Here is the diafragm and the stator
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My DIY electrostatic headphones
- Thread starter chinsettawong
- Start date
chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
I see. So you’re doing something similar to the SR-Omega. The diameter of the diaphragm on the inner circle of the spacer ring is actually 90 or 88 mm, right? The diameter of your stator is around 80 mm, right?
Do you tension the diaphragm by hand with a digital scale? What do you use to coat the diaphragm?
Do you tension the diaphragm by hand with a digital scale? What do you use to coat the diaphragm?
for coating, I use graphene-containing antistatic spray for monitors.
And yes i use a digital scale with a rubber band and stretch to about 100-150 grams in each direction
And yes i use a digital scale with a rubber band and stretch to about 100-150 grams in each direction
THEYiftah
New Head-Fier
I have read this whole thread through now, I have to say it has been fantastic
SomeWhatUniqueUsername
New Head-Fier
Just wondering, how much will the shape of the stator (as in the holes/acoustic transparency) affect the sound? How much do the size and shape of the holes matter?
chinsettawong
Headphoneus Supremus
Bigger driver area tends to give a bigger soundstage. As for the different hole sizes, I hear very little difference.
mattmatt
100+ Head-Fier
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Just want to ask, for making stators and spacers, how to I make it that the whole panel has copper? I tried importing it and exporting it as is but beneath the mask, there is no copper.you may also try DipTrace. it has a free version, easy to use, has dxf import and the gerber export is just two clicks
The size of the holes and the distance between them seriously affects the power (efficiency) of the driver
UniqueName
New Head-Fier
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Hello chinsettawong and friends,
Thank you so much for creating and contributing to this thread. This thread has inspired me to make my own diy estats and am extremely pleased with the results.
Build:
1.2mm stators, .6mm spacers. 110x75 active area. Drivers are angled 8 degrees inside the cups. 3 um diaphragm coated with a mixture of graphene car detail spray and antistatic gel cleanser tensioned somewhere between .5-1% elongation (took many tries to get right lol). Pads and Headband are not diy. Headband is a sony r10 clone I got off aliexpress (honestly surprised at the quality/comfort - it's really good) and pads are esp950 vesper pads I bought a long time ago.
I still have some cleanup work to do, need to properly strain relief the wires going into the cups and would like to add a grille/dust protection. There is a minor squeal that I would like to get rid of before I do those things but I was able to do give these a listening session last night and WOW. I have not heard any TOTL estats but these are fantastic sounding.
Any advice on diagnosing the squeal? My guess is dust on the stators but I am not so sure because I was careful to make sure they were clean before assembling.
Thank you so much for creating and contributing to this thread. This thread has inspired me to make my own diy estats and am extremely pleased with the results.
Build:
1.2mm stators, .6mm spacers. 110x75 active area. Drivers are angled 8 degrees inside the cups. 3 um diaphragm coated with a mixture of graphene car detail spray and antistatic gel cleanser tensioned somewhere between .5-1% elongation (took many tries to get right lol). Pads and Headband are not diy. Headband is a sony r10 clone I got off aliexpress (honestly surprised at the quality/comfort - it's really good) and pads are esp950 vesper pads I bought a long time ago.
I still have some cleanup work to do, need to properly strain relief the wires going into the cups and would like to add a grille/dust protection. There is a minor squeal that I would like to get rid of before I do those things but I was able to do give these a listening session last night and WOW. I have not heard any TOTL estats but these are fantastic sounding.
Any advice on diagnosing the squeal? My guess is dust on the stators but I am not so sure because I was careful to make sure they were clean before assembling.
Attachments
High voltage is very high (over 800 volts)
or you have crooked stators
or you have crooked stators
mattmatt
100+ Head-Fier
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Those are amazing looking! Mind sharing what your drivers look like?Hello chinsettawong and friends,
Thank you so much for creating and contributing to this thread. This thread has inspired me to make my own diy estats and am extremely pleased with the results.
Build:
1.2mm stators, .6mm spacers. 110x75 active area. Drivers are angled 8 degrees inside the cups. 3 um diaphragm coated with a mixture of graphene car detail spray and antistatic gel cleanser tensioned somewhere between .5-1% elongation (took many tries to get right lol). Pads and Headband are not diy. Headband is a sony r10 clone I got off aliexpress (honestly surprised at the quality/comfort - it's really good) and pads are esp950 vesper pads I bought a long time ago.
I still have some cleanup work to do, need to properly strain relief the wires going into the cups and would like to add a grille/dust protection. There is a minor squeal that I would like to get rid of before I do those things but I was able to do give these a listening session last night and WOW. I have not heard any TOTL estats but these are fantastic sounding.
Any advice on diagnosing the squeal? My guess is dust on the stators but I am not so sure because I was careful to make sure they were clean before assembling.
Excellent work , bravo
UniqueName
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Those are amazing looking! Mind sharing what your drivers look like?
You're in luck. I was just taking them a part to try and figure out the squeal.
mattmatt
100+ Head-Fier
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did you cnc your own PCB or had it done by a company? Mind me asking whats your hole diameter and spacing?You're in luck. I was just taking them a part to try and figure out the squeal.
tib8
New Head-Fier
Well, you switch between the layers in the topmost toolbar (Top Assembly, Silk, Mask, etc.), so lets choose there the "Signal" layer.Just want to ask, for making stators and spacers, how to I make it that the whole panel has copper? I tried importing it and exporting it as is but beneath the mask, there is no copper.
Then use the "Place Shape" icon to draw a "filled obround" for example. (With T/B keys you may switch between the top/bottom signal layer.)
Then for the hole pattern put a lot of "Mounting Holes" (then select them and edit their "Keepout to be zero". (in the free version the number of pads is limited, but the number of mounting holes is not...)
On the "Board cutout" layer you may draw arcs and lines. For connection you will need to draw a few pads and traces.
(Alternatively you may import the hole positions and the cutout from DXF and draw only the signal and mask layers manually.)
When you are ready you can export the gerber files from the File menu...
For the spacers I use a not filled obround, and edit the line thickness to have a ring shaped chopper, and do not forget to draw the same to the mask layer to have Lead instead of colored lacque over the choper.
I usually draw my stators / spacers in the "Patern Editor" and insert them as a single component into the "PCB Layout" only for exporting.
Let me know if this helped or you need an example file!
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