[goldwerger]

The allmighty Feliks Envy Anniversary Edition in my case.

Nice!

The one amp I couldn’t get to demo last weekend as it was always busy, but heard great things. Congrats..

 

[vcd23]

Amen



It's a ZMF / Cayin / @L0rdGwyn collab - expected to be available in a couple of months, not sure exact date, but imminent. It will be sold by ZMF, so you can buy directly from them when it goes on their website

thank you! does this amp pair well wit low impedance as well?

 

[goldwerger]

thank you! does this amp pair well wit low impedance as well?

Oh yes. It’s transformer coupled with impedance selector. Note that there is a commercial build coming up from ZMF (built by Cayon, with L0rdGwyn’s design) in a few weeks. I demo-ed it at CanJam and it’s very similar to the DIY version I have.

Pairs very with Caldera, and is a very good all-rounder amp. The symmetrical build will be about 3.5k (3.2k launch price I think)

 

[Slackaveli]

Oh yes. It’s transformer coupled with impedance selector. Note that there is a commercial build coming up from ZMF (built by Cayon, with L0rdGwyn’s design) in a few weeks. I demo-ed it at CanJam and it’s very similar to the DIY version I have.

Pairs very with Caldera, and is a very good all-rounder amp. The symmetrical build will be about 3.5k (3.2k launch price I think)

same price as Caldera

True Symmetry

 

[Melineous]

So, I'm having quite the night with Tungsten. I hate to write a post like this, but I noticed some rattling from the left ear cup when I was putting the headphone on earlier. Upon taking the ear pad off and tapping around the ear cup I found the source of the rattling. The baffle was visibly moving. Every single screw was loose in the baffle to the point I could turn them with the tips of my fingers. No tools required. I got some tools out and disassembled the ear cup to get to the nuts on the back side of the driver and re-tightened every screw to what I would consider appropriate. I then played some music in mono audio. Vocals and bass shifted to the side I'd fixed. Using a test tone generator frequencies <1khz were shifted to the side I'd fixed. I fixed the other side then ran the same tests again and everything re-centered in the soundstage. It appears I've lost some soundstage width, but the entire FR has been shifted clockwise, and Tungsten sounds a lot warmer now. For those that have Tungsten and think it sounds a little thin check your baffle. If you're brave try seeing if you can tighten the screws. I hate to make a post that sounds like build quality bashing, but the headphone is at least easy to disassemble and readjust unlike some others out there, and with it making such a noticeable change in sound I figured I should share this. Also, I only did this about an hour ago so if you wanna call it flawed testing or whatever that's fine. I'm not loosening the screws again to retest it.

 

[dudeX]

So, I'm having quite the night with Tungsten. I hate to write a post like this, but I noticed some rattling from the left ear cup when I was putting the headphone on earlier. Upon taking the ear pad off and tapping around the ear cup I found the source of the rattling. The baffle was visibly moving. Every single screw was loose in the baffle to the point I could turn them with the tips of my fingers. No tools required. I got some tools out and disassembled the ear cup to get to the nuts on the back side of the driver and re-tightened every screw to what I would consider appropriate. I then played some music in mono audio. Vocals and bass shifted to the side I'd fixed. Using a test tone generator frequencies <1khz were shifted to the side I'd fixed. I fixed the other side then ran the same tests again and everything re-centered in the soundstage. It appears I've lost some soundstage width, but the entire FR has been shifted clockwise, and Tungsten sounds a lot warmer now. For those that have Tungsten and think it sounds a little thin check your baffle. If you're brave try seeing if you can tighten the screws. I hate to make a post that sounds like build quality bashing, but the headphone is at least easy to disassemble and readjust unlike some others out there, and with it making such a noticeable change in sound I figured I should share this. Also, I only did this about an hour ago so if you wanna call it flawed testing or whatever that's fine. I'm not loosening the screws again to retest it.

I’ll let Ryan know about your experience. He will probably contact you.

If anyone changes pads or takes them off to look at them, make sure you press the ear pads well against the cup so that there’s no loose gaps. It can affect sound quality with rattling.

 

[Slackaveli]

As long as it is rebalanced i wouldnt fux with it anymore.

 

[Melineous]

As long as it is rebalanced i wouldnt fux with it anymore.

In listening to Tungsten when I got it I really thought the tuning was well balanced it was just tilted in a way that made it too analytical. It now sounds how I was expecting it to. I'm just glad I've kept it because I'm definitely not getting rid of it now lol.

 

[Slackaveli]

In listening to Tungsten when I got it I really thought the tuning was well balanced it was just tilted in a way that made it too analytical. It now sounds how I was expecting it to. I'm just glad I've kept it because I'm definitely not getting rid of it now lol.

I'm glad you posted about it. We can "screw tune mod" our Tungz now.

 

[psy472]

So, I'm having quite the night with Tungsten. I hate to write a post like this, but I noticed some rattling from the left ear cup when I was putting the headphone on earlier. Upon taking the ear pad off and tapping around the ear cup I found the source of the rattling. The baffle was visibly moving. Every single screw was loose in the baffle to the point I could turn them with the tips of my fingers. No tools required. I got some tools out and disassembled the ear cup to get to the nuts on the back side of the driver and re-tightened every screw to what I would consider appropriate. I then played some music in mono audio. Vocals and bass shifted to the side I'd fixed. Using a test tone generator frequencies <1khz were shifted to the side I'd fixed. I fixed the other side then ran the same tests again and everything re-centered in the soundstage. It appears I've lost some soundstage width, but the entire FR has been shifted clockwise, and Tungsten sounds a lot warmer now. For those that have Tungsten and think it sounds a little thin check your baffle. If you're brave try seeing if you can tighten the screws. I hate to make a post that sounds like build quality bashing, but the headphone is at least easy to disassemble and readjust unlike some others out there, and with it making such a noticeable change in sound I figured I should share this. Also, I only did this about an hour ago so if you wanna call it flawed testing or whatever that's fine. I'm not loosening the screws again to retest it.

I am assuming Ryan is over worked and now has carpal tunnel syndrome from constantly making our cans? His hands are probably shaking and weak from all the hand tightened screws he had to put in. Maybe he needs a vacation right after he finish making mine.

 

[Melineous]

I'm glad you posted about it. We can "screw tune mod" our Tungz now.

I was actually thinking about the crazy O-ring or washer spacing mods people might think of.

 

[Hannu]

I got some tools out and disassembled the ear cup to get to the nuts on the back side of the driver and re-tightened every screw to what I would consider appropriate.

Were the loose screws those seen when removing the pads?
Do you get to the nuts on the back of the driver by removing the grilles?
How much did you have to disassemble?

My tungsten is sounding a little thin (i think) and i have heard some rattling when talking or chewing something (might just be the pads/ring, since i don't hear it when putting the headphones on or when moving my head).
I would like to see if tightening the screws would change anything but i don't want to accidentally break these.

 

[Slackaveli]

Were the loose screws those seen when removing the pads?
Do you get to the nuts on the back of the driver by removing the grilles?
How much did you have to disassemble?

My tungsten is sounding a little thin (i think) and i have heard some rattling when talking or chewing something (might just be the pads/ring, since i don't hear it when putting the headphones on or when moving my head).
I would like to see if tightening the screws would change anything but i don't want to accidentally break these.

Yeah the thought of having them in for service isnt a great one lol.

 

[vcoheda]

Looks like they need to up the QC.

 

[Slackaveli]

ehh
he was probably tired or something but yeah.