoy (in few weeks especially)!

Thanks Scott, I am enjoying this right now.

/Jan

 

[UsoppNoKami]

@DACLadder , you have a M7S right?

Would you say you prefer sticking with V3A + 8X OS or running NOS on the TDA firmware? Or 8X OS with TDA?

Just looking for opinions.. i got my altera blaster working, so trying out firmwares now. I have the Master-11 Singularity

Cheers, KJ

 

[DACLadder]

The Singxer SU-6 is very interesting... Sound is awash with high frequencies and they are clean and clear. May be too much highs but I can push volume up and don't really have ear burn. Bass is good as well but it is all about the highs right now. Vocals are excellent!

The SU-6 already sounds better than the F1/SU-1. Compared to the U16 both are pleasing. It is certain nice to not have the operational issues as with the U16. More run-in time is needed.

Have been looking at the inside pictures of the SU-6. The input power source many be switched and regenerated by the "supercapacitor" circuit. A large inductor transformer near the power entry point is usually a sign of a switching regulator. The "supercapacitor" does store an lot of energy as the SU-6 stays on for a minute or two after power is removed. It appears Singxer's design approach to power is to clean up the input power and rely on a cheap power supply. Will a different power source be better? Don't know and see no need to change at this time until broken in.

 

[UsoppNoKami]

The Singxer SU-6 is very interesting... Sound is awash with high frequencies and they are clean and clear. May be too much highs but I can push volume up and don't really have ear burn. Bass is good as well but it is all about the highs right now. Vocals are excellent!

The SU-6 already sounds better than the F1/SU-1. Compared to the U16 both are pleasing. It is certain nice to not have the operational issues as with the U16. More run-in time is needed.

Have been looking at the inside pictures of the SU-6. The input power source many be switched and regenerated by the "supercapacitor" circuit. A large inductor transformer near the power entry point is usually a sign of a switching regulator. The "supercapacitor" does store an lot of energy as the SU-6 stays on for a minute or two after power is removed. It appears Singxer's design approach to power is to clean up the input power and rely on a cheap power supply. Will a different power source be better? Don't know and see no need to change at this time until broken in.

Glad you are enjoying the trouble free experience of SU-6 vs the U16, with comparable sound quality

If you want to try an LPS, here is one that can be used with the SU-6:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100VA-Ultra-low-Noise-LPS-HI-END-R-core-Linear-power-supply-for-audio-DC5V-24V/32691902812.html

I showed the vendor the SU-6 specs early on and he pointed me to this link. They are the shop that did the LPS for my Cavali Liquid Plat, solid work.

 

[DACLadder]

@DACLadder , you have a M7S right?

Would you say you prefer sticking with V3A + 8X OS or running NOS on the TDA firmware? Or 8X OS with TDA?

Just looking for opinions.. i got my altera blaster working, so trying out firmwares now. I have the Master-11 Singularity

Cheers, KJ

Kingwa recommend V3A for the M7S. He says that TDA was optimized for the discreet resistor DACs. But I tried TDA Asy in M7S and it sounded OK after the XO swap. It has been several weeks but may try TDA Asy again with the M7S. So give it a try! You can always go back to something else.

 

[UsoppNoKami]

Kingwa recommend V3A for the M7S. He says that TDA was optimized for the discreet resistor DACs. But I tried TDA Asy in M7S and it sounded OK after the XO swap. It has been several weeks but may try TDA Asy again with the M7S. So give it a try! You can always go back to something else.

Thanks, that is what i suspected. I did try to press him for a outright recommendation in e-mail, but he asked me to just try and see what i like haha.

In any case, it's all new for me as my M11S was a 2017 build and these are the first updates I have done. Will give the V3A a go next, running TDA firmware now.

cheers

 

[DACLadder]

Glad you are enjoying the trouble free experience of SU-6 vs the U16, with comparable sound quality

If you want to try an LPS, here is one that can be used with the SU-6:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100VA-Ultra-low-Noise-LPS-HI-END-R-core-Linear-power-supply-for-audio-DC5V-24V/32691902812.html

I showed the vendor the SU-6 specs early on and he pointed me to this link. They are the shop that did the LPS for my Cavali Liquid Plat, solid work.

Nice! The power supply specs states Output voltage: DC 5V/12V/15V/18V/19V/24V. The SU-6 needs 7.5 to 9V DC. Did the vendor say they can adjust the output voltage to accommodate? And a 100W power supply would be loafing with the SU-6. The supplied power supply is a 25 watter.

 

[DACLadder]

I have a lot of good +5V linear power supplies. So.... I connected one them to the SU-6 with a nice Ghent Audio cable and it booted up and works fine with +5V DC input. This almost confirms that the input power is probably switched and power regenerated by the "supercapacitor" circuit.

The only issue maybe with running +5V input is more input current is required to make the necessary output power requirements versus +7.5V with the supplied power supply. But we are only talking about 15-20W needed to run the SU-6. May work OK longterm if the power input parts can handle a little extra juice.

Does it sound different? Can't really tell at this point. Sure sounds the same.