Need help finishing headphone setup - Schiit Asgard 2 / Beyerdynamics DT880 / AQ: Dragonfly Red
Nov 13, 2019 at 2:25 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 8

nasty nate

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Hi All,

I'm a very new member here but I hope I to explain my setup clearly and concisely. My current setup is as follows:

I have the Beyerdynamics DT880 600 Ohm headphones. They are powered by the Schiit Asgard 2 headphone amp, and my source audio is streamed at an average of 24 bit depth, with 48-192 kHz sample rate.

I have yet to fully break in these headphones and amp, but was concerned with how they sounded immediately. On all tracks, they are hissy / quiet / lacking in detail and rolled off on the top frequencies. As a remedy, I ordered the only piece of the setup - puzzle that was missing (in my mind); namely a DAC (AudioQuest Dragonfly Red). I've also tried using the Gain Switch on the Asgard, but a higher gain only reveals the issues further, as they get exaggerated and often times worse...

My question is, am I missing something in my setup? I understand that I can purchase a more expensive DAC / audio source, as I am currently using my MacBook Pro 2017 onboard audio, but through lesser headphones (like the Bowers and Wilkins PX's), my music sounds stellar. I have yet to test the DragonFly Red with my music, but I anticipate a slight if at all noticeable improvement. It will act as a USB-C to 3.5mm conversion, then will feed directly into the Asgard 2.

I'm looking for any kind of guidance here, as all of you probably know finding a consensus in the audiophile community can sometimes be difficult. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.


Setup:

Amazon HD Music -> MBP 2017 USB-C -> AudioQuest DragonFly Red -> Asgard 2 -> Beyerdynamics


Thanks all for your help!

-Nate C., Aspiring Audiophile
 
Nov 13, 2019 at 6:58 PM Post #2 of 8
I have the Beyerdynamics DT880 600 Ohm headphones. They are powered by the Schiit Asgard 2 headphone amp, and my source audio is streamed at an average of 24 bit depth, with 48-192 kHz sample rate.

I have yet to fully break in these headphones and amp, but was concerned with how they sounded immediately. On all tracks, they are hissy / quiet / lacking in detail and rolled off on the top frequencies. As a remedy, I ordered the only piece of the setup - puzzle that was missing (in my mind); namely a DAC (AudioQuest Dragonfly Red). I've also tried using the Gain Switch on the Asgard, but a higher gain only reveals the issues further, as they get exaggerated and often times worse...

My question is, am I missing something in my setup? I understand that I can purchase a more expensive DAC / audio source, as I am currently using my MacBook Pro 2017 onboard audio, but through lesser headphones (like the Bowers and Wilkins PX's), my music sounds stellar. I have yet to test the DragonFly Red with my music, but I anticipate a slight if at all noticeable improvement. It will act as a USB-C to 3.5mm conversion, then will feed directly into the Asgard 2.

I'm looking for any kind of guidance here, as all of you probably know finding a consensus in the audiophile community can sometimes be difficult. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.


Setup:

Amazon HD Music -> MBP 2017 USB-C -> AudioQuest DragonFly Red -> Asgard 2 -> Beyerdynamics

There are a number of things that could be causing the problem, and not just one but likely all of them together.

First off, do you have the OS volume control at 100%?

Second, you either didn't have a DAC or now you have a DFR. You're using either a Macbook's likely lower voltage to noise ratio with a DAC that, while rated for 2.1v, as best I can tell from the website is basically a headphone output (ie doesn't bypass the driver chip, or using it as an output op-amp) so still not quite the same as a plain 2v line output.

Third, either you're sending a low digital output signal to the DAC (#1) or having a skewed voltage vs noise ratio in the signal (#2) into an amp that has power output really trailing off by 600ohms. As much as high impedance tends to lower distortion and noise, if the amp has to be cranked up (even worse if it has to compensate for a weak input signal from any point upstream of the amp), then you're making the amp work twice as hard, negating the benefits of high impedance on distortion and noise. Higher gain getting that much worse suggests the noise is already in the signal, but then there's the problem - it might be coming from your Macbook.

