My DIY electrostatic headphones
May 14, 2019 at 8:05 AM Post #3,331 of 4,058
If I just short it all, the charge will be equal or even disable it self.
If I will put any resistor it will use the charge for heating.
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I remembering something about zener diodes or another element that Stax using inside theire headphones, I dont know what it can prevent.
(cant find any Stax driver images)
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these drivers look like the old Beyerdynamic 880DT with the protection circuit. it makes sense in pro-use with musicians in dynamic drivers.
 
May 14, 2019 at 8:13 AM Post #3,332 of 4,058
these drivers look like the old Beyerdynamic 880DT with the protection circuit. it makes sense in pro-use with musicians in dynamic drivers.
I saw the same things on Stax headphones.
somehow I planning to renew them or put some on my other headphones, dynamic and electrostatic.
which zener diodes/diodes to use?

do you have any idea about how to build the female cap/cover for the connection to protect the heaphones from parasitic capacitence?
*or othe issues when you store them after usage.

I can make lot of female connectors from 2 * XLR 3PINS connectors.

thanks.
 
May 14, 2019 at 1:36 PM Post #3,333 of 4,058
I saw the same things on Stax headphones.
somehow I planning to renew them or put some on my other headphones, dynamic and electrostatic.
which zener diodes/diodes to use?

do you have any idea about how to build the female cap/cover for the connection to protect the heaphones from parasitic capacitence?
*or othe issues when you store them after usage.

I can make lot of female connectors from 2 * XLR 3PINS connectors.

thanks.

the Quad ESL uses the clampboard as shown in this picture to protect the treble panel.
 

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May 17, 2019 at 10:21 AM Post #3,334 of 4,058
I saw the same things on Stax headphones.
somehow I planning to renew them or put some on my other headphones, dynamic and electrostatic.
which zener diodes/diodes to use?

do you have any idea about how to build the female cap/cover for the connection to protect the heaphones from parasitic capacitence?
*or othe issues when you store them after usage.

I can make lot of female connectors from 2 * XLR 3PINS connectors.

thanks.
As I understand you want to protect the headphones from your body electrostatic charge - is this correct? In such case just discharge yourself, by touching the metal cover of your amp, or the floor, or the wall.
On the connector you plan to build you can connect all the pins together and solder a 1M ohm resistor from this common point to some grounding point in your home. This will discharge the phones safely after you unplug them from the amp and plug them to this connector.
Zenner diodes for electrostatic phones should be at least of 650V each (depending on the max peak to peak voltage your amp can provide + at least 20%), otherwise your amp might burn them on max volume. I would not advise to put such zenners - if they blow making short, your amp may blow as well and they will do more harm than good.
Still I think all this is not necessary for headphones.
 
May 17, 2019 at 3:53 PM Post #3,337 of 4,058
@legopart
I think you can store them like that, I can't think of any damage. The bias voltage will transfer to stators and eventually will discharge after some time.
@chinsettawong
Do you know what is the resistance of these? And sorry, I have no idea how these phones look like and from the picture I can't see how they are connected. Each stator to a resistor, then both resistors to each other and then to one grill, or each to a separate grill? And another question - in stax amps - are there couplng capacitors at the outputs - meaning both stators are at 0V with no input signal?
In such case they may serve as grill grounding, since the differential outputs of the amp are out of phase and then the grill will be always at 0V. This way you save additional GND cable from the amp to the grill for protection.
Again, I'm just guessing.
 
May 18, 2019 at 12:38 PM Post #3,339 of 4,058
Looks like 10M ohm 10%
Yeah you are right, well done checking the colors. So in case both are connected to each other and then to the floating grill, I support my guess, it's for setting the grill at 0V and also when you touch it, it will not introduce hum or noise, because it will transfer the signal to both stators with the same polarity.
 
May 24, 2019 at 11:44 AM Post #3,342 of 4,058
The pro bias is set with 580V whereas the normal bias voltage is at 230V.
What the diferent do it makes on the membrane ?
If I made my DIY headpohnes or using some know one.
the voltage only charhe the membrane.
The membrane made of hard to condactive materials (high resistent material).
How high, too much high voltage can make some damage to it?

The membrane is passive element (not a coil or resistor) that influenced from it charge, better charge --> sound better ?
 
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May 24, 2019 at 12:27 PM Post #3,343 of 4,058
What the diferent do it makes on the membrane ?
If I made my DIY headpohnes or using some know one.
the voltage only charhe the membrane.
The membrane made of hard to condactive materials (high resistent material).
How high, too much high voltage can make some damage to it?

The membrane is passive element (not a coil or resistor) that influenced from it charge, better charge --> sound better ?

It's only easier if you try it yourself. :wink:

Well, what is your DIY headphone spacer's thickness? You should know that the thickness and the bias voltage go hand in hand. The pro bias is good for the spacer thickness of around 0.45-0.5 mm and the normal bias spacer thickness is much less. If you were to use the pro bias with normal bias headphones, a few things can happen. The diaphragms can become unstable. They might make noises or could collapse to one of the stators. If not, the sound will sound very loud. And if you are not careful and turn the volume up too much, you can put a burnt hole on the diaphragm.
 
May 25, 2019 at 4:55 AM Post #3,344 of 4,058
I have some update for my phone. I printed fully new enclosure for drivers, because I found out that the previous were little bended. For this I buy 3d printer for myself, so i can print anything anytime, which is great.

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Now it is playing great more than month and half. So I am happy that I achieved this. I think that I will not modificate this headphones anymore. But I will create new one with larger diameter active area and print enclosure with PETG instead of PLA material.

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So the coating still working without problems and since then they are my daily headphones. I also have Stax Lambda Nova, but I really don't like the sound too much. They are too bright and they have much less bass in comparison with my stats.

Anyway, I just started to work on new version of headphones. These will probably have 84mm active area. So there is 15mm difference with previous one.
I bought STAX SRE-725 and I will make from this cable for headphones.
AiBx1bO.png


Now I am choosing pads, do someone use these from ebay? They are Genuine Leather Sheepskin Ear Pads Cushion
Ex8y4k2.png


They have opening dimension 70x50mm. But I also found similar pads but with circle opening with 65mm diameter. Which one is better in your opinion?
 
Jun 5, 2019 at 3:45 PM Post #3,345 of 4,058
So the coating still working without problems and since then they are my daily headphones. I also have Stax Lambda Nova, but I really don't like the sound too much. They are too bright and they have much less bass in comparison with my stats.

Anyway, I just started to work on new version of headphones. These will probably have 84mm active area. So there is 15mm difference with previous one.
I bought STAX SRE-725 and I will make from this cable for headphones.
AiBx1bO.png


Now I am choosing pads, do someone use these from ebay? They are Genuine Leather Sheepskin Ear Pads Cushion
Ex8y4k2.png


They have opening dimension 70x50mm. But I also found similar pads but with circle opening with 65mm diameter. Which one is better in your opinion?
I'm using the circle with 110mm out diameter - replacement for AKG550 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bla...986.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dSUNMUZ They are very comfortable, but do not have different thickness front/back (flat cylinder). I think they have pretty good seal and can't tell any issue (considering they are pretty cheap), except for a very nasty dip at 3Khz, which I'm not sure is coming from them or from my plywood cans resonance. If you could please give the link of yours, I will appreciate. Thanks.
 
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