[kenev]

Hi Wachara,
 
Thank you for your immediate response.
 
That's exactly what I initially thought: that your design must definitely have been through a lot of changes since those early days of 2010.
 
Anyway, I'm going to study the whole story, following the stages of evolution that your design has gone through and I hope that, eventually, I will be able to build something similar.
 
I have noticed that you are still very active in this forum - that's a good sign to go on with this.
 
Regards,
 
Evangelos

 

[-JFK-]

Hi Wachara,

Thank you for your immediate response.

That's exactly what I initially thought: that your design must definitely have been through a lot of changes since those early days of 2010.

Anyway, I'm going to study the whole story, following the stages of evolution that your design has gone through and I hope that, eventually, I will be able to build something similar.

I have noticed that you are still very active in this forum - that's a good sign to go on with this.

Regards,

Evangelos

Hello,

We are there to help.
Copy/past is not fun at all! I suggest you to read, learn and finally made your own design!
We will follow you.
Regards

 

[MuZo2]

There have been really great ideas & designs here.
In iem diy thread some guys went pro & started their own brands, same with orthodynamic headphones, Mrspeakers is great example. Wondering if some of you guys thought about doing same for electroatats?

 

[Muamp]

I have made my version of SR009 stators.
I used 1mm FR4 for the test, since it is just as rigid as aluminiun but easier to work with.
 

 

 
The holes are 1.7mm dia, and the centre is 8mm dia.
I have listened to various music for about an hour with this panel, and my preference still lies with the standard 2mm holes in a full panel layout.
Does anybody know if the Stax "Multi layer etched stator" means that the inner side of the stator is NOT flat.
That is, for example 0.3mm spaced at the edges and 0.6mm at the centre, in the way of a stepped stator....?
 
David.

 

[chinsettawong]

Hi David,
 
I'm very sure that the stators of SR009 are flat.  

 
Wachara C.

 

[Julez]

The stators of the 009 are the flattest Stax has produced so far. Purpose of the multilayer is to have more flat and rigid stators at the same thickness as one layered stators. I have opend a Stax 009 and there where several layers (more on the parts with the reinforcement structure). Very excellent manufacturing process. And it has the smallest holes of all newer Pro headphones that I remember (apart from the Omega as that has a wiremesh as stator).
 
Everything about the 009 shows a lot of love for the detail and the finishing processes make me jealouse because my hohleplates look so diy (not very flat and by far less polished finish). It is by far the most premium manufactured Stax product I have seen (and I have seen every headphone and driver from the inside). Also the rest of the headphone is as good as the inside.
 
Just one ting that annoyed me was that is is not possible to remove the cups from the headband as it is possibe with every other Stax headphone. So taking apart the 009 is just more annoying because of the non removeable cups.

 

[chinsettawong]

Hi Julez,
 
Do you have pictures of inside of SR009?  If you do, please show them to us.
 
Wachara C.

 

[chinsettawong]

For some reasons, I've come to love my JF style headphones more and more.  I find that I'm using them most of the times.

 
I really encourage you guys to try to build a pair.  These are a lot easier to make than the Omega and Orpheus clones because you don't need to make good earpads for them.
 
They even sound pretty good with my SRM252A.
 

 

[Muamp]

Thanks for the great description Julez.
I agree with Wachara C. I too would love to see some photos of the SR009 inners.
Maybe I will stick to my 2mm hole FR4 stators with fleece ear cups for the time being and just do some listening and rest a bit.
Then maybe I will have a go at some JFs..... My only concern with JFs is that since there is no seal in the form of a cup, do you loose some bottom end? I had that problem with my recent On-Ear ESHSs. So much so I removed the foam pads and replaced then with fleece cups.
 
David.

 

[chinsettawong]

Hi David,
 
Yes, you lose just a bit of bottom end.  But, it's not that bad.  With a very big active area and uncover front and back, you gain a bigger sound stage and very natural bass.  The phones with sealed ear pads, the bass sometimes becomes compressed and exaggerated, IMO.  With these headphones, it just sounds more natural.  It's like you're listening to a pair of speakers instead of headphones.  
 
To tension the diaphragm to the just right tension isn't easy though.  You'll need to try and try until you get it just right.
 
Wachara

 

[100VoltTube]

I have been looking at parts to make a pair of float clones with, and after looking at a few threads, I chose to use 3 micron Dupont type C mylar as the diaphragm.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrostatic-Speaker-Membrane-Dupont-Mylar-C-3um-40M-/172275024448?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
Is this the stuff I should use? Also, what are all of you using?
 
On a different note, I've decided to make an Egmont with negative feedback or a TubeCad (in other words: a "how cheap can you make it" amp) to power them until I have the money and experience to make a KGSSHV, KGST, or SR-X plus.

 

[chinsettawong]

Yes, that's the right stuff.

The 3 microns Mylar is what I have been using to build all my headphones with.

 

[Julez]

Yes I have pics of the inside of a 009 driver. But they are not that good. I will have to open the 009 in the next weeks again. Then I try to make better pics. But close-ups with my standard objective are very tricky to do. I hope the next one will be sharper and show more details.
 

 

 

[chinsettawong]

Hi Julez,
 
Thanks for the pictures.  I'm really looking forward to seeing more pictures from you.  
 
By the way, why did you take them apart?

 

[Julez]

I wanted to repair them as they where broken. I had to redo the membranes but the coating has has failed again (gets lower in volume on one side). The antistatic I used (Antistatik 100 mixed with isopropanol) seems to be not stable for longer than a few days. I have even tried Staticide EDP/WP, wich was the only Staticide I could get hold of without paying 300€, but it did not work at all.
 
At the moment even the Antistatik 100 mix does not work and the drivers do not produce any sound (even if they did three months ago). I am now trying to get a working coating (one that works for a much longer period) and are currently experimenting with graphite solutions. The graphite seems to stick better to the membrane (at least it can't be wiped away from the membrane with the finger). But for now I could not get the resistance high enough. And dilluting the graphite solution made it unusable as the coating did not distribute properly. If I can find a working coating I will let you know.