Monolith M1060C Closed Back Planar Headphones impressions
Feb 21, 2020 at 2:39 PM Post #976 of 1,409
The M1060 v2 is lighter than the m1060c and with the right mods (front shelf liner, rear shelf liner, remove rear acoustic damping), it sort of surpasses or at least equals the M1060c. Look at attached pictures. The M1060 unmodded has more treble energy than the m1060c so you can tone the treble down using the damping mods. The bass on the m1060v2 goes up after removing the rear foam. After these mods, you have the m1060v2 having somewhat similar bass quality (quantity and texture) to the m1060c. The treble on the m1060v2 is better than the m1060c.
I don't know of a way to increase the treble on the m1060c so if you have a m1060v2 i would say keep it.

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Looks like you used the Fuzzor mode on the front and rear of the driver? Do you get as much help from covering the rear as you do the side between the baffle and the ear?
 
Feb 21, 2020 at 2:57 PM Post #977 of 1,409
Looks like you used the Fuzzor mode on the front and rear of the driver? Do you get as much help from covering the rear as you do the side between the baffle and the ear?
From my experience, the front side damping (i used a 1mm thick adhesive foam tape), helps damp the treble. This lowers the treble level. i never heard the 5k ringing on my unit (even using a test sine sweep) so I cannot tell you for sure if this mod fixes the 5k ringing if your unit has it. So, the front mod lowers the treble and potentially also cleans up treble quality because it reduces high frequency reflections between the front side of the driver and your ear. Now, the rear mod is more subtle but just as interesting, it reduces reflection of the high frequency energy between the grill and the rear of the driver. Perhaps also the vibration of the rear of the driver as well. The effect of the damping is absolutely obvious. It gives the headphone a sort of black background and improves the treble quality without reducing the quantity. I imagine these results will depend on the material and thickness of the damping you pick but my suggestion is to absolutely do the entire back of the drivers since that did not seem to have a dramatic effect on treble quantity. Once that is done gradually add strips to the front of the driver till the treble level is where you want it to be. If you are sure you have the 5k ringing (check with a sine sweep), you can verify that the front damping fixes the ringing.
 
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Feb 25, 2020 at 10:57 AM Post #978 of 1,409
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These two. These two are way way too much a like. Even comfort was so good on heavier M1060c that I even mixed these two three times when listening music and gaming. Maybe CX had a bit more soundstage and a bit less boom on bass but it punches as good. Maybe a bit more mids on M1060c but I only noticed on R6S Siege match when comparing during gameplay.

I think I'll get rid off of my HD58X, 770 Pro 80ohm. I don't like them as much, but these two are keepers. Maybe. I wanted a bit different closed and open headphones but damn was I surprised about the similarity.
 
Feb 25, 2020 at 11:26 AM Post #979 of 1,409
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These two. These two are way way too much a like. Even comfort was so good on heavier M1060c that I even mixed these two three times when listening music and gaming. Maybe CX had a bit more soundstage and a bit less boom on bass but it punches as good. Maybe a bit more mids on M1060c but I only noticed on R6S Siege match when comparing during gameplay.

I think I'll get rid off of my HD58X, 770 Pro 80ohm. I don't like them as much, but these two are keepers. Maybe. I wanted a bit different closed and open headphones but damn was I surprised about the similarity.
How do these compare in the upper mids and treble ?
 
Feb 25, 2020 at 12:15 PM Post #980 of 1,409
My mods, including pads, inner fazor adapters that makes pads go furter than original, outer fazor and a bit reflecting cups makes sometimes mids a bit more forward. Treble is about the same. Ether's have better separation and presentation but tonality seems to be pretty same; and the mids sometimes feels a bit more forward on M1060c's.

Ethers has black felts and ZMF oval lambskin pads.

Both are balanced with Monolith THX AAA desktop.
 
Feb 26, 2020 at 6:48 PM Post #981 of 1,409
I created a quick swappable system for the Monolith M1060C headphones. I'm sure it would work on other headphones that utilize glue instead of mounts.

To make this happen I utilized an AirStick by Sewell sheet. I bought the 0.5mm, 250mm x 300mm sheet on Amazon. https://tinyurl.com/vnjqg4n

One side of the sheet is a reusable/washable and it will stick to any flat clean flat smooth surface very well. The other side is your standard adhesive backing. The sheet is like a very thin rubber and it very flexible. The Airstick side only needs a wet paper towel/lint free cloth to clean it from dust. This is similar to those sticky pads you place in your car and it holds your cell phone from sliding around on your dash. You can see in the last photo how the pads stick to the side of the Dekoni pads box.

First I removed the stock pads as carefully as I could as to not damage the fabric liner. I ended up using a little hot glue to readhere it to the pads in a few spots. Press down on a hard flat surface (padding side up) to ensure any hot glue you use spreads and thins well.

Next up I cleaned the area around the driver with a Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol 70%. Next up I cut circles that were the size I wanted, then after measuring the driver opening size, I traced that size onto the circles. **A thing to note is that the Dekoni's are slightly larger than the stock pads, and you will need to make the circles smaller for them otherwise you'll have the double sided tape from the Dekoni's being exposed.**

I pressed down hard on a flat surface to ensure good adhesive contact for all the permanent adhesive areas.