Easiest, cheapest fix (assumign OS volume control is at 100%, or the problem persists when you try it) is to try a different computer at a different location, ie borrow a laptop from a friend and try it at his house (heck, bring your laptop; if the noise isn't there at his place with your laptop, then that noise could be a power line issue). If the problem persists at that location on both laptops, try a different DAC, like the Modi3 (make sure to plug it into its own USB power supply). At the very least the signal should be a bit louder. If that doesn't work either sell the Asgard and try a Little Dot Mk2 (note: this is not the best amp for low impedance headphones, so if you're not particularly fond of that DT880...) or sell the DT880 and try some other headphone with lower impedance.
 
Nov 13, 2019 at 8:40 PM Post #3 of 8
There are a number of things that could be causing the problem, and not just one but likely all of them together.

First off, do you have the OS volume control at 100%?

Second, you either didn't have a DAC or now you have a DFR. You're using either a Macbook's likely lower voltage to noise ratio with a DAC that, while rated for 2.1v, as best I can tell from the website is basically a headphone output (ie doesn't bypass the driver chip, or using it as an output op-amp) so still not quite the same as a plain 2v line output.

Third, either you're sending a low digital output signal to the DAC (#1) or having a skewed voltage vs noise ratio in the signal (#2) into an amp that has power output really trailing off by 600ohms. As much as high impedance tends to lower distortion and noise, if the amp has to be cranked up (even worse if it has to compensate for a weak input signal from any point upstream of the amp), then you're making the amp work twice as hard, negating the benefits of high impedance on distortion and noise. Higher gain getting that much worse suggests the noise is already in the signal, but then there's the problem - it might be coming from your Macbook.

Easiest, cheapest fix (assumign OS volume control is at 100%, or the problem persists when you try it) is to try a different computer at a different location, ie borrow a laptop from a friend and try it at his house (heck, bring your laptop; if the noise isn't there at his place with your laptop, then that noise could be a power line issue). If the problem persists at that location on both laptops, try a different DAC, like the Modi3 (make sure to plug it into its own USB power supply). At the very least the signal should be a bit louder. If that doesn't work either sell the Asgard and try a Little Dot Mk2 (note: this is not the best amp for low impedance headphones, so if you're not particularly fond of that DT880...) or sell the DT880 and try some other headphone with lower impedance.


Thank you for your help. Yes the volume is maxed out on everything, from the source app to the OS. Now that I have the DFR (arrived just this afternoon), I've noticed huge improvements, but not with the Beyerdynamics. I also have a pair of Sennheiser HD 700s with me, and while I know these are 150 Ohms, the improvements are night and day.

I guess my questions that now remain are: were the Beyers that hard to drive? You mention the Asgard was lacking at that impedance, as opposed to 190mW max output at 600Ohms, what would be sufficient to drive these DT880s?

While I have your attention, I hope you don't mind I ask you a few more.

You mention I'm not using a 'plain 2v output', is that achievable with a MacBook with only usb connection? If I understand correctly, perhaps a dedicated DAC / non-integrated amp would be better? I assumed the DFR would act solely as a DAC and the Mac would simply pass the digital signal to it, untouched.

Power supply is another concern here on my desk. There are lots of power hungry devices ticking away while I listen. Should this setup be isolated, or at the very least connected to a conditioned or clean power source? I wasn't aware this could be a big enough factor.


--

For my personal taste, the Beyers are too bright and from what I read some others feel the same way (mentioning a 'V' shaped sound, even when properly driven). My last question for this setup, is what headphones (assuming I work out the noise issues) would you recommend? I have experience with Sennheisers, and the HD600s look like a good match, but as always your wisdom is appreciated.

I'll try your location tests to work out the noise issues, all very good ideas!
 
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Nov 14, 2019 at 6:16 PM Post #4 of 8
Thank you for your help. Yes the volume is maxed out on everything, from the source app to the OS. Now that I have the DFR (arrived just this afternoon), I've noticed huge improvements, but not with the Beyerdynamics. I also have a pair of Sennheiser HD 700s with me, and while I know these are 150 Ohms, the improvements are night and day.

