Multi Amp Owners - amp switching device?
Sep 27, 2009 at 9:43 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

omigawsh_lollercoaster

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You have more amps than your source has outputs for.

Do you switch cables to use each amp or do you have some amp hub component to route your source to different amps?

I'll have at least one tube & one SS and my source has one output, hence the question.

beerchug.gif
 
Sep 27, 2009 at 11:11 PM Post #4 of 16
You might also want to chase down a preamp that has a couple of tape loop/record out connections. That will let you choose between several sources and feed that to either headphone amp or even a power amp if you want to run speakers.

I use an older Conrad-Johnson PV2. It has two tape loops, an onboard tubed phono stage (
smily_headphones1.gif
) and connects to a power amp, as well. I found it for $300, and the functionality is worth every cent.
 
Sep 28, 2009 at 12:38 AM Post #6 of 16
OK, let's talk high-end.

If you want the best, no-compromise, RCA switch, 'ya gotta talk to Dr. P! (Lloyd Peppard). I have no idea if he his still in business, but try him!

You want to have an LR1 built for you. Typically it is for switching two or more sources into one amp, but your use case is fine too.

Welcome to Mapletree Audio Design

Or, do what I did, and go the patch panel route. Here you need one with audiophile grade connectors, wire, and solder. The best in the world -- One Visit Media. I cannot say enough good things about these guys.

Actually, you want a "feed thru" enclosure, not a patch panel. Get a half-deep unit, "normaled" -- that means front-to-back straight-thru wiring. Specify top-of-the-line wire, solder, and RCAs -- get 8 RCAs on it, front-and-back, all female.

Wire your stero pair sources (this allows two sources, even though you are using only one now) to the first four RCAs on the back, and wire your two amps to the last four.

Now you never touch the back again -- push it up against the wall -- and you make whatever connections you want on the front. You will need 16 short M-M RCA cables -- go to BlueJeans Cable for these. With the half-depth unit it is easy to steady these by hand if you don't rack 'em, as you make/break connections.

One Visit Media Custom Patch Panels

A switch is easier for sure, but a wired enclosure (which the world views as a patch panel) is way kewl!

See two of mine (I have four, each with 16 patch points: 2 XLR and 2 RCA. I use them top-and-bottom for left/right, but you can just use adjacent pairs for L/R) -- top right in the photo:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_240MzL2EA8w/Sr...with%20IMP.jpg
 
Sep 28, 2009 at 4:25 AM Post #7 of 16
Good info, wavoman, I inquired to Mapletree earlier about the price. The patch panel's an interesting option too.

1904_woman_switchboard_adx.jpg


Quote:

Originally Posted by wavoman /img/forum/go_quote.gif
OK, let's talk high-end.

If you want the best, no-compromise, RCA switch, 'ya gotta talk to Dr. P! (Lloyd Peppard). I have no idea if he his still in business, but try him!

You want to have an LR1 built for you. Typically it is for switching two or more sources into one amp, but your use case is fine too.

Welcome to Mapletree Audio Design

Or, do what I did, and go the patch panel route. Here you need one with audiophile grade connectors, wire, and solder. The best in the world -- One Visit Media. I cannot say enough good things about these guys.

Actually, you want a "feed thru" enclosure, not a patch panel. Get a half-deep unit, "normaled" -- that means front-to-back straight-thru wiring. Specify top-of-the-line wire, solder, and RCAs -- get 8 RCAs on it, front-and-back, all female.

Wire your stero pair sources (this allows two sources, even though you are using only one now) to the first four RCAs on the back, and wire your two amps to the last four.

Now you never touch the back again -- push it up against the wall -- and you make whatever connections you want on the front. You will need 16 short M-M RCA cables -- go to BlueJeans Cable for these. With the half-depth unit it is easy to steady these by hand if you don't rack 'em, as you make/break connections.

One Visit Media Custom Patch Panels

A switch is easier for sure, but a wired enclosure (which the world views as a patch panel) is way kewl!

See two of mine (I have four, each with 16 patch points: 2 XLR and 2 RCA. I use them top-and-bottom for left/right, but you can just use adjacent pairs for L/R) -- top right in the photo:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_240MzL2EA8w/Sr...with%20IMP.jpg



 
Sep 28, 2009 at 5:03 AM Post #8 of 16
Alright, an old-school patch panel is seriously cool.

I might just have to put one of those together some day... I've got about a dozen amps in various states of completion (damned office and late nights) and, oh, about ten sources. Not to mention a couple of speaker amps and a few pairs of speakers.

I had been thinking about a master preamp with several switches to connect everything.

But a patch panel would be so much cooler. Thanks! Great idea!
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Sep 29, 2009 at 2:10 AM Post #9 of 16
I think a "normaled, wired-enclosure" (back-to-front straight thru) is the best bet for the home rig that is fully installed. You wire your gear only to the back, and screw around only with the front.

One Visit Media is the best!

I have some non-OVM normaled panels (by Hosa) that I might sell -- they are XLR. Still in the original box. Was going to use them before I discovered OVM.
 
Sep 29, 2009 at 3:50 PM Post #10 of 16
I'm in the queue at Dr Lloyd's for a 2/4 LR1.