After placing the pads onto the headphones, just go around once, squeezing them in place.

This works really well, as I can hold onto just a single pad and let the whole headphone hang without it even starting to peel off. The great thing about this material is that is creates an airtight seal. If you want to preserve your bass, this is great.

I hope this helps someone else out there.

As for the ugly piece of memory foam attached to my M1060C's, that's just a place holder until I have time to make a permanent cushion. I have a large sheet of pleather I've used for other headphone pad modding, along with an old chopped up memory foam pillow for the same purposes. I'll post pictures when it's done. The foam makes the headphone SUPER comfy for my big head. That combined with the Dekoni pads makes this thing extremely comfortable.

Sound differences? The bass is more pronounced with the stock pads. This system let me swap back and forth easily enough. It's really only noticeable when you are listening to low volumes, as when I had it to where I wanted to rock out, I didn't notice a difference.

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I have an addition to this mod in case you have a pair of pads that do not have a hard backing like the Dekoni pads. Second Post Here
 
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Feb 26, 2020 at 9:10 PM Post #982 of 1,409
I created a quick swappable system for the Monolith M1060C headphones. I'm sure it would work on other headphones that utilize glue instead of mounts.

To make this happen I utilized an AirStick by Sewell sheet. I bought the 0.5mm, 250mm x 300mm sheet on Amazon. https://tinyurl.com/vnjqg4n

One side of the sheet is a reusable/washable and it will stick to any flat clean flat smooth surface very well. The other side is your standard adhesive backing. The sheet is like a very thin rubber and it very flexible. The Airstick side only needs a wet paper towel/lint free cloth to clean it from dust. This is similar to those sticky pads you place in your car and it holds your cell phone from sliding around on your dash. You can see in the last photo how the pads stick to the side of the Dekoni pads box.

First I removed the stock pads as carefully as I could as to not damage the fabric liner. I ended up using a little hot glue to readhere it to the pads in a few spots. Press down on a hard flat surface (padding side up) to ensure any hot glue you use spreads and thins well.

Next up I cleaned the area around the driver with a Q-Tip and rubbing alcohol 70%. Next up I cut circles that were the size I wanted, then after measuring the driver opening size, I traced that size onto the circles. **A thing to note is that the Dekoni's are slightly larger than the stock pads, and you will need to make the circles larger for them otherwise you'll have the double sided tape from the Dekoni's being exposed.**

I pressed down hard on a flat surface to ensure good adhesive contact for all the permanent adhesive areas.

After placing the pads onto the headphones, just go around once, squeezing them in place.

This works really well, as I can hold onto just a single pad and let the whole headphone hang without it even starting to peel off. The great thing about this material is that is creates an airtight seal. If you want to preserve your bass, this is great.

I hope this helps someone else out there.

As for the ugly piece of memory foam attached to my M1060C's, that's just a place holder until I have time to make a permanent cushion. I have a large sheet of pleather I've used for other headphone pad modding, along with an old chopped up memory foam pillow for the same purposes. I'll post pictures when it's done. The foam makes the headphone SUPER comfy for my big head. That combined with the Dekoni pads makes this thing extremely comfortable.

Sound differences? The bass is more pronounced with the stock pads. This system let me swap back and forth easily enough. It's really only noticeable when you are listening to low volumes, as when I had it to where I wanted to rock out, I didn't notice a difference.

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I like the idea of applying that mod. Having had the 1060s last year, I'm considering getting those or the 1060c and doing a bit of modding. Might do this to them! Thanks for sharing.
 
Mar 12, 2020 at 6:24 PM Post #984 of 1,409
Guys, need help with attaching both 3D printed grills and pad adapters. I am screwed (pun intended).

So, the thing is that the original screws are too short. Which type and size of screws should I be looking for?

The pad adapters use M2.5, if I have understood correctly. Original screws are maybe 10 or 12 mm long so I need longer ones (16?). How about the tiny screws on the grill side? What are those called?
 
Mar 12, 2020 at 9:03 PM Post #985 of 1,409
Yah they are 14 to 16mm for pad adapters. Screws for grills are m2 8mm long
 
Mar 23, 2020 at 3:23 PM Post #986 of 1,409
Deleted due to some very substantial prices rising on monoprice.eu.
(Good recommendations can potentially lead to do more business, make more money. By rising prices significantly, they do not need free recommendation anymore to make more money).
 
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Mar 25, 2020 at 3:39 PM Post #988 of 1,409
still love my modded m1060c, my everyday goto cans. Fazors and new pads did wonders for them.
 
Mar 26, 2020 at 1:51 PM Post #989 of 1,409
I see the m1060c is 218 on monolith official site. I read its got Qc issues (which I honestly haven't usually cared about till a recent experience with an iem where I spent almost it's price on shipping costs to replace!) so from your experience is it worth the risk or just forget about it and save a little more for something say like the argon?
 
Mar 26, 2020 at 2:41 PM Post #990 of 1,409
They have fixed what issues I have seen and heard of with silent revisions.
 

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