I guess my questions that now remain are: were the Beyers that hard to drive? You mention the Asgard was lacking at that impedance, as opposed to 190mW max output at 600Ohms, what would be sufficient to drive these DT880s?

190mW isn't insufficient for 600ohms, it's what it produces at 600ohms. What that is insufficient for is the 96dB/1mW sensitivity of the Beyer, which doesn't improve with the 600ohm impedance. All that does is reduce distortion (and noise) with high output impedance circuits driving it, like high power consoles in studios that have a lot more voltage but have low current delivery and run at Class A/B instead of the high waste heat, ultra low THD+N on hifi amps like the Asgard. Think of the comparison like why home speaker amps can be 15watt per channel Pass Labs pure Class A ultra low noise amps while pro amps are Class G 300wpc amps.

On its own 190mW should be sufficient, but the thing is, there's still gain. It's like having a good enough turbo engine on a light enough car, but the transmission has the wrong gear ratios. A lower voltage to noise ratio signal input into that amp is like using regular fuel on, say, a current gen Honda Civic Type R's 1.5L turbo engine. Just because Regular works fine on a 2.4L Accord engine doesn't mean a smaller, highly tuned engine wouldn't benefit from Premium gas.

If you had the 250ohm version the Asgard would produce more power, and likely the gain would be sufficient, but there's still the noise that's coming through from the source signal. There's still the question of whether it's just the Asgard struggling with the 600ohm headphone that the noise benefits are overturned or the noise is coming from the rest of the signal chain. If there's noise in your other lower impedance headphones, then it's likely the signal upstream from the Asgard, up to your power lines (which is why I said test your gear at another location, albeit it can't be something like a noisy coffee shop where you might not hear the noise). If not, then the problem is in the interaction between the Asgard and the 600ohm headphone, and at this point you have to decide whether you want to keep a 600ohm headphone and get a more powerful amp that won't have trouble with lower impedance headphones (more so if the sensitivity is markedly lower) or use an amp optimized for voltage but with crap current delivery into low impedance, low sensitivity headphones, like an OTL tube amplifier.


While I have your attention, I hope you don't mind I ask you a few more.

You mention I'm not using a 'plain 2v output', is that achievable with a MacBook with only usb connection?

Yes. It depends on the DAC's circuit. If it's not dependent on USB power or has a separate USB power port from the signal port, then there's a higher chance it's not limited to motherboard 500mA and thus usually spec-ed for 2V output, and probably also much lower noise.


If I understand correctly, perhaps a dedicated DAC / non-integrated amp would be better? I assumed the DFR would act solely as a DAC and the Mac would simply pass the digital signal to it, untouched.

Yes and No.

Yes, the Mac does pass the digital signal "untouched" unless you use some kind of software.

No, having an amp and DAC integrated into one chassis sharing the same power supply is not always bad. You can use something like a Burson Conductor or Violectric V280 and these can spit out a lot of power and current better than some dedicated amps, but then again that's a $2,000 DAC-HPamp-Preamp unit. Your problem there is that the DFR's DAC and HPamp circuits are running off USB power, so using it as a headphone amp isn't ideal for anything with very high impedance (requires voltage) or low impedance, low sensitivty (requires power and current), while the circuit might not be the cleanest DAC output into a headphone amp if the signal passes through the HPamp output stage anyway since amplification circuits inevitably add noise. That's why stacking amps where one amp adds noise and the second amp amplifies the entire signal including the noise isn't ideal - amps for hifi use don't exactly work like anime robots connecting two beam canons in series to increase range or have enough power to punch all the way through a space navy capital ship with an anti-beam coating/shield.


Power supply is another concern here on my desk. There are lots of power hungry devices ticking away while I listen. Should this setup be isolated, or at the very least connected to a conditioned or clean power source? I wasn't aware this could be a big enough factor.

It's not simply how much power all those other things near it need from the wall so long as the wall power can deliver that power, whether you have a voltage regulator/UPS or not. Someone with an SFF computer with an APU or a NUC (Mac Mini in Apple terms) can still get a lot of noise into audio components.