I'll probably just have 2 amps for a while though.
Might it be better to use a DAC with two outputs like this:
417_2.jpg


Is that considered a pretty good DAC? PS Audio - Digital Link III DAC : More Info

My CDP has a 'Wolfson Microelectronics WMA8740 24-bit/192kHz DAC' so would adding that DAC or another (better) DAC help much?

EDIT: And by adding the DAC I'd really be switching DACs because I'd be going digital to the outboard DAC so not going through the Wolfson (I assume).

So many options, so clueless.
confused_face(1).gif
 
Sep 30, 2009 at 2:02 AM Post #11 of 16
It's a fine DAC, but so is the one in your CDP. OK, the PS Audio is considered better, no question, but not a lot of people can hear differences in DACS on many CDs (or so the tests in the magazines say).

You are correct in your description of the cabling -- you would be bypassing the DAC in your CDP, using a digital S/PDIF cable to connect to the DAC. You need a true 75 ohm cable (labeled Digital, or Video ... usually yellow connectors).

The DAC you picture, like many, has both Balanced and Unbalanced outputs, and both are most likely active at the same time. Unless you want to use both amps at the same time, a switch is a better fit, and you ordered a great one!

Unless you have top headphones, you will get more bang for the buck IMHO by spending your money on more music or more (better) headphones as opposed to a DAC at this point.

You can upgrade to an outboard DAC later ... they are essential if a computer (without a special soundcard) is your source, but less so with a good CDP.

We would need full details on your system and listening habits to be 100% sure of what we just wrote, but I am following well-reasoned principles that many here hold to in giving you that advice.
 
Sep 30, 2009 at 3:13 AM Post #12 of 16
What gets done about amps who can't tolerate being unloaded? My plan was to design/build a box with a few resistive loads of variable resistance ratings. This plan was scrapped when I realized there will be a finite amount of time where the amps in transistion will see an open load. Using a "make before break" switch didn't seem like a viable option either as it will short the outputs of two amps together for a very short amount of time. Since all of my amps can handle an open load, I've never experienced the thermal runaway some of the more demanding amplifiers go through.
 
Sep 30, 2009 at 6:14 AM Post #13 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by wavoman /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It's a fine DAC, but so is the one in your CDP. OK, the PS Audio is considered better, no question, but not a lot of people can hear differences in DACS on many CDs (or so the tests in the magazines say).


I've been reading reviews here and googled for a while today and they're pretty much rave ... http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f7/ps-...nk-iii-290761/
Quote:

You are correct in your description of the cabling -- you would be bypassing the DAC in your CDP, using a digital S/PDIF cable to connect to the DAC. You need a true 75 ohm cable (labeled Digital, or Video ... usually yellow connectors).


So not the 110 ohm one then? I knew it was 75 but I saw a 110 nearby and wondered if it's better or if it's just for something else.

Quote:

The DAC you picture, like many, has both Balanced and Unbalanced outputs, and both are most likely active at the same time. Unless you want to use both amps at the same time, a switch is a better fit, and you ordered a great one!


They're 'live' but not really 'active' unless the other end of the line is open by being on right? I'd just be turning one amp on at a time and I'd have an upgrade in the path rather than a switch and extra cables, is what I'm thinking.

Quote:

Unless you have top headphones, you will get more bang for the buck IMHO by spending your money on more music or more (better) headphones as opposed to a DAC at this point.


I have HD800s and I like them so I don't need more headphones and I already have stacks of CDs to last for years.

Quote:

You can upgrade to an outboard DAC later ... they are essential if a computer (without a special soundcard) is your source, but less so with a good CDP.


My CDP is well reviewed but it's about as entry level as it gets, making my source possibly the weaker end in my system. My dream source is the Emm Labs XDS1 but that's not happening for a while unless an unexpected boon comes my way.

Quote:

We would need full details on your system and listening habits to be 100% sure of what we just wrote, but I am following well-reasoned principles that many here hold to in giving you that advice.


Source: Onkyo DX7555 Audiophile Single Disc CD Player
Amp 1: RSA B52
Amp 2: SPL Phonitor
Current best headphone CD: Colourform by Higher Intelligence Agency
Big fan of Johann Sebastian Bach as well.

I'm thinking the NEW DLIII + Stage IV Modification could be a nice little enhancement, I've been reading glowing reviews on it all day which is what I've based all my audio selections on thus far. I'm giving it a try!

THANKS wavoman, I value your input and appreciate your taking the time to help a n00b, I'm still thinking about that Tube Imp too!

beerchug.gif
 
Oct 1, 2009 at 12:20 AM Post #14 of 16
You have great stuff!

110 Ohm is for AES/BEU digital cables, usually terminated with XLR.

75 Ohm is for S/PDIF digital cables, terminated with RCA.

Indeed, if you haven't already ordered the switch and cables, then your plan to use both outputs of the DAC, driving an amp from each -- one balanced, one s.e. -- will work great. And if you get a second set of HPs for a friend, you both can listen (turn on both amps, and fight for who gets the 800s).

If you got your modded DAC you would never need to upgrade the CDP ... as a transport it will be fine. You will eventually switch to a computer anyway ... rip all your CDs with EAC and your computer is the world's best transport.

A lot of reasons to get that DAC, eh? I'm just saying you might not hear a huge improvement in SQ, but with your amps and the 800s you are certainly in position to hear any improvement!
 

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