[Illah]

So in reading on power cords it seems the greater the power pull, the better the benefit from a fatter cord. My Marantz SR7200 receiver does over 500W for DVDs but it only has a skinny two prong cord.

Since there's a $25 minimum at Carleton-Bates for Volex cords I orderd five of them when I really only need three. I'd like to put one on my receiver somehow but I'm not sure how to mod this in. The two prong cord isn't removable, it's a built-in type cord.

Thanks,

--Illah

 

[Teerawit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Illah So in reading on power cords it seems the greater the power pull, the better the benefit from a fatter cord. My Marantz SR7200 receiver does over 500W for DVDs but it only has a skinny two prong cord. Since there's a $25 minimum at Carleton-Bates for Volex cords I orderd five of them when I really only need three. I'd like to put one on my receiver somehow but I'm not sure how to mod this in. The two prong cord isn't removable, it's a built-in type cord. Thanks, --Illah

You'd have to do some modding -- open up the receiver, desolder the old power cord, resolder in some new wires and install them to a new IEC inlet, and install the IEC inlet to the chassis (ie. drill a hole in the case).

 

[Jeff Wong]

I modded both a Sansui tuner and Aiwa cassette deck with IEC jacks so I could use aftermarket cords on them. At the time, I didn't have a Dremel tool. A Dremel tool will make a better fit... just be mindful of all the metal dust getting everywhere. In a way, a nibbling tool might be better to avoid the metal dust. Just be careful cleaning up. After I clipped the cord on the outside of the unit, I removed the strain relief. Clipping the cord from the outside ensures you leave yourself enough wire to solder to your jack. I traced out the shape of the jack onto the chassis... make sure you trace the smaller part, so that the lip of the jack stays on the inside of the chassis and only the raised part of the jack comes through the hole. I stuck my nibbling tool (available at Radio Shack) in the hole from the old captive power cord and began to slowly clip out rectangular bits of metal, sticking closely to the outline. I drilled small holes to correspond with those on the jack and mounted the jack using small bolts, washers, and nuts. I clipped the 2 wire cord to length and soldered the 2 wires to the jack. I then soldered a spade to a green wire I had and soldered the other end of that to the ground of the jack and connected the spade end to the chassis. Done.

 

[Pars]

I used a drill and a nibbler on my Rotel RCD-855 for adding an IEC. I did not retain any of the stock cord, but used a piece of Belden 19364 14ga shielded 3 conductor to wire from the switch/etc. to the IEC inside the player. I terminated the shielding/drain wire on the IEC but left it open at the other end (telescoping shield).

Plan your placement of the IEC carefully. The nibbler worked great, very little filing required. Be sure to clean the insides out well by blowing it out and/or vacuuming.

 

[Jeff Wong]

If I had to do it over again, I'd use some better wire... but my feeling at the time was "It's just a tuner and cassette deck... I can leave the inch of original cord instead or rewiring the transformer..." which is actually counter to my anal retentive tweaker ways.

 

[Illah]

What if I were to just clip the female end of the power cord and solder directly to the receiver board? Could I then just attach the ground wire to the chassis somewhere and be set?

Thanks!

--Illah

 

[bhd812]

can this help or no?

http://www.amusicdirect.com/products...p?sku=AICECUBE

 

[Teerawit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhd812 can this help or no? http://www.amusicdirect.com/products...p?sku=AICECUBE

I don't think that will work, because the the power cord is attached to the receiver and cannot be removed unless desoldered.

 

[kontai69]

I've seen an adapter online that has a IEC socket on one end and screw terminals on the other which connects to the cut ends of a non-removable power cord from your component. This precludes the need to cut the case and install an integrated IEC socket. Unfortunately, I can't remember where I saw it.

 

[Ebonyks]

Quote:

I've seen an adapter online that has a IEC socket on one end and screw terminals on the other which connects to the cut ends of a non-removable power cord from your component. This precludes the need to cut the case and install an integrated IEC socket. Unfortunately, I can't remember where I saw it.

Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of using an upgraded cable in the first place? The amount of resistance in a connection is greatest at solder points, and it's for that reason i'm really not too keen on the whole IEC system in general.

But, if you want to add an IEC jack to your reciever, it would require you to open the internals, somehow cut a properly sized hole for the plug (I'd reccomend using a dremel), and soldering the power cord to that.

 

[djbnh]

Consider talking with Chris VenHaus of VH Audio - he sells DIY and pre-made gear, and is a very approachable gentleman. Here's his product page on IEC's - go near the very bottom of the page to see the Furutech IEC inlets (both 15A and 20A). He's got the 15A in Rhodium or Gold; here's a link to the sizing template. And lastly, here's a link to some of his DIY recipes, can't say I scanned it for info about your proposed project, but maybe I should because I'm considering something similar for a vintage NAD amp.

 

[Illah]

So I'm going to open up the receiver this weekend and just try and solder in the Volex cord. I'll just cut the female and off and strip the wires. That removes the extra cost and effort of soldering in a male IEC jack to hook up the cord. Just to confirm - the ground can go anywhere on the chassis correct? Is there a 'best' place for it?

Hopefully the fat cord fits throught the current skinny cord hole with minimal effort

--Illah

 

[Illah]

Two more quick questions so I don't kill my equipment

1. I want to use the fifth extra cord on my subwoofer, a Dayton 'Tiny Mighty' 100W 10" sub. It also uses the two-prong style cord and it's not detachable. While modding in an IEC shouldn't be a problem, where should I put the ground wire?

2. Since AC alternates is it critical to attach the two non-ground prongs in specific places? If so how I do I know where the left prong or right prong goes?

Again, I plan to directly solder the cords into the equipment rather than install an IEC jack.

Thanks,

--Illah

 

[AlanY]

If you're Earth grounding multiple pieces of gear that weren't Earth-grounded previously, you may end up with ground loops. I personally wouldn't connect the Earth ground to gear that wasn't designed for it (i.e. gear that came with a two-conductor polarized power cord). Just leave it floating.

The narrow prong on a two-conductor power cord and outlet is the hot wire; the wide one is neutral. Don't swap these when you connect the new power cord.

Another thing: you need to be absolutely certain that the new cord is physically attached to the chassis in some way, not just at the solder points. Solder points can be brittle and you don't want someone tugging on the power cord to pull one of the solder points loose.

 

[Illah]

Cool - makes life even easier to just leave off the ground

And yeah, the current 'skinny cord' hole is pretty small so I'll just get that big enough to get the fat cord in there and then hot glue it in place. Who knows, once I start working on it I'll prob come up with a better method for strain releif.

Thanks!

--Illah