You can try a noise isolation device but remember that this isn't always a guarantee that it would eliminate all the noise, regardless of whether some of the noise is coming from one of the audio components or the wall. This is why I'd save it for last and try to eliminate it or see how much it actually contributes vs one of the audio components by testing your gear elsewhere, considering this isn't a speaker system that for example all needs to get tested at a dedicated audio room like a hifi dealer's showroom just to see if the house/flat is the problem. I mean I'd still hook up my audio components to a separate line conditioner than the voltage regulator the computer is hooked up to, with both connected to separate power outlets, but for starters I already have a Meier Cantate.2 that can use its internal USB input from an Android on Airplane Mode, and with no music playing and the volume cranked up, there's absolutely zero noise; ie, this is a


For my personal taste, the Beyers are too bright and from what I read some others feel the same way (mentioning a 'V' shaped sound, even when properly driven). My last question for this setup, is what headphones (assuming I work out the noise issues) would you recommend? I have experience with Sennheisers, and the HD600s look like a good match, but as always your wisdom is appreciated.

Is there noise when using the lower impedance headphones? If there's none on the DFR driving them, then it's probably not the Macbook or the power line. Then it's either you replace the Asgard or the DT880, plus add a DAC to work with whatever amp you'll end up using.
 
Nov 14, 2019 at 10:36 PM Post #5 of 8
Wow, a very detailed response! I appreciate the time you are taking to address these concerns. It felt earlier as though I needed a Mechanical / Electrical Engineering degree to start to understand these mathematical limits / rules in the hardware. I have a Computer Science degree and I still struggle.

I keep reading that the AQ DFR will act only as a DAC if the volume is maxed out on the source input (ie the Mac OS level), this however was not mentioned in the manual it came with. Most of the threads and research articles I've read mention that the AQ is smart enough to allow the signal through non-amplified, but I have no idea how the circuitry is actually designed or implemented. I guess time and further reading will tell.

You mention that the motherboard produces 500 mA through the USB-port and the resulting DAC is 'limited' to that power. The Mac appears to be capable of much higher power output (5.2V x 2.1A) but it may be limited by the USB-C to USB-A conversion happening right before the DFR. To reduce noise, I'd want the full 2V entering the DAC, and it leaving that signal non-amplified? I apologize in advance for my thick headedness :) The DAC itself is rated for 2.1 V out, what am I missing here?

--

With the inclusion of the HD600's (a choice I've made already, as my father had a pair [and a pair of the 650s!] and loved them), do you think the Asgard 2 will suit them from a pure - amplifier perspective? Assuming everything upstream was as you wanted? I only ask this because my experiments up-stream are ongoing but as a systems debugger as my profession, I have to start eliminating the properly driven aspects of my setup, or I fear I may run loops, switching equipment continuously without actually knowing the source of the noise / distortion / unpleasantries.

For instance if I switch the DAC out for another independently driven DAC, I may not notice a difference or the problem may simply change. The problem would remain unknown.

To answer your question, yes the lower impedance headphones sound leaps and bounds better than the Beyers, I suppose my less-than-perfect signal to noise ratio was only worsened by the Beyers.


The anime robots analogy was great haha, I had assumed something along those lines. Correct me if I'm wrong but an ideal setup for my means would resemble something like this? -->

HD FLAC / Lossless Source -> Digital Signal Converted via independently powered DAC -> Asgard2 -> HD600s ? Now I would love to have a fully Mcintosh setup with beautiful Tube amplifiers and perfect vinyl to boot, but as my title says I am merely aspiring, not fully fledged.

This is my first time on a forum like this, out of curiosity, what is your setup like? I'm sure an audiophile guru such as yourself has options. Perhaps I can treat it as an obtainable goal, however long it takes me.

-Nate
 
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Nov 15, 2019 at 4:31 AM Post #6 of 8
You mention that the motherboard produces 500 mA through the USB-port and the resulting DAC is 'limited' to that power. The Mac appears to be capable of much higher power output (5.2V x 2.1A) but it may be limited by the USB-C to USB-A conversion happening right before the DFR.

AFAIK the DFR is designed for USB2.0 or 3.0 so it takes 500mA.


