[TheLaw]

So,
 
I have a cheap piece of crap Logitech 2.1 setup for my computer. Don't hate on it please. It cost me $30 and for the most part, it does well. However, I was wondering if there are any general amp mods that I can do...?
 
I have heard that increasing the capacitance on some of the capacitors should give it better response during peak output...Along those lines....
 
Are there any things that can be done to increase the amp that would have some benefit?
 
I'm also considering replacing the sub itself with a cheap HiVi/Swan woofer.
 
 
Thanks.

 

[TheLaw]

Anyone?

 

[TheLaw]

Bump 

 

[Avro_Arrow]

Model #s, Pictures...
 
You didn't give us much to work with...

 

[googleborg]

i've thought about using a cheapo 2.1 sub on my tape outs to give my hifi a bit more bass...perhaps even hack it up and create my own subwoofer!
 
i've got both the s220 and x-210, and they are both very cheap and cheerful, good units, not sure there's anything you can do to make them better that's worth the cost though, perhaps replacing the filter caps but these units are built to cost, upping the capacitance = too much inrush current and these things will likely melt, the volume pot in the control pods are the cheapest you can possibly get, but adequate considering the quality of the satellites.
 
i can't think of upgrading any one thing that won't be rendered useless by all the other bottom-barrel components.

 

[TheLaw]

Sorry for being so ignorant about this. I decided I would take apart the powered sub...Easier said than done. I wound up destroying the box....Of course, I didn't harm anything else, but I guess I'll have to be building me a new sub box sometime...
 
Anyway, the model number is Z313. It cost me $30 on sale....Does the job mostly.
 
Not sure how huge these pics are going to be, but here it goes....As you can see, really cheap stuff on board. It's not like they really have a choice....for the price they want to sell at. I think I'm going to replace value for value on the electrolytic caps with a higher quality alternative. I might see if I can get a better sub. Again, it was cheap, so I don't really mind messing with it too much. 
 
Oh and yes, the inline volume adjuster absolutley sucks. How should I fix that? It cracks and I have to fine tune it to get both satellites working at the same time...Pretty annoying
 
Caps by Chang, CapXon and Samxon. All general purpose as far as I can discern.  Pretty crappy....Note the LOVELY rectifier circuit.
 
The heat sink for this thing has about as much potential as a piece of aluminum foil.
 
Too much inrush current....Hmmm....Bigger heatsink to cover that?
 
It has a massive transformer by the way. Don't know the actually output spec, but I think it would have to be fairly decent. Probably either @ 16V or 25V.
 

 

 

[TheLaw]

So this might sound absolutley stupid, but what if I just literally use the PCB and nothing else, replace EVERYTHING on board. Resistors, jacks, wires.....There's no guessing work involved. Just drop in a higher quality part in place for the crap parts.
 
I think for now, higher quality capacitors would be most useful.

 

[TheLaw]

So I grew impatient with myself....I ordered about 25 replacement caps off Mouser. Main input power cap is a Nichicon Muse KW. The rest are a combination of Panasonic FMs, Nichicon Muse FGs, and Nichicon Muse KWs. All are exact replacements. One or two may have different voltage rating, but otherwise same capacitances. 
 
I also purchased a Switchcraft 1/8in audio jack to replace the POS that is currently in the amp.
 
Additionally, I bought 4 new rectifier diodes. They were cheap, so it doesn't matter if I don't use them...but I want to replace the 3A diodes with 5A diodes for several reasons.
 
Lastly, I bought 2 big heatsinks for the amplifiers themselves. Might be able to push a little more out of them without melting them. But I could be making up things.
 
Total cost was $18. I think it may be worth it in the end. I'm mostly doing it for the fun though, so don't get too critical about it.
 
Hopefully it works. I still need to scrounge around for some decent pieces of MDF to make the new box...and then get the router out...Oh my....

 

[TheLaw]

Would it make any difference if I used a thicker guage wire from the amp board to the subwoofer itself? As in, the actual signal wire to the subwoofer....I think it's about 20AWG right now. If I used something bigger, would that be good? What guage? I'd expect solid wire for less resistance....?

 

[TheLaw]

Bump

 

[civilmonkey]

I think a lot of people around here have a primary focus on headphone amplifiers, usb dacs, etc, and the design of lower current applications may not transfer over 100% to sub amplifiers.  You could try googling 'gainclone'.  It's a solid state speaker amp using a LM3875 or similar chip that is often built point 2 point, and some who build it swear by it.  If you can find the forums dedicated to gainclones, you may be able to get some more answers re sub amps over there.  good luck!

 

[TheLaw]

Ah thanks. I was just mainly curious as to ideas on general component selection. But I'll give it a try somewhere else.

 

[nullstring]

Errrrr...
 
I think you're going out this the wrong way..
 
It would be much more worth while to build a seperate gainclone or T-amp
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/
 
and then get something like this
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-652
 
Or build your own speakers and sub...
 
Whats your end budget?

 

[nikongod]

bump.

 

[nikongod]

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