My first build log... AMB Mini³ w/ lots of pictures!
Nov 10, 2010 at 12:31 AM Post #16 of 50


Quote:
Day 1: Soldered the opamps and first few resistors. Stopped early because I realized I was having a diffcult time preparing the leads, so I hopped on Mouser and ordered a few tools (namely a pair of Plaxo component lead snips, as well as a cheap component lead shaping tool. I was having difficult shaping/bending the resistors in a consistent manner and was getting annoyed with the lack of symmetry.


i think this tool might interest you...

http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/obscuretools
 
 
Nov 10, 2010 at 9:58 AM Post #17 of 50
I have one that I bought from Mouser specifically for this project. I used it to form the leads on the D4 diode but that's it, it's pretty much useless for the rest of the project. The smallest slot on the tool is still way too large for ANY of the resistors, diodes (except D4) or ferrite beads.
 
Nov 10, 2010 at 10:26 AM Post #18 of 50
Hi, great workmanship. Your experience definitley shows. You have nice cones on pretty much all those joints.
 
I've just made my first amp - a CMoyBB from JDSLabs and it's (eventually) working. I did notice in your earlier pics that you had a bottle of flux on your desk. I think I may have assumed something but when I bought my 63/37 solder as I'd read that it had flux in it and I didn't realise you needed more.
Is this something you recommend getting and how/where do you use it i.e. do you dip the end of the solder in it like for plumbing or add a drop to the board before soldering, or both?
 
 
One more question please, did you evaluate the PPA V2 before making this one? Any thoughts?
Cheers
 
Nov 10, 2010 at 1:04 PM Post #19 of 50
Thanks for the kind words mate.
 
As far as I know, most solder (mine included) has a bulit in core of flux. However it's been my experience that it's MUCH, much easier to get the solder to flow into the joint propely and form a solid connection/bond if you lay some flux down on the joint (lead and pad) first. I use a paintbrush to first cover each joint lightly in flux before putting the iron to it. You can still achieve good results without the use of added liquid (or paste) flux, though it certainly helps and makes forming the joints much more reliable and consistantly.
 
Here's a short but extremely informative video on proper soldering technique and theory, I highly suggest that everyone watch it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
 
Quote:
Hi, great workmanship. Your experience definitley shows. You have nice cones on pretty much all those joints.
 
I've just made my first amp - a CMoyBB from JDSLabs and it's (eventually) working. I did notice in your earlier pics that you had a bottle of flux on your desk. I think I may have assumed something but when I bought my 63/37 solder as I'd read that it had flux in it and I didn't realise you needed more.
Is this something you recommend getting and how/where do you use it i.e. do you dip the end of the solder in it like for plumbing or add a drop to the board before soldering, or both?
 
 
One more question please, did you evaluate the PPA V2 before making this one? Any thoughts?
Cheers



 
Nov 10, 2010 at 10:25 PM Post #20 of 50


Quote:
I have one that I bought from Mouser specifically for this project. I used it to form the leads on the D4 diode but that's it, it's pretty much useless for the rest of the project. The smallest slot on the tool is still way too large for ANY of the resistors, diodes (except D4) or ferrite beads.



 
i see what you're saying... for 1/8 watt through hole i just bring the ends together, thread them through the holes, and pull the resistor to the board. they will self center if pulled evenly. 
 
Nov 11, 2010 at 9:47 PM Post #22 of 50

 

 

 
Day 5: Almost finished! Finished the headphone jacks, U2 voltage regulator and charger port tonight, now I'm just waiting on the battery and case to arrive so I can fit the battery terminals and LEDs, and then I'll start testing!
 
Nov 21, 2010 at 10:31 PM Post #23 of 50
I received my battery earlier this week and finished component installation this morning! I have yet to mount the power LED as it's nearly impossible to eyeball without the drilled case panels to line it up against. The charging LED was fairly straightforward as it aligns with the exact center of the charging port, though that was still a pain in the ass to mount and secure.
 
I'm still waiting on the case to arrive, though Digikey claims it will be arriving shortly from backorder. I might go ahead and cancel that part of my order with them as Mouser seems to have it in stock, and shipping would be cheaper as they're about 20 miles away from my home in Dallas.
 
 

 
All components installed!
 

 
Beginning the initial checks and testing
 

 
Everything works, sounds great! Unfortunately I returned my Phonak PFEs so I'm still looking for another good set of IEMs, but I should have plenty of time to decide until the case arrives :)
 
Nov 22, 2010 at 4:50 AM Post #25 of 50


Quote:
Quote:
 
Day 1: Soldered the opamps and first few resistors. Stopped early because I realized I was having a diffcult time preparing the leads, so I hopped on Mouser and ordered a few tools (namely a pair of Plaxo component lead snips, as well as a cheap component lead shaping tool. I was having difficult shaping/bending the resistors in a consistent manner and was getting annoyed with the lack of symmetry.


i think this tool might interest you...

http://www.evilmadscientist.com/article.php/obscuretools
 


Thanks sonicj!
 
This is one of those tools I wanted that I never knew I wanted.  I can see that being so useful.  I really hated how uneven everything was and bending them and having them off center drove me crazy--the old acute OCD kicking in.
 
And since I'm so weak to shiny things, I'm considering the other tools listed as well.
 
Nov 22, 2010 at 12:37 PM Post #27 of 50


Quote:
Thank you for your kind words CEE TEE.
 
The one tool I've found to be absolutely invaluable during this project is a nice pair of needle-nose pliers. I ordered a set of Klein D335-51 pliers from Amazon and they have been immensely helpful in forming the leads quickly and consistantly. The 90* bend on the U2 voltage regulator was a little intimidating (I was worried about stressing the leads too much during forming or making them uneven) but I took my time and they came out well. 


agreed, I have like 3 different types of needle nose pliers. dont worry about the to220, no need to fuss just push it over with your thumb before installing lol i'm serious. I have one of the above lead benders, I only use it for rough prototyping work, good pliers are both quicker and give a better result IMO, its tough to get a sharp neat bend with the lead bender and by the time you do you may as well have done it with pliers. the lead bender tends to put too wide a radius on the bend 
 
Nov 23, 2010 at 1:22 AM Post #28 of 50
Now that you have an amp, I'd suggest looking at the RE262 as your next IEM. They are power hungry, but boy do they sound phenomenal. Without an amp they sound great, but with an amp they turn into a different beast all together. Your Mini3 should provide enough voltage swing with the 9V battery for the high impedance.
 
Nov 23, 2010 at 1:56 AM Post #29 of 50
Wow, I'm impressed OP. Almost perfect soldering technique, especially for a first timer. Hell, your technique is better than mine.
 
Also, sure is OCD in here. 
blink.gif
 What does it matter if the resistors aren't perfectly straight?
 
I guess I'll never understand you perfectionists.
 
Nov 23, 2010 at 1:22 PM Post #30 of 50
Well to be fair it's not even close to my first time soldering, just attemping to build a circuit from scratch.
 
Nothing wrong with a little OCD :)

 
Quote:
Wow, I'm impressed OP. Almost perfect soldering technique, especially for a first timer. Hell, your technique is better than mine.
 
Also, sure is OCD in here. 
blink.gif
 What does it matter if the resistors aren't perfectly straight?
 
I guess I'll never understand you perfectionists.



 

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