To reduce noise, I'd want the full 2V entering the DAC, and it leaving that signal non-amplified? I apologize in advance for my thick headedness :) The DAC itself is rated for 2.1 V out, what am I missing here?

Actually the DAC receives 5V from the motherboard to power itself. The analogue signal it spits out is 2.1V strong.


With the inclusion of the HD600's (a choice I've made already, as my father had a pair [and a pair of the 650s!] and loved them), do you think the Asgard 2 will suit them from a pure - amplifier perspective? Assuming everything upstream was as you wanted? I only ask this because my experiments up-stream are ongoing but as a systems debugger as my profession, I have to start eliminating the properly driven aspects of my setup, or I fear I may run loops, switching equipment continuously without actually knowing the source of the noise / distortion / unpleasantries.

If it's by my expectations, yes.

Everybody else expecting the HD600 to try to be something else, like a K701 (ie with massive soundstage), then no.


For instance if I switch the DAC out for another independently driven DAC, I may not notice a difference or the problem may simply change. The problem would remain unknown.

There's no guarantee, true.

But the thing is unless an audio engineer goes in there and starts taking each component apart and measuring somewhere else to figure out where the noise is coming from, there's no other way to figure it out. An actual audio engineer might just bring in other gear and swap them around first too.

It's kind of like how my brother's computer started failing to load games and other apps, so that might be the graphics card. Or the drivers. But then he updated the drivers, so something is happening to the graphics card hardware...so the following nights he swapped out which PCI-E slot his EVGA XC Ultra RTX 2070 Super was in, swapped out which ports on the PSU the PCI-E power was connected, gave up, borrowed my computer, removed my GTX 1070 Ti Duke, put the XC Ultra in my computer, ran it, doesn't work, put the Duke 1070 Ti in his computer, in all slots, using all available PCI-E power slots on the PSU to eliminate every possibility before contacting EVGA who then told him to try any other graphics card so we dug out an old GTX 980 and when that worked they authorized an RMA and replaced his card.

In other words...troubleshooting in whatever hobby kinda tends to involve a lot of trial and error.


The anime robots analogy was great haha, I had assumed something along those lines. Correct me if I'm wrong but an ideal setup for my means would resemble something like this? -->

HD FLAC / Lossless Source -> Digital Signal Converted via independently powered DAC -> Asgard2 -> HD600s ?

Yes. That or a one chassis DAC-HPamp.


This is my first time on a forum like this, out of curiosity, what is your setup like? I'm sure an audiophile guru such as yourself has options. Perhaps I can treat it as an obtainable goal, however long it takes me.

Reference
Android smartphone (Airplane Mode) with FLAC through Neutron Music Player or locally stored Spotify >USB OTG> Meier Cantate.2 (Pangea HP101 at my brother's house when I'm on vacation) >> Sennheiser HD600

Transportable
Android smartphone > Ibasso D-Zero > Grado SR80e

Portable
Android smartphone > Aurisonics ASG-1 or Westone W2
 
Nov 25, 2019 at 2:19 PM Post #7 of 8
Sorry for the delay in my response, I've been tinkering and enjoying my setup. I think I'm well within the sound I've wanted.

If I may, I have some related questions I'd like to ask about various parts of my setup. (Protege or anyone interested can answer)

My current setup is as follows:

HD Music (up to 24 bit / 192 khz) -> USB-C to micro -> Modi 3 (Delta Sigma, not multibit) -> Asgard 2 -> HD600s -> My pleasantly surprised ears

First question: Do you think replacement cables are worth it for the HD600s? I've read posts from several owners of the headphone that replacement cables (even the HD650 cables) are worth it and can produce a better sound. Do you agree? My budget here would be equal to or less than $120.

Next, I'm curious as to whether I need to 'match' my song's source stats (namely the bit rate and sample rate) to the specs on the DAC? (via Audio-Midi). For the Modi3, I have many choices, ranging from 16-bit 44.1 to 32 bit and crazy high refresh rates. Does this matter? I'm assuming that some kind of mathematical restructuring of the signal must occur if the bit rate and sample rate of the song does not match that of the DAC's mode. I often switch from album to album as I listen and they often have different sample rates and bit depths.

