What size and voltage of MKPs will be good for bypassing Black Gate's 10uF STD 10uF/50V at the output ? 10 times smaller than 10uF, 20x ,50x or smaller ? Caps dimensions are important because I want to close aluminium case.
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Mini Dac TDA1543 X 4 NOS
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petemac110
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0.1uf or smaller, so this should make things easier regarding the size of the capacitor.
Quote:
0.1uf or smaller, so this should make things easier regarding the size of the capacitor.
Thanks. I've just ordered these for bypassing
http://allegro.pl/mkp-1837-22nf-160v-dc-vishay-dobra-cena-10-sztuk-i1643015641.html
http://allegro.pl/mkp-1837-47nf-100v-dc-vishay-dobra-cena-10-sztuk-i1647207233.html
and this for coupling
http://allegro.pl/mkp1839-10uf-160v-roe-vishay-osiowy-2-sztuki-i1663022437.html
>> Jeep
You know some Lampizator's contructions but what do you think about this Lukasz Fikus test with capacitors
http://www.lampizator.eu/UPGRADE/CAPACITORS/captest1.html
snoopy-u
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is this thing made in china?
ETAHL
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is this thing made in china?
Assemble in China, and some components.
Been listening to it for weeks. Still digging the sound. Very natural, lively and easy to listen to for hours without fatigue. Seem to have a touch of that magic which make tube amps sound great.
I'll posts some pics of additional mods I have made when I get the chance.
]eep
Headphoneus Supremus
>> Jeep
You know some Lampizator's contructions but what do you think about this Lukasz Fikus test with capacitors
http://www.lampizator.eu/UPGRADE/CAPACITORS/captest1.html
First; I know Lukas is an honest guy. So, if he says so I believe him. But you have to take testing conditions into account. And he's not that verbose about the surrounding testequipment.
I've done some R&D profesionally, and the test you come up with aren't allways very telling. You come up with a wrong test, test the wrong things or insignificant things. It is possible he goofed up. I'm not saying he did, but it happens to the best of us.
I know I don't like to kid myself. I don't do selfsuggestion if I can help it. If it sounds the same I will say so. Sometimes I can't hear it, sometimes I don't know what to listen for. And sometimes I don't hear any difference, but there remains a preference (indicative of the latter).
As far as coupling caps in low level signal applications: I definitely hear differences. And not even small ones.
For the pragmatic: in this little Muse I think my option is still the best you can cram inside if you need caps, Ero/Siemens MKT + small Russian PiO. Otherwise just chuck em.
ETAHL
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Some pics of more mods:
Replace each of the output jumpers with two compact film capacitors, 2.2uf 50v. Not as ideal as the jumpers, but they have very little affect on sound quality, and give the DAC the flexibility of not worrying about DC offset at the outputs.
Change the supply caps of the DIR9001 to Sanyo OSCONs.
Added compact tantalum 22uf, 16v caps and upgrade the supply bypass caps to the TDA1543s under the PCB.
Some of the capacitor choices are for compactness, so the PCB will fit back into the original enclosure.
I also mod the wall wart power supply, upgrading the output supply cap from 470uf to 2200uf and added a few film bypass caps. Again, all sized to fit inside the enclosure.
The changes and additions of the caps firm up the bass and slightly better transients.
Awesome DAC. Inexpensive and extremely enjoyable.
Fun modding too.
Replace each of the output jumpers with two compact film capacitors, 2.2uf 50v. Not as ideal as the jumpers, but they have very little affect on sound quality, and give the DAC the flexibility of not worrying about DC offset at the outputs.
Change the supply caps of the DIR9001 to Sanyo OSCONs.
Added compact tantalum 22uf, 16v caps and upgrade the supply bypass caps to the TDA1543s under the PCB.
Some of the capacitor choices are for compactness, so the PCB will fit back into the original enclosure.
I also mod the wall wart power supply, upgrading the output supply cap from 470uf to 2200uf and added a few film bypass caps. Again, all sized to fit inside the enclosure.
The changes and additions of the caps firm up the bass and slightly better transients.
Awesome DAC. Inexpensive and extremely enjoyable.
wushuliu
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Nice. The resistors need to go though, especially the IV, they are crucial. The more of the caps and resistors that are replaced the better is gets... oh, and the IN4004 rectifier...
Modding this DAC has paid off in spades. The more improve it the more three dimensional it becomes...
Modding this DAC has paid off in spades. The more improve it the more three dimensional it becomes...
ETAHL
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Quote:
Nice. The resistors need to go though, especially the IV, they are crucial. The more of the caps and resistors that are replaced the better is gets... oh, and the IN4004 rectifier...
Modding this DAC has paid off in spades. The more improve it the more three dimensional it becomes...
Thanks.
No worries. The through holes are well soldered all the way through. I have to replace one of the I/V resistors. Someone at the factory put in the wrong resistor, a 300 ohm instead of 390 ohm; which made the offset voltage about 6.5 V, not much swing before hitting the supply voltage of 7.5V. That was the reason I was getting clipping with line level digital input. With the correct 390 ohm resistor, the offset voltage is 3.5V; which is close to half of the supply voltage, much more overhead.
The mods are very productive indeed.
pekingduck
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Have had mine for a few days. Sounds great for such a ridiculously low price...
ETAHL
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Have had mine for a few days. Sounds great for such a ridiculously low price...
Guys and gals with LCD-2 should DIY yourself a set of cables with speaker terminal banana plugs. The TA2024/TA2020 T-amp is also one of those ultra ridiculously low price to performance ratio product. No need to spend mega bucks for jaw dropping performance.
Anaxilus
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Has anyone heard this thing in comparison to the 602?
pekingduck
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There are a couple of T-amps on ebay. Can you tell me which one is suitable for the LCD-2?
Quote:
Quote:
Guys and gals with LCD-2 should DIY yourself a set of cables with speaker terminal banana plugs. The TA2024/TA2020 T-amp is also one of those ultra ridiculously low price to performance ratio product. No need to spend mega bucks for jaw dropping performance.T-amp + parts for DIY cable can be had for under $80.
ETAHL
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There are a couple of T-amps on ebay. Can you tell me which one is suitable for the LCD-2?
I like this T-amp. It is well constructed, good parts, speaker protection relay and good potentiometer for easy zeroing of the DC offset. It is also inexpensive.
SMSL SA-36 T-amp :
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170606603437&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Here are the sources of quality cable components, nothing exotic. Also inexpensive.
Audeze LCD-2 connector wiring:
http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Image:Audeze-lcd2-wiring-scheme.png
Mini XLR, female, 4 pin:
http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=1301&bc=no
High quality, 4 conductor cable:
http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=536
Banana plugs:
http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?id=320&bc=no
Happy DIY!
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