Lastly, do you believe that the Asgard / sennheisers need break in time? All together I believe I have less than 100 hours on them; I'm curious if you think more hours will produce a different / better sound signature? Maybe warmer? Also, do you believe / know if the solid state Asgard needs to warm up before operation? To my ears, it appears that the sound improves over several hours of listening, but I could be adjusting to the sound as I listen / experiencing placebo / etc.

As always, thank you for your expertise. Aspiring audiophiles can unfortunately have both wide eyes and wide pockets, ripe for misleading.

Best,

-Nate
 
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Nov 25, 2019 at 6:05 PM Post #8 of 8
My current setup is as follows:

HD Music (up to 24 bit / 192 khz) -> USB-C to micro -> Modi 3 (Delta Sigma, not multibit) -> Asgard 2 -> HD600s -> My pleasantly surprised ears

First question: Do you think replacement cables are worth it for the HD600s? I've read posts from several owners of the headphone that replacement cables (even the HD650 cables) are worth it and can produce a better sound. Do you agree? My budget here would be equal to or less than $120.

Yes, it might alter the sound.

No, I can't say whether:
1. It will be audible to you
2. If will be worth it to you over, say, using software equalizer, since I tried silver cables that cost more and I stuck with my OFC copper cables

Personally I only replaced my HD600 cable because it was too long. The tough Neutrik plug was just a bonus, and so was the improvement in the midrange and bass that came with slightly smoothened treble.


Next, I'm curious as to whether I need to 'match' my song's source stats (namely the bit rate and sample rate) to the specs on the DAC? (via Audio-Midi). For the Modi3, I have many choices, ranging from 16-bit 44.1 to 32 bit and crazy high refresh rates. Does this matter? I'm assuming that some kind of mathematical restructuring of the signal must occur if the bit rate and sample rate of the song does not match that of the DAC's mode. I often switch from album to album as I listen and they often have different sample rates and bit depths.

Yes, your DAC needs to operate at the same bit depth and sampling frequency as the files it's decoding so you absolutely avoid any resampling.

Just let the files stream at native resolution so Windows doesn't try upsampling and oversampling on the lower bit depth+sampling rate files either, more so because this is the one that's proven to alter the sound. For a long time since the upsampling 20bit CDPs it was assumed to be an improvement until somebody found an ultrasonic noise in the signal.

That said, if I have to be restrained by my funds, I'd take downsampling than up/oversampling any day.


Lastly, do you believe that the Asgard / sennheisers need break in time? All together I believe I have less than 100 hours on them; I'm curious if you think more hours will produce a different / better sound signature? Maybe warmer?

The Sennheisers need break-in since break-in is for mechanical components, like the internals of an engine. The suspension on the drivers and compression on the pads will both contribute to some change in sound.

That said the only time I really observed it happening was with my Wharfedale Diamond speakers that sounded like tin cans, left them running overnight, got back, sat in front of them, then it finished one track...and the next track sounded better. I'm sure it wasn't the amp, since I tried two amps before and after, not to mention "break in" is for anything that actually moves (and the only ones that move on an amp are the controls, like the knob). On headphones, I bought my HD600 used, and the sound improvement was from replacing the mushy earpads, and out went the boomy decay on bass notes and some bloat at the lower vocal range, as well as trimming the sharpness in the cymbals and vocals.

And honestly apart from just leaving it running playing real music I really wouldn't think much of it. Just sit there and use them.


Maybe warmer? Also, do you believe / know if the solid state Asgard needs to warm up before operation? To my ears, it appears that the sound improves over several hours of listening, but I could be adjusting to the sound as I listen / experiencing placebo / etc.

I always warm up all my amps. The hybrid amp because it sounds like a tin can before the tube warms up. Otherwise it has more to do with my routine. I might as well flip the power switch on my DAC-HPamps (depending on which one is connected; I bought one as back up and now I use it as a transportable since it's a small hybrid) when I drop my bag on my desk, then go feed my cat, have a beer and a cig by the window while the cat eats, take a shower...after all that I get back to a warm amp.